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Road Trip: Seattle, the Pacific Ocean, and Portland

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November 12: Roslyn, Washington to Seattle. Starting mileage: 36,363.

Today, we began a three-night whirlwind across the Pacific Northwest. We left Roslyn for one night in Seattle, one night at the Pacific Ocean, and one night in Portland. Despite the overcast skies and the frequent rain squalls, it was not enough time in any one of these places.

Over the Snoqualmie Pass to Seattle

We drove out of Northern Exposure’s Cicely heading west over the Cascade Mountain Range, and passed over Snoqualmie Pass just before a snow storm. First, we would spend a day in Seattle with my step-brother seeing the views from Columbia Center Tower and the Space Needle, riding the Light Rail and Monorail, and catching up over a couple of meals.

snow snoqualmie pass washington
Passing through precipitation in Snoqualmie Pass, Washington. We loved these vistas of water, trees, and the snowy, fog-covered mountains. 
Trees road snow mountains washington snoqualmie pass
Trees hug the road as we passed through Snoqualmie Pass, Washington.
Elliott Bay Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower Seattle Washington
Looking West into Elliott Bay and Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower. Seattle, Washington.
Space needle puget sound columbia Center tower seattle Washington
Looking North at the Space Needle and Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower. Seattle, Washington.
East at I-90's floating bridge across Lake Washington to Mercer Island. From Columbia Center Tower, Seattle, Washington.
Looking East at I-90’s floating bridge across Lake Washington to Mercer Island. From Columbia Center Tower, Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy walking the hills of downtown Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy walking the hills of downtown Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy at the Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
Mama Lucy at the Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
The Space Needle, Seattle, WA
The Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
Neon Monorail sign. Seattle WA
Neon Monorail sign. Seattle WA. Neon looks extra special in this grey, rainy, foggy environment. More NEON Seattle!  More NEON!  🙂
Walrus Arctic Club Seattle Washington
Walruses decorate the Arctic Club Building, in Seattle, Washington. It was built in 1916 for the Arctic Club, a social group for those who gained wealth in Alaska’s Klondike Gold Rush.
Seattle, Washington's Light Rail tunnel
Seattle, Washington’s Light Rail tunnel.

 

November 13: Seattle to Ocean Shores, Washington. Starting mileage: 36,445.

Early the next morning, Mama Lucy and I stopped by Pike’s Place Market for a walk around and a stash of food:  savory potato and cheese pirogies from Piroshky Piroshky, light, fluffy and yummy chocolate croissants from Le Panier, and hot coffee from the very first Starbucks. It’s no wonder Starbucks sprouted in Seattle. Hot coffee tastes extra special in that rainy, foggy environment.

Cargo containers in Seattle, Washington.
Cargo containers lined the side of the interstates around Seattle. Washington. Fascinating to see so many of those cargo ships coming/going from Seattle’s port. Seattle imports furniture parts, aircraft parts, and car parts and exports civilian aircraft, soybeans, and corn. The top three trade partners of Seattle Port are China, Canada, and South Korea (according to USTradeNumbers.com).
Neon inside Pike's Place Market. Seattle, WA.
Neon inside Pike’s Place Market. Seattle, WA. 
Mama Lucy at Public Market / Farmers Market - Pike's Place Seattle, WA.
Mama Lucy at Public Market – Farmers Market – Pike’s Place as the sun tries to come out. Seattle, WA.
Public Market Neon in the Sky at Pike's Place. Seattle, WA
At last, blue skies! Public Market neon sign in a nearly-clear sky at Pike’s Place. Seattle, WA.

 

We left a partly sunny Seattle. Next, we planned to stay an afternoon and night at the Pacific Ocean. I’d researched carefully to find a hotel as close to the ocean as possible so that we could enjoy a walk on the beach and the sounds of the Pacific at night. However, weather reports told us we were driving into a storm.

Ocean Shores and an angry Pacific Ocean

The further west we drove, the darker the skies became. Soon, the wind and the rain came. By the time we reached the northern peninsula separating Gray’s Harbor from the ocean, the wind gusts were punching the car. We marveled at how much the trees lining the road could bend, and drove cautiously past blue signs noting this was a “Tsunami Hazard Area”, and we were on a “Tsunami Evacuation Route”. The Pacific, sometimes visible between houses and forests, was angry, tossing waves high and hard into the shoreline. We pulled in to an empty parking lot at the Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn. The wind nearly blew the door off the car when we got out. Thankfully, we were able to check in early and we tucked in to our cozy room to watch the storm.

