Greece: Naoussa and Parikia, Paros

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Blue Star Ferry from Santorini to Paros

After a week on astoundingly beautiful Santorini, we took a ferry to a quiet island called Paros. Our friend Helen had suggested this island as a restful place to wind-down our trip…an island with typical Greek Island life and less tourists. We’d made arrangements through Himalaya Travel to stay in Naoussa, but spent much of our time in Paros in Parikia and Lefkes.

From the ferry, the village of Fira, Santorini, Greece.
From the ferry, the village of Fira, Santorini, Greece.
From the ferry, the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.
From the ferry, the village of Oia, Santorini, Greece.

 

Gypsies?

In Santorini, a group of six women sat waiting to board the ferry. Each sat on a bundle the size of a bean-bag chair. They all wore kerchiefs, layers of long skirts and aprons, and work boots that must have walked a million miles. Among them was one young girl, maybe ten years old, in jeans and a t-shirt under a jean jacket, her hair in a pony tail with stray strands. Maybe they were sisters, aunts, grandmothers, Gypsies? I was mesmerized by their rugged faces and different ways.

Someone left behind a grocery bag. The girl grabbed it and within seconds the ladies all crowded around to examine the contents. They studied each piece of trash, peering into empty chip bags. When they’d finished, they put the bag back. The young girl held her hand out, begging from another passenger–a young woman who instead of giving her money, took the girl’s hand between her own with a smile in a gesture of friendship. The girl beamed at her. A man offered the girl a piece of candy, which she took slowly while staring at him. She ran to one of the women, showing the candy and pointing to the man. The woman looked at him as she unwrapped the candy, sniffed it, and took a big bite. As she chewed, she handed the other half of the candy back to the girl, and nodded at the man.

They looked as if they could have walked out of photos taken in the 1800s in the villages of Ireland, Italy, Greece, or Russia. I lost them in the crowd getting on the ferry. Later, I saw them exiting at Naxos in the pouring rain, their bundles thrown over their shoulders like granny Santas.

 

Naoussa Paros Arrival

We arrived in Paros after a three-hour ferry ride. The ferry backs in to the dock, and the alarms beep as the hatch goes down and is positioned on the dock. Meanwhile, passengers gather and start their cars to exit. It was already dark, and the rain was coming down. We got a taxi, gave him the address for our hotel in Naoussa, and headed into the night.

After checking in, we stood on the dark balcony in the wind–we could hear the sea, but couldn’t see it. Our room overlooked a small beach and bay. But we wouldn’t know that until the morning.

The view from our balcony at night. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
The view from our balcony at night. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.

 

Greek Independence Day

The next day was Greek Independence Day and there was a parade. This celebration marks the end of the war in 1830, when the Greeks defeated the Ottoman Empire. Gathering at the main church in Naoussa, the children marched through the streets carrying flags. The tiniest tots were dressed in traditional Greek attire, while teens wore their school uniforms of navy blue skirts or pants and crisp white shirts.

Children parade for Greek Independence Day in Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Children parade for Greek Independence Day in Naoussa, Paros. Greece.

 

Paros Days

We spent our days in Paros walking around the village’s narrow passageways, and traveling around the island by bus to the larger town of Parikia (where the ferry docks) and to the mountain village of Lefkes.

An octopus advertises a seafood cafe on the shores of Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
An octopus advertises a seafood cafe on the shores of Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
A different shade of blue. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
A different shade of blue. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.

 

Not Tourist Season Yet

Once again, it was obvious that “the season” hadn’t begun yet. Only a few restaurants were open, and much painting was going on. Many places were closed or had limited hours, still preparing for tourist season to begin after Easter.

We became regulars at one of the only places in town open for dinner, Riatsa. Locals and the few tourists in town dined on tasty pastas, salads, and wine in their cozy kitchen.

A great little tavern/cafe for music, iced coffee, and cookies. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
A great little tavern/cafe for music, iced coffee, and cookies. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Table for three. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Table for three. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.

