Holi in Orchha
After spending the afternoon and sundown at the Taj Mahal, we celebrated with a big dinner. Tomorrow we would leave Agra via train. We were headed for Holi in Orchha. Tonight was Holi eve, and the streets were active…drums, bonfires, shouting and singing…Oh India!
First, What is Holi?
Holi is the festival of colors celebrating the victory of good over evil, the arrival of spring and end of winter, and is a day to forgive and forget. The festivities last for a night and a day, starting with bonfires on the evening of the full moon day. The next day people throw brightly colored flour-like powder, smearing each other in a free-for-all festival. Anyone and everyone is fair game–friend or stranger, rich or poor, man or woman, kids or elders, locals or tourists. And it can happen anywhere–in the streets, parks, outside temples, train stations, in tuk-tuks…anywhere and everywhere. The Holi color flinging starts at daybreak.
Holi Eve in Agra
On Holi Eve, celebrations in Agra started at sundown with bonfires in the streets, drums and joyful calls of “Happy Holi!” (sounding like “Appy O-lee!”). At dinner, we watched from the restaurant balcony while discussing the purchase of paper-thin, white outfits to wear instead of our travel clothes (350 INR, about $4.50 USD) and a bottle of alcohol to celebrate Holi in Orchha. It was a fun night, sitting there eating and drinking, and jumping up to try on different sizes of white outfits that seemed to materialize in the restaurant. Several of us purchased the long white tunic and pants set for 350 INR (about $4.50 USD). And we collectively bought a bottle of vodka to share.
Taking the train from Agra to Orchha
We left the hotel early the next morning for the train station. Almost immediately after we got to our platform, Khush got hit with magenta by a stranger in the station, his jet black hair now with a large streak of pink.
While we waited, we petted and fed two dogs who were roaming the station. The dogs sat among our luggage, smiling at us and maybe hoping we’d take them with us. And how I wish I could have. Like every poor country in the world, animals in India suffer from hunger, thirst, and cruelty. Please if you go to India, consider taking resources for the animals.
A basic breakfast was included in the train ticket price: “cutlets” (meatless potato sticks), green peas, four (4) french fries, and two slices of bread. An odd combination for me, but when served with coffee while India rolls by my window–I was perfectly happy. That’s the joy in traveling!
Tuk-tuks to Orchha
After a 2+ hour train ride to Jhansi, we had a 1+ hour tuk-tuk ride to Orchha. Our group divided into five tuk-tuks and we were on our way. Bryan and I rode with Carina, and laughed like kids as we watched people get hit with Holi colors. All along our route, we saw people splattered with splotches of yellow, green, pink, or purple. It was in their hair, on their backs, and across their faces. Everyone smiled at us with “HAPPY HOLI!” greetings, and gave us mischievous grins as they most certainly were considering sharing some Holi colors with the tourists. Some in our group got a gentle thumb of hot pink color across a cheek and a forehead when a smiling stranger reached into their stopped tuk-tuk.
We were on our way to the beautiful Orchha Resort, where some of the rooms are tents. We were anxious to get to our hotel, eat, change into different clothes, put the cameras away, and get colorful!
Happy Holi!
Khush and another G Adventures leader decided it was too risky to take our groups into town where the celebrations were running high octane on alcohol. So we “played Holi” at the hotel. A table was set up in the grassy area just outside our tent, and we all grabbed handfuls of color, chasing and heaving it at each other—running and screaming like kids. Within 10 seconds of walking out of the tent, someone grabbed me and dropped a big handful of green and yellow powder on my head and down my back. Bryan got a handful in the ear. But what fun! And what a holy mess!
As you might imagine, clean up took a long while. Colors stained everything. The white outfit served its purpose and was trashed, and undergarments were permanently stained. Bryan had green powder in his ear for a month. My hair seemed almost blonde with the yellow flour powder. The shower tile turned green and yellow. Pink powder remained on the palm tree outside our tent, and puddles of colors covered the grass the next day.
Around Orchha
We loved our cozy tent in Orchha. It was equipped with a water kettle for early morning coffee. An AC unit and fan kept it comfortably cool. And it had a bathroom with a big shower. I think I could spend a month of Sundays there.