Wind swept the grasses; white caps were visible in the fog and mist. This was not a pacified Pacific, but a wide, wild expanse of fury. We sat in our little living room, picnicking on our Pike’s Place market pirogies and croissants. Despite the storm charge in the air, it was a quiet, relaxing afternoon. We read, did laundry, journaled, talked, and daydreamed. We were two of just eighteen guests at the hotel that day. Later, I’d dreamed of waves and flying over mountains like a bird.

Trees and rain, driving from Seattle to Ocean Shores, WA.
Trees and rain, driving into the storm from Seattle to Ocean Shores, WA.
Pouring rain at the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Shores, WA.
Pouring rain at the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Shores, WA.

 

November 14: Ocean Shores, WA to Portland, OR. Starting mileage: 36,596.

Bad road to an angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
Bad road to an angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.

The next morning, the rain seemed to have tapered, but the wind was still raging. Regardless, I walked to the beach to pay respects to the Pacific Ocean…and to thank it for not coming for us during the night. The waves were syncopated, nearly constant and loud. The sand skidded and swirled across the beach. Seagulls sat in forlorn groups near dunes, soaked and caked in muddy sand. I took photos and tried to avoid the sand blasting my eyes and my camera. Sand stung my cheeks, stuck to my hair, and blew into my mouth. The seagulls came closer–one in particular looked like he was asking for help. I wished I’d brought bread. As I took a photo of him with our hotel in the background, the rain returned. There was lightning. I couldn’t hear the thunder for the roar of the Pacific. Turning my back on the wind (but not the ocean!), I pushed my camera into a bag and said “Goodbye” to the Pacific and “Good Luck” to the seagull. I was soaked to the skin by the time I got back to the room.

An angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
An angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
Soaking wet seagull at the Pacific Ocean in Ocean Shores, Washington.
Soaking wet seagull at the Pacific Ocean. Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn in the background. Ocean Shores, Washington.

 

Storm at the Pacific Ocean

Turns out, this windstorm was extremely powerful. Winds were sustained at 30-40 mph and gusted to 60 mph. There was a high surf advisory and “significant beach erosion and wave run-up was possible”. Trees were falling. Power lines were coming down. Heavy rain was coming. We didn’t know all that at the time, and went about packing up and loading out. Mama went down for the luggage cart while I changed into dry clothes. And then, the power went out. A pop, a flicker, then silence.

Oh no, Mama would be in the elevator by now! I grabbed the key and ran out of the room towards the elevator, yelling for her. The place was eerily quiet. I heard no other guests, just the wind whipping the flags and the windows. The hallways were lit only by window light. Doors were closed in places I had not even noticed had doors. The stairwell emergency light was on. Just as I hit the darkened lobby, Mama walked out of the elevator. She’d been stuck in the dark elevator for about two minutes. Thankfully, she’d rung the bell and the receptionist got her out on the ground floor right away. They told us that the power was out because of a lightning strike, and just how bad this storm was. Fortunately, the power was out for only about 30 minutes.

Power outage in the storm at Best Western Lighthouse Suites at Ocean Shores, WA.
Lobby lit by the windows and an emergency lantern during the power outage. Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn at Ocean Shores, WA.

 

On the road to Portland, Oregon

As we drove out of Ocean Shores, we marveled at the raw power of nature, and the fine line this community lived on there next to the powerful Pacific Ocean.

This area of the country has such a fragrant, fresh, stunning beauty because of the trees, mountains, and the rain. However, the logging of trees provides income to the residents. As a result, it is common to see fresh-cut tree logs piled high on semi-trucks, and logs and lumber stacked high at roadside factories. I wondered if the trees along the roads mourned their fallen kin.

Driving from Ocean Shores, Washington to Portland, Oregon
Fresh air and forests line the drive from Ocean Shores, WA to Portland, OR.
Log carrying truck in Oregon Washington Pacific Northwest logging
Alas, this frequent sight, a log-carrying truck in Oregon.
Logging facility in Oregon.
…And, a logging facility in Oregon.
Hairnets for the mountains. Portland, OR.
Hairnets for the mountains. Portland, OR.

 

Finally, we were in Portland for one big reason…to see our friend Tonya and eat at her pizza place, Via Chicago. She makes the pizzas from scratch. If you’re in Portland, you won’t regret stopping by for a tasty Chicago pizza pie.

Tonya Mayhew at Via Chicago. Portland, OR.
Tonya at Via Chicago. Portland, OR.

 

Road Trip: Northern Exposure

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November 10:  Nampa, Idaho to Rosyln, Washington. Starting mileage: 35,946.