 

Paros Marble

Paros is an island made of marble. It is famous for its fine white marble–which today has mostly been depleted. In fact, the marble for Venus de Milo came from this island.

Buildings’ steps are often marble slabs, well-worn, repaired, and painted a hundred times over. We wandered around the old marble streets, our shoes echoing in the quiet. The narrow lanes of white, gray, beiges, blues and greens were full of tiny stairs and passageways. Plants grow in small nooks among the steps and stairs. No space is wasted.

Marble steps complete with built-in garden. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Marble steps complete with built-in garden. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Marble steps and paths in Naoussa. Paros, Greece.
Marble steps and paths in Naoussa. Paros, Greece.
Looking down a path to blue door and window. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Looking down a path to blue door and window. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Cactus, windmill, and cats. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Cactus, windmill, and cats. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Cats. Lots of cats. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Cats. Lots of cats. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Green shutters, door, and clothesline. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Green shutters, door, and clothesline. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Green gate at the Octopus house. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Green gate at the Octopus house. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Laundry and gray doors. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
Laundry and gray doors. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.

 

Storm on Paros

One night there was a fierce storm on Paros. The wind relentlessly pummeled our room. One of the shutters came unhooked and slammed into the wall and window until Bryan ran out to secure it. The patio furniture was flipped over already. He got back inside–soaking wet–before the hail started. The rain came down in sheets for a few hours and water began seeping in under our door. We put our towels at the door and window. The lights flickered. The wind howled. Things rattled and banged. Here we were on a small island in the middle of the Aegean and Mediterranean, huddled and waiting to be blown away, or for the storm to wear itself out.

In the morning, the sun came out but the temperature was about ten degrees cooler.

The view from our room and balcony. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.
The view from our room and balcony on a nice day. Naoussa, Paros. Greece.

 

Parikia

We saw so many quaint alleys, short doors, marble fountains, little niches opening into cave-like churches with candles burning amidst glistening gold icons, and tiny spaces for trees and vines to grow. Men painted the street-stones’ outlines, and it was necessary to hopscotch down the streets until the white wash dried.

Gray doors on a lane in Parikia. Paros, Greece.
Gray doors on a lane in Parikia. Paros, Greece.
Painted streets, a small church door, and a tiny plot for a tree. Parikia, Paros. Greece.
Painted streets, a small church door, and a tiny plot for a tree. Parikia, Paros. Greece.

 

Walking in Parikia, we found this beautiful old tree and cafe in the middle of the lane. And behind it on a canal-like bridge, was the cafe “Symposium”. We loved that tiny place for its great sandwiches, red wine, and ambiance.

A cafe under a tree at the in-between. Parikia, Paros. Greece.
A cafe under a tree at the in-between. Parikia, Paros. Greece.

 

Panagia Ekatontapiliani’s Leaning Trees

I went to see the Church of the 100 doors, but was more intrigued by the forest of leaning trees outside Panagia Ekatontapiliani. After wandering in the little forest, I sat in the church, watching the sparrows fly around the warm sunlit room filled with gold-painted icons, hundreds of flickering candles while worshippers kissed icons going clockwise around the room.

Leaning trees and a path. Panagia Ekatontapiliani (The Church of 100 Doors). Parikia, Paros, Greece.
Leaning trees and a path. Panagia Ekatontapiliani (The Church of 100 Doors). Parikia, Paros, Greece.
Leaning trees at Panagia Ekatontapiliani (or The Church of 100 Doors). Parikia, Paros, Greece.
Leaning trees at Panagia Ekatontapiliani (or The Church of 100 Doors). Parikia, Paros, Greece.
Cat waits on water fountain. Graffiti in Parikia, Paros, Greece.
Cat waits on water fountain. Graffiti in Parikia, Paros, Greece.
Yellow flowers in a tiny garden. Parikia, Paros. Greece.
A modest garden. Parikia, Paros. Greece.

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Carol Fletcher is a traveling, dog-loving, coffee-addicted photographer and blogger living in Chicago. To see more photo essays and projects, please visit www.carolfletcher.com.