Lake Tekapo and Pounamu

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Lake Tekapo

On our final days in New Zealand, we made our way back up the South Island via Tekapo. This little place is about halfway between Queenstown and Christchurch and is known for being an area of low light pollution. If you’ve ever seen the photos of a night full of stars and an old church in the foreground, this is probably the place. 

Coming out of Queenstown, George the bus driver had the greatest sayings. I spent much of the four-hour ride to Tekapo writing down as many of his sayings as possible. I also heard him pronounce Tekapo the way I should have been saying it all along, ”tee-cuh-poo”…flashes of a teeny gray poodle in a pink bone-china teacup cross my mind just about every time I say it.

Regarding the vineyards all around the South Island, George told us about a winery that needed harvesters, so the owner offered a bottle of wine for anyone who came to help harvest, “Just one bottle mind you. And blow me down. He got 90 helpers!” Pinot Noir is found in Central Otago, and Sauvignon Blanc in the Marlborough Region…two favorites. Next time, we’ll do a vineyard tour, maybe help in the harvesting.

Rows of grapevines in a Vineyard in Central Otago, New Zealand
Rows of grapevines in a Central Otago vineyard, New Zealand.

We passed the first bungee jump location near Queenstown, “where you can stretch yer bones,” George said. And nearby, you can pan for gold…another next time!

Our bus broke down on the way to Tekapo. George called for help and we waited. Each bus that passed stopped to see if they could help. One bus took some passengers with a flight to catch in Christchurch. The rest of us sat on the roadside, with our luggage, watching the clouds pass over the beautiful New Zealand land. Our replacement bus came within an hour to drive us into Tekapo.

We checked in to a dated hotel, and made our way over the bridge to see The Church of the Good Shepherd on Lake Tekapo. This 1935 stone church is often photographed with starlight behind. Close by is a monument to the hard-working dogs “without the help of which the grazing of this mountain country would be impossible”. I was surprised to see a Gaelic phrase on the inscription:  Beannachdan Air Na Cu Caorach…Blessings on the sheepdogs.  

The stone Church of the Good Shepherd on the banks of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand
The stone Church of the Good Shepherd on the banks of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.
Monument to the working dogs of the Mackenzie Basin, Tekapo, New Zealand
Monument to the working dogs of the Mackenzie Basin, Tekapo, New Zealand.

We ate a hearty dinner, watched the sunset, and walked awhile before bed. I got up several times in the night to go out and gaze at the stars in a mostly cloudy sky. I had seen photos of the Aurora Australis, the Southern Lights, here…and oh how tight my fingers were crossed every time I stepped out the door that night. But once again, the Polar Lights eluded me. In the hours before dawn, I walked to the Church to see the sunrise. I sat on a boulder and watched the ripples in the water reflecting the pink and orange sky. Such pink, and peace.

A bridge at dawn in Tekapo, New Zealand
The footbridge over Scott Pond at dawn in Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.
The Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo New Zealand, selected for its clear atmosphere, large number of clear sky nights, and relative freedom from light pollution, Mount John University Observatory is located on a small hill to the north. This area has been declared a Dark-Sky Reserve, one of only four in the world.
The Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo New Zealand. Mount John University Observatory is located on a small hill to the north. Selected for its clear atmosphere, high number of clear sky nights, and freedom from light pollution, this area has been declared a Dark-Sky Reserve, one of only four in the world. 

 

 

Pink sunrise on Lake Tekapo, New Zealand
Pink sunrise on Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.

Pounamu

Before leaving Queenstown, I made a touristy purchase at Global Culture—three small plain pieces of New Zealand jade on a leather cord. Jade is called pounamu, or greenstone, in New Zealand. It originates in the rivers of an area in the southwest known as Te Wahipounamu, Māori for “the place of greenstone”. This special area contains four national parks (Aoraki/Mt. Cook, Mt. Aspiring, Fiordland, and Westland) and owns superlatives like: 

  • the largest and least modified area of New Zealand’s natural ecosystem with diverse vegetation that is essentially in pristine condition
  • having the largest and most significant population of forest birds in the country and home to many indigenous animals
  • the area least populated with humans
  • one of the most seismically active regions in the world.

A piece of pounamu binds one to this place.

It is said that greenstone is not found, but reveals itself. That’s a good thing, since greenstone is within nondescript boulders and rocks that are difficult to identify as pounamu without cutting open the host stone. In the river, the stone is always moving. It, like a fish—or us—is on a journey. 

I sat there on a boulder that morning in Tekapo, feeling the greenstones around my neck, smooth and comforting. A few days later, I held my greenstones as the airplane wheels left the ground of New Zealand. Will they miss it here? Will they bring me strength, peace as I roll along? Will they bring me back? I hope so. 

Calm Lake Tekapo, New Zealand
Calm Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.

 

 

In 1935, the builders of the Church were instructed that the site was to be left undisturbed and that even the matagouri bushes surrounding the building were to remain.
In 1935, the builders of the Church were instructed that the site was to be left undisturbed and that even the matagouri bushes surrounding the building were to remain.
Peaceful morning on the shores of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.
Peaceful morning on the shores of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.
Dawn at the Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.Dawn at the Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.
Dawn at the Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.
From the Scott Pond bridge, overlooking the Church of the Good Shepherd and Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.
From the Scott Pond bridge, overlooking the Church of the Good Shepherd and Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.

 

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Next stop…Australia!