We trekked across the northeastern corner of Oregon and north into Washington in a misty fog and rainy snow. We passed Christmas tree farms, wind turbines, signs warning of “Severe Sidewinds Ahead”, and so many trucks carrying logs. This is the Great Pacific Northwest or Cascadia–an area known for environmentalism, coffee drinking, grunge music, and weather-induced depression.

We were headed for a mythical town:  Cicely, Alaska from Northern Exposure.

In real life, the town is called Roslyn, Washington and it is where the TV series, Northern Exposure, was filmed from 1990-1995. The program was quirky, intelligent, kind, funny, full of special people with astute observations, and had so many wise and magical moments. There was Chris Stevens broadcasting from KBHR, Holling Vincouer and Shelly Tambo at the Brick, Indian filmmaker Ed Chigliak, out-of-place New Yorker Dr. Joel Fleishmann, pilot Maggie O’Connell, retired astronaut Maurice Minnifield, quiet Marilyn Whirlwind, level-headed Ruth-Anne Miller, bombastic Adam and Eve, mysterious One-Who-Waits, Chris’ twin Bernard, The Brick’s Dave, Ruth-Anne’s Walt…  These people, their town, and their eccentric ways enchanted us. It was as if we knew them, spent an hour in Cicely with them every week. Even today, putting in a Northern Exposure DVD is like sitting down with dear, old friends. What a profound, exceptional, and beautiful place literally and figuratively.  The town of Roslyn was Cicely. And the town exists.

Roslyn Cafe in Roslyn Washington. Northern Exposure's Cicely, AK.
Roslyn Cafe in Roslyn, Washington, more often known as Northern Exposure’s Cicely, AK. Cue the music and the moose.
Dr. Joel Fleischman's Office in Roslyn, WA Northern Exposure Cicely AK Northwestern Mining Co.
Dr. Joel Fleischman’s office in Cicely, AK (Rosyln, WA). 
Evening on Roslyn's Main Street, Washington. Northern Exposure Cicely AK
Mama Lucy heading down the hill into Roslyn’s Main Street.

Pilgrimage

We arrived in the late afternoon and checked in to the Huckleberry House on the hill. It was a no frills room–in a no TV, no internet, no breakfast “Bed and Breakfast”. But there was a shared coffee maker and refrigerator and it was just a 3-minute walk to great breakfasts at Rosyln Cafe. We spent our time there walking around the buildings featured in the show. We had meals in the Brick and at Village Pizza. Mama Lucy wasn’t a Northern Exposure viewer and missed having a TV and the internet in the evenings. Regardless, we enjoyed the time to walk, reflect, and get some of that fresh mountain air.

the Brick. Rosyln, WA aka Cicely, AK
I expected to see Holling Vincoeur and Shelly Tambo behind the bar in the Brick. Rosyln, WA aka Cicely, AK.
Ruth-Anne Miller's Grocery Store. Rosyln, WA aka Northern Exposure's Cicely, AK.
Ruth-Anne Miller’s Grocery Store. Rosyln, WA aka Northern Exposure’s Cicely, AK.
Playing Trivial Pursuit at Village Pizza on a Saturday night in Roslyn WA, aka Northern Exposure's Cicely, AK.
Playing Trivial Pursuit at Village Pizza on a Saturday night in Roslyn WA, aka Northern Exposure’s Cicely, AK.

 

Let go of that cow, and fling something

As I walked around Cicely/Roslyn, I imagined seeing Chris sitting in the KBHR booth, or that I’d see Shelly running across the street to Ruth-Anne’s, or maybe Ed would come around the corner with a smile. And I fell in love with the cozy colorful homes, with the plumes of smoke coming from chimneys over tin roofs. I imagined tucking in to a sweet little house with books and a dog or two. Maybe things would be different here. More creatively stimulating. More thoughtful. More there in the moment. Maybe just more life.
It’s been such a strange few years. We’ve felt a little lost. And while some changes may be good for us, some changes just suck. There is no map to figure it out, to see how long the bad roads will last, or which way to go to smooth it out. We wander around until we wander out. Or maybe I just need to fling something.

The Fling…From the episode “Burning Down the House”

Chris: I’ve been here now for some days, groping my way along, trying to realize my vision here. I started concentrating so hard on my vision that I lost sight. I’ve come to find out that it’s not the vision, it’s not the vision at all. It’s the groping. It’s the groping, it’s the yearning, it’s the moving forward. I was so fixated on that flying cow that when Ed told me Monty Python already painted that picture, I thought I was through. I had to let go of that cow so I could see all the other possibilities.

Anyway, I want to thank Maurice for helping me to let go of that cow. Thank you Maurice for playing Apollo to my Dionysus in art’s Cartesian dialectic. And thanks to you, Ed, cause the truth shall set us free! And Maggie, thank you for sharing in the destruction of your house so that today we could have something to fling.