After Holi clean-up, we walked to dinner at Ramraja, a small restaurant near Orchha Palace and Fort. They served delicious, home-cooked meals in a cozy, friendly space. Also, they let us lock up our cameras and bags before we went to a temple.
To round out Holi, we attended a Hindu Puja at a nearby temple (Ram Raja). First, we removed our shoes, then walked barefoot into the temple joining hundreds of other people sitting in a courtyard, waiting. The perimeter had grottos with statues encircled by candles. Bells rang, a door opened to a holy man performing a ritual, the crowd chanted “jai ho” with hands up, many lit incense fans, and brought flower offerings wrapped beautifully in newspaper. At the grottos, people received water drops from the River Ganges–the water was placed in their palms to taste and touch to eyes and head. As we left, a line of people pushed through a gated area to get closer to the holy man. And the cries of “Jai Ho” continued.
Orchha’s Cenotaphs
The next morning, we visited the Cenotaphs of Orchha. Cenotaphs are empty tombs built in honor of people buried elsewhere. Here, there are fourteen memorials to the rulers of Orchha, grouped along the Kanchana Ghat of the river Betwa. In this complex near our hotel, we saw nesting owls and vultures. And in the eaves, there were many massive wasp nests–very big…like the size of six-burner-industrial-oven big. As we sat to hear Khush’s stories of India, Hinduism, and the Cenotaphs, we were careful not to sit beneath the wasps…just in case.
Holy Cows
Cows are sacred in India–slaughter is forbidden and eating beef is taboo. Khush explained that cows represent mother, and they are milked even though they wander freely. Despite their exalted status, we saw a man slap a cow in the face at an intersection, and another man hit one with a stick when the cow nosed around the fruit at a market stall. Cows and bulls are everywhere. They stand in traffic, on sidewalks, and roam around in markets. Cows nose through the trash and burning roadside piles looking for food or warmth. They are hungry. Many get sick from eating plastic. The Dalit caste (“Untouchables”), are charged with disposal of dead cows. One night, I dreamed of an endless grass field with freshwater ponds for them–these holy cows.
A Holy Pup and his Not-so-Holy Man
On our way to the palace fort, we came upon a man posing as a holy man with a puppy. The man (who was really more about getting donations for drinking according to Khush) called the puppy “Julie” and was collecting money from tourists for photos.
Later in this very hot day, I saw him walking with the puppy looking wilted in his arms. I asked him if the puppy had water or food. I poured bottled water into my cupped palm and offered it to the puppy. The poor pup squirmed up and raced to drink the water before it dripped away. The old man held his hand beneath mine to help stop the leaking water. I refilled my palm until the bottle was empty. I fussed at the man the whole time…”Take care! This is just a baby. Feed her. Give her water. It’s too hot for her.” I think–I hope–he got the message.
Thieving Monkeys
As we entered Raja Mahal, we encountered monkeys…thieving monkeys! They all turned when they heard a plastic bag rattle, and ran at the young man carrying it. He screamed out and tossed his bag of food to another guy to save it. But the monkeys were faster. Two monkeys intercepted the toss, screeching at each other and tearing the bag apart. Snacks rained down. Monkeys mobbed the space, grabbing all they could. A dog ran over, but was one second too late and no match for the monkeys’ greedy hands. Monkeys scattered with their loot. They do not share. One small monkey reached for a bite and was screamed at by the monkey who held the bread just out of the little one’s reach.
Orchha Palace Fort: Raja Mahal and Jahangir Mahal
We spent a quiet afternoon wandering the palace and fort area. The Raja Mahal, built in the 1500s, was where the royals resided until it was abandoned in 1783. It is simple on the outside, but has ornate murals in interior rooms. Later, we sat catching a breeze and watching “holi’d” goats graze at Jahangir Mahal.
Later, we watched the full moon rise over the cenotaphs and our hotel’s tents. Tonight we were headed to Varanasi on the overnight train. Stay tuned!
Thank you for reading
Select photos are available on Etsy.
Also, if you’ve been to India, please leave a comment about your favorite memories and places! I’m dying to go back and would love recommendations.
Finally, if you liked this post and would like to stay in touch, please…
Carol Fletcher is a traveling, dog-loving, coffee-addicted photographer and blogger living in Chicago. To see more photo essays and projects, please visit www.carolfletcher.com.