Lake Tekapo and Pounamu

Posted January 25, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Lake Tekapo

On our final days in New Zealand, we made our way back up the South Island via Tekapo. This little place is about halfway between Queenstown and Christchurch and is known for being an area of low light pollution. If you’ve ever seen the photos of a night full of stars and an old church in the foreground, this is probably the place.

Coming out of Queenstown, George the bus driver had the greatest sayings. I spent much of the four-hour ride to Tekapo writing down as many of his sayings as possible. I also heard him pronounce Tekapo the way I should have been saying it all along, ”tee-cuh-poo”…flashes of a teeny gray poodle in a pink bone-china teacup cross my mind just about every time I say it.

Regarding the vineyards all around the South Island, George told us about a winery that needed harvesters, so the owner offered a bottle of wine for anyone who came to help harvest, “Just one bottle mind you. And blow me down. He got 90 helpers!” Pinot Noir is found in Central Otago, and Sauvignon Blanc in the Marlborough Region…two favorites. Next time, we’ll do a vineyard tour, maybe help in the harvesting.

Rows of grapevines in a Vineyard in Central Otago, New Zealand — *Rows of grapevines in a Central Otago vineyard, New Zealand.*

We passed the first bungee jump location near Queenstown, “where you can stretch yer bones,” George said. And nearby, you can pan for gold…another next time!

Our bus broke down on the way to Tekapo. George called for help and we waited. Each bus that passed stopped to see if they could help. One bus took some passengers with a flight to catch in Christchurch. The rest of us sat on the roadside, with our luggage, watching the clouds pass over the beautiful New Zealand land. Our replacement bus came within an hour to drive us into Tekapo.

We checked in to a dated hotel, and made our way over the bridge to see The Church of the Good Shepherd on Lake Tekapo. This 1935 stone church is often photographed with starlight behind. Close by is a monument to the hard-working dogs “without the help of which the grazing of this mountain country would be impossible”. I was surprised to see a Gaelic phrase on the inscription: Beannachdan Air Na Cu Caorach…Blessings on the sheepdogs.

*The stone Church of the Good Shepherd on the banks of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.*

*Monument to the working dogs of the Mackenzie Basin, Tekapo, New Zealand.*

We ate a hearty dinner, watched the sunset, and walked awhile before bed. I got up several times in the night to go out and gaze at the stars in a mostly cloudy sky. I had seen photos of the Aurora Australis, the Southern Lights, here…and oh how tight my fingers were crossed every time I stepped out the door that night. But once again, the Polar Lights eluded me. In the hours before dawn, I walked to the Church to see the sunrise. I sat on a boulder and watched the ripples in the water reflecting the pink and orange sky. Such pink, and peace.

A bridge at dawn in Tekapo, New Zealand — *The footbridge over Scott Pond at dawn in Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.*

The Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo New Zealand, selected for its clear atmosphere, large number of clear sky nights, and relative freedom from light pollution, Mount John University Observatory is located on a small hill to the north. This area has been declared a Dark-Sky Reserve, one of only four in the world. — The Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo New Zealand. Mount John University Observatory is located on a small hill to the north. Selected for its clear atmosphere, high number of clear sky nights, and freedom from light pollution, this area has been declared a Dark-Sky Reserve, one of only four in the world.

*Pink sunrise on Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.*

Pounamu

Before leaving Queenstown, I made a touristy purchase at Global Culture—three small plain pieces of New Zealand jade on a leather cord. Jade is called pounamu, or greenstone, in New Zealand. It originates in the rivers of an area in the southwest known as Te Wahipounamu, Māori for “the place of greenstone”. This special area contains four national parks (Aoraki/Mt. Cook, Mt. Aspiring, Fiordland, and Westland) and owns superlatives like:

the largest and least modified area of New Zealand’s natural ecosystem with diverse vegetation that is essentially in pristine condition
having the largest and most significant population of forest birds in the country and home to many indigenous animals
the area least populated with humans
one of the most seismically active regions in the world.

A piece of pounamu binds one to this place.

It is said that greenstone is not found, but reveals itself. That’s a good thing, since greenstone is within nondescript boulders and rocks that are difficult to identify as pounamu without cutting open the host stone. In the river, the stone is always moving. It, like a fish—or us—is on a journey.