I think Kierkegaard said it oh so well, ‘The self is only that which it’s in the process of becoming.’ Art? Same thing. James Joyce had something to say about it too. ‘Welcome, Oh Life! I go to encounter for the millionth time the reality of experience, and to forge in the smythe of my soul the uncreated conscious of my race.’

We’re here today to fling something that bubbled up from the collective unconsciousness of our community. Ed, you about ready? The thing I learned folks, this is absolutely key: It’s not the thing you fling. It’s the fling itself. Let’s fling something, Cicely! 

Northern Exposure's KBHR radio station. Rosyln, WA. AKA Cicely, AK
Northern Exposure’s KBHR radio station. Cicely, AK (Rosyln, WA). 
Cicely AK Northern Exposure Totem Pole in Roslyn, WA
The Totem Pole in Roslyn, WA
"Explosives", church, and horses. Roslyn WA.
“Explosives”, church, and horses. Roslyn WA.

 

If you are a Northern Exposure fan, you’ll probably like these links.

First, put on some music. Because of music rights issues, the original tunes didn’t always make it to the DVDs. But some good soul has pulled together a lot of the music into a Spotify Playlist.

Read more about each episode at Moosechick. Really, a fantastic resource.

Also, there’s recent news that a return to Cicely is in the works. Will they really reboot it? Will it be great, like the original?

Northern Exposure Cicely Alaska little pink shotgun house in Roslyn, Washington.
A little pink shotgun house in Roslyn, Washington.
Fall in Cascadia. A house in Rosyln, WA.
Fall in Cascadia. A house in Rosyln, WA.
Green House, Red Tin Roof, Picket Fence. Rosyln, WA.
Green House, Red Tin Roof, Picket Fence. Rosyln, WA.
Pink House, Red Trim, Lace Curtains. Roslyn, WA
Pink House, Red Trim, Lace Curtains. Roslyn, WA
Brown and blue house. Roslyn, WA.
Brown and blue house. Roslyn, WA.
Chimney smoke, red tin roof, porch lights November cozy in Roslyn, WA.
November cozy in Roslyn, WA.
November cozy in the mustard yellow house with chimney smoke, Roslyn WA.
November cozy in the mustard yellow house with chimney smoke, Roslyn WA.
Snow on the roof and a wooden fence. Rosyln WA
Snow on the roof and a wooden fence. Rosyln WA.
Huckleberries on the ground at Huckleberry House in Roslyn WA, aka Northern Exposure's Cicely AK.
Huckleberries on the ground at Huckleberry House in Roslyn WA, aka Northern Exposure’s Cicely AK.
Fallen apples in Roslyn, Washington.
Fallen apples in Roslyn, Washington.
Elk or deer seen from the road on the drive out of Roslyn Washington.
Seen from the road on the drive out of Roslyn Washington.

 

Finally, you can see more of our travels on my blog. And some select photos are available on my Etsy site.
Thanks for reading!

Bon hiver y’all! 🙂

Six weeks in the Fall…68 hours in Seattle

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Public Market Reflection
Public Market Reflection

I’m am woefully behind in posting some of the things I’ve been working on these past six weeks. But I can’t be too sorry as it has been an extraordinary time filled with little journeys. Two weeks ago today, I returned from my first visit to my 32nd state, Washington. Things that impressed me?

The low, dense fog that covered the city when we landed. I thought it was a cloud. But upon clearing it, we were seconds from the runway.

The neon in the Public Market!

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The bright neon signs welcome early morning shoppers in the Public Market
Post Alley on the hill going down to the market and waterfront
Post Alley on the hill going down to the market and waterfront

The gum wall in an artsy/gummy alley. How exactly does this kind of thing get started and “go viral”?

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The gum wall…yes, all of that is used chewing gum…

The Starbucks mother-ship…for my coffee-like blood, this was like mecca! Put this coffee with one of the chocolate croissants from Le Panier and a potato and cheese pastry from Piroshky Piroshky Bakery, and a bite of fresh made cheese from Beecher’s…and well, I could have stayed there all day.

The bar called Canon. Beautiful. Extraordinary light and atmosphere.

Canon Bar
Canon Bar

And last but not least? Where was that mountain?! The fog was thick for 3 days. I told friends that the only way I could possibly see that mountain was if I was standing on it. On the flight back home…I thought I had missed it, had sat on the wrong side of the plane…but lucky me! The plane did a U-turn and as soon as the wings leveled off…there it was! Mt. Rainier…massive, majestic!

Mt Rainier
Mt Rainier

Thank you Seattle!