I sat there on a boulder that morning in Tekapo, feeling the greenstones around my neck, smooth and comforting. A few days later, I held my greenstones as the airplane wheels left the ground of New Zealand. Will they miss it here? Will they bring me strength, peace as I roll along? Will they bring me back? I hope so.

*In 1935, the builders of the Church were instructed that the site was to be left undisturbed and that even the matagouri bushes surrounding the building were to remain.*

*Peaceful morning on the shores of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.*

Dawn at the Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.Dawn at the Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo, New Zealand. — *Dawn at the Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.*

*From the Scott Pond bridge, overlooking the Church of the Good Shepherd and Lake Tekapo, New Zealand.*

Click for more about Queenstown, Christchurch, and other parts of New Zealand. Select photos are for sale on Etsy.
If you are going to New Zealand, we have unused bus pass hours for sale. Please message me.

Next stop…Australia!

Mt. Cook, Lindis Pass, and Next Time

Posted January 23, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Another day, another drive!

This time, we were on our way to see Aoraki / Mt. Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand at more than 12,200 feet. Today’s driver guide, Stuart, had a teacher’s way with his old-timer’s knowledge of the land, its nature, and the country ways. We spent 7 hours on the bus to and from Mt. Cook village (160 miles each way). It was not nearly enough time to explore the area. Once again, we had to reassure ourselves with “Next time.”

Lake Pukaki

Stuart knew a lot about geology. He told us that New Zealand was the only above-water land on the 8th continent, Zealandia. He explained the moraines that formed the valley and the glacial flour that made Lake Pukaki so unbelievably blue. There were sky blue dollops, within turquoise blue pools and aquamarine patches in Lake Pukaki. I’ve never seen water that blue in all my life. It would have been grand to spend a whole week on those shores, watching the lake change shades of blue in the light, and trying to think of all the words in the world for this Lake Pukaki blue. Next time.

Animals of (and not of) New Zealand

Stuart knew a lot about sheep farming. He told us about Shrek the Sheep who avoided shearing for 6 years by hiding out in the mountains. Poor old Shrek was so matted and “wool blind” by the time they got him that he had to be carried down the mountain. When he was at long last shorn, his wool made enough yarn for 20 large men’s suits.

Stuart knew a lot about herding dogs. He explained the difference between “heading dogs—silent, obsessive, steely-gazed herders” and “huntalongs who walk with the farmer–speaking as often as necessary.” Stuart told us about the Country Calendar TV show that documents rural life in New Zealand. I watched a few episodes in New Zealand, and…next time, I’d love to spend some time with the sheep, the headings, and the huntalongs. The Country Calendar program is not fully available outside New Zealand, but I found an episode featuring the group Retired Working Dog Adoption NZ.

Stuart knew a lot about non-endemic plants and animals: like the pine trees we saw cut and stacked as wind row fences, and like the rabbits and deer we saw in the fields. Rabbits were first introduced to New Zealand in the 1830s. With few natural enemies, the rabbits over-populated and are periodically culled. New Zealand also has deer over-population, said to have started when deer were gifted to the country for hunting stock. The rabbits and deer compete with the sheep for grass, and in the winter of 1890, it came to a critical head. There was not enough fodder for the sheep, who were left on the fields. When the snow accumulated that year, in one of the harshest winters ever recorded, there was not enough labor to dig the sheep out of the snow in the fields. It’s estimated that 45,000 sheep died. Horrible. But It doesn’t seem fair that rabbits and deer take all the blame. They are not responsible for sheltering sheep, or for not hiring enough people to bring them in. And hey, sheep are not native to New Zealand either.

Kiwis are endemic. And they are endangered because of loss of habitat and non-native predators. In a cruel design twist for a bird, they cannot fly. They lay eggs that are very large in comparison to their chicken-like body size. They have hair-like feathers, and an unusually good sense of smell for a bird (presumably to make up for being nearly blind). These flightless quirky birds can live to be 60-years old. Many live in captivity–to save them, and/or to make a few bucks showing them off to tourists. There is one group called Kiwis for Kiwi that helps birds safely hatch and make it to adulthood before releasing them into nature with their project Operation Nest Egg.

Cromwell and the Golden Kiwi

We passed Jones Family Fruit Stall in Cromwell twice that day, stopping both times for fresh fruit and sampling. Did you know there is a golden kiwi? We sampled the green and golden kiwis side-by-side at Jones. The golds look almost the same from the outside, maybe a little less hairy. On the inside, golden kiwis look less seedy than the traditional green variety, and I found them to be a bit sweeter.

*Colorful baskets of fruit, fresh from the farm at Jones Family Fruit Stall in Cromwell, New Zealand. Funny how pine cones sort of resemble pineapples…*

Mt. Cook and Sir Edmund Hillary

And as we got closer to Aoraki / Mount Cook, Stuart turned our attention to Sir Edmund Hillary and mountain climbing. Mt. Cook is considered an assessment and practice mountain for those wanting to climb Everest. According to New Zealand’s tourism site, “Mt Cook is a technically challenging mountain. Its level of difficulty is often underestimated. The climb crosses large crevasses, and involves risks of ice and rock falls, avalanches, and rapidly changing weather conditions.” The mountain lost nearly 100 feet in height in 1991 because of a large rock fall that reshaped the summit.

Sir Edmund Hillary—or “Hilly” as they call him here–was born in Auckland. In college, he joined the Tramping Club and studied math. But he dropped-out to keep bees with his family in summers and hone his climbing skills in winters. Hilly made his first ascent of Mt Cook in January 1948, and a month later was the first to top the South Ridge (now known as Hillary Ridge). Of course, in 1953, Hilly was the first to summit Mt. Everest with Tenzing Norgay. New Zealand is quite proud of their native son and he occupies their colorful five-dollar note, sharing it with images of Mt.Cook and the endangered Hoiho penguin.

We spent only a few hours in Mt. Cook Village. A month would not have been enough time. Next time. But my, what a fine, fresh smell. What is it about mountains? Is it the juniper, the grasses on the surrounding slopes? Or is it just the smell of altitude. I stared and stared at those mountains, trying to see the knife-edge ridge of Mt. Cook’s summit through the thick cloud cover. Sometimes, I was allowed a one-second glimpse of snow-capped mountain tops. Was that Mt. Cook?

A path to the trail to Aoraki / Mt. Cook, Southern Alps, New Zealand — *A path to the trails to Aoraki / Mt. Cook, Southern Alps, New Zealand.*

Rooftops of cabins with Aoraki / Mt. Cook mountain behind clouds, New Zealand — *Cabin rooftops at Aoraki / Mt. Cook Village, New Zealand.*

Aoraki / Mt Cook Village, with a view to a campervan on a valley road, New Zealand — *Aoraki / Mt Cook Village, with a view to a campervan miniaturized on a valley road, New Zealand.*

Lindis Pass

Of all the places we saw this day, I’d most like to spend more time around Lindis Pass. As we drove into this quiet, treeless landscape, Stuart pointed out that early settlers had burned large swaths of tussock around the Pass, destroying the underlying ecosystem. Today, there are miles and miles of rolling green land, rolling and rolling and rolling….like a worn-thin green velvet blanket draped over jade stones, in places rubbed smooth from a worrying thumb. There was something so peaceful and empty and raw about that landscape. A draw-in-your-breath kind of beauty. Respect. Silence.

Next time.

*The landscape at Lindis Pass, New Zealand. A selection of my New Zealand prints can be purchased on Etsy.*

*Lindis Pass tussock on the South Island of New Zealand.*

*The road through Lindis Pass, New Zealand.*

Lovely Lindis Pass, New Zealand — *Ridges in a valley in lovely Lindis Pass, New Zealand.*

If you are going to New Zealand, we have unused bus pass hours for two people for sale at a discount. We have 17 hours each for 2 people which is a $175 USD ($260 NZD) total value. We’re selling the hours for $150 USD total. Payment can be made via Paypal, and with a quick name transfer at InterCity.co.nz, the passes will be yours. The pass hours are good for these GreatSights bus or Interislander ferry services. Travel has to be completed by January 5, 2019 or I’d be keeping this for our next trip! Comment or message me if you’re interested!

The Divide and Milford Sound, New Zealand

Posted January 21, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Queenstown to Milford Sound

To get from Queenstown to Milford Sound is not as easy as it might look on a bird’s map. The two towns are only about 40 miles apart, but it’s 40 miles over the the Southern Alps’ Main Divide. For those of us without wings, our road is 180 miles and a ~4 hour trip each way. On our day trip to Milford Sound, we were lucky to have Greg as our GreatSights bus driver / tour guide. When Greg saw my camera (or maybe it was Bryan’s beer t-shirt?), he invited us to sit in the front row so that I could more easily move into the front door’s jump seat for good photos at key viewing points.

Reflection in Mirror Lakes, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand — *Reflection in Mirror Lakes, Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.*

Sky and Mountains reflecting in Mirror Lakes, in Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand — *Sky and Mountains reflecting in Mirror Lakes, Fiordland National Park, South Island, New Zealand.*

Like all of the bus drivers, Greg knew his New Zealand. He told us so many things about his country…I couldn’t write fast enough to get them all down and ended up with fragments like “can’t chop fallen trees”. We stopped several times that day for sights, and for bathroom breaks, or as Greg said in his sparkling wit, “to spend a penny”. Roadside sights included Mirror Lakes, a river near Livingstone which Greg assured us was 100% pure to drink from “just like the ads said”, and the Chasm. The Chasm is a dramatic and deep gap where the water of the Cleddau River falls, swirls and bubbles down among the sculpted rocks and caverns beneath two viewing bridges.

100% Pure New Zealand, Fiordland National Park — *A 100% pure New Zealand river, in Fiordland National Park.*

We passed a marker indicating we were at 45 degrees South, the halfway-point between the Equator and the South Pole. How lucky and strange if felt to see that, remembering that I’d been at 45 degrees North in November with my mother somewhere in Oregon! What a big wide world.

The Divide

We were on our way to Milford Sound. A place that has been called the 8th wonder of the world. Equally impressive and awesome was The Divide, and the Homer Tunnel that goes through to Milford Sound. We were passing through the Fiordland National Park, the land becoming rocky, dramatic, treeless, and dwarfing our bus. Greg explained that the Divide runs from Greymouth to Invercargill and that the area around Fiordlands has more earthquakes than anywhere else in New Zealand because it sits on three fault lines. He reassured us that *only* 2,000 quakes were actually felt in 2016, the rest were imperceptible. The bus was all whispers and shutters snapping as we made our way into the valley between the rock mountains. The tops of those mountains were only visible if you stretched your head to your knees to look up out your window, or if you looked straight up, out the thoughtfully-planned glass roof of the GreatSights bus. We slowed to get in the queue for the Homer Tunnel.

*Queuing for the Homer Tunnel, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand*

Greg told us the story of the tunnel as we waited to go into the tiny entryway. The Homer Tunnel is a 0.75 mile-long tunnel through solid rock. Construction began in 1935 with a team of just 5 men with pickaxes. Other men joined them, and working in tough conditions, they managed to break through to the other side in only 5 years. However, it took much longer to widen and complete the tunnel because of World War II, and an avalanche in 1945. The tunnel finally opened in 1954 after 19 years of construction. It is wide enough for a bus and a car to pass each other, but lights regulate a one-way flow of traffic.

We entered the mouse hole and felt the road begin its steep decline, the wet tunnel walls so very close to the bus windows. Greg told us that this area receives an astounding 39+ feet of rain every year. As we exited the tunnel and saw the breathtaking steep road winding down into the Cleddau Valley, Greg’s voice quaked in pride, “It makes me the luckiest man in the world to have this as my workplace…imagine this on a rainy day when the sun breaks through, water pouring off these mountain walls like a champagne waterfall. It’s the most beautiful thing I’ll ever see.”

"Imagine this a champagne waterfall on a rainy day!" Fiordland National Park, New Zealand — “Imagine this on a rainy day, when the sun breaks through, water pouring off these mountain walls like a champagne waterfall!” Looking back up at the tunnel’s exit awning. Fiordland National Park, New Zealand.

The Chasm and tiny people looking in. New Zealand. — *The Chasm with people on a footbridge looking in. New Zealand.*

Milford Sound

Milford Sound, or the sing-song Piopiotahi in Maori, is grand, is moody, and is all the things you’ve ever heard describing it. Our 2+ hour lunch cruise took us out past forested fiord mountains, low-flying clouds, deep blue-gray water, and a hard-misting rain. Everything seemed black and white, unnaturally quiet, and Jurassic. We were nothing there on that water, just dots on a dot, on a trickle of water running between those ancient mountains. We passed through the bad weather into the blue skies of the Tasman Sea at the end of fiord. The boat came back into a completely different weather system, sunny and lighthearted now instead of the moody Milford we’d felt on the way out. Dolphins passed our boat from behind, criss-crossing in front like it was a race. Young male seals watched us as we watched them. The cruise captain stuck the nose of the boat under a waterfall, rainbows shooting out in the water droplets blowing back over the boat. Small prop planes took off over us giving bird’s-eye view tours.

My favorite part of this day will always be the image of a champagne waterfall in the Divide, and the shaky voice of a proud Kiwi describing the incredible view he is lucky to see every day.

*The Tasman Sea at the end of Milford Sound, New Zealand.*

*Waterfalls and clouds in Milford Sound, New Zealand.*

Clouds in Milford Sound, New Zealand — *Clouds beginning to lift out of Milford Sound, New Zealand.*

Planes going out in Milford Sound, New Zealand — *Plane going out in Milford Sound, New Zealand.*

*The green and grey waterfall drama of The Divide, South Island New Zealand.*

To read more about New Zealand’s bus tours and ferry rides, please see these posts:
Bus to Queenstown
Ferry to the South Island

On the Road to Queenstown

Posted January 20, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

On the Road to Queenstown

After a few days in Franz Josef, we boarded a bus for an all-day ride to Queenstown. Lucky us, we had Pete the driver for the first leg of the trip, and Lewis for the last leg. Both of these drivers had the storytelling gene and were steeped in pride and knowledge about the South Island of New Zealand.

Pete pulled off on a side road not too long after we started out from Franz Josef. On this fine, clear morning, he wanted to show us what he called the “trifecta view” …and the crazy white bull. We piled out of the bus on an empty country road and there across a sweet-smelling field, glowing in the morning sun, sat three New Zealand treasures: the Fox Glacier, Mt. Cook, and Mt. Tasman. We stayed there for a bit, taking photos and big gulps of fresh New Zealand mountain air. Back onboard, Pete then told us about the old white bull. This bull, either bored or crazy, is known for chasing cars like a dog—running alongside the road, inside his fence, snorting and carrying on. This morning however, the old bull was sleeping in the back corner of his pen. Alone with the view and the lonely road.

New Zealand's Fox Glacier, Mt. Cook, and Mt. Tasman — *New Zealand’s Fox Glacier, Mt. Cook, and Mt. Tasman.*

*Looking for dolphins in Bruce Bay, New Zealand.*

*Pleasant Flat, South Island New Zealand.*

We made more stops that day: at Bruce Bay to look for dolphins, and at Pleasant Flat just to gaze at the fields and mountains. Pete also told us the story of Knight, the opportunistic dog who went back-and-forth between two construction crews to get double the food and love during the west coast road-building of the 1950-60s. The story goes something like this:

Two road construction teams began from opposite ends, intent on meeting in the middle. After some years of construction, the two teams met north of Haast at a picturesque place on the coast. Officials journeyed to the meeting point to make arrangements for a commemorative monument by the roadside. In the course of conversation with the construction crew about naming the location, the crew informed the delegation from Wellington that the area had already been named Knight’s Point. The officials inquired who “Knight” was and were informed that he was the surveyor’s dog. Turns out the dog would stay with one crew part of the day, eat dinner with them, and then sometime in the evening, hike over to the other crew. They would feed him breakfast before he headed back to the first crew later in the day. Neither crew knew until they came together and both mentioned that the dog belonged with their crew. The official opening was on 6 November 1965, and is known as Knight’s Point for the dog.

We changed drivers at Thunder Creek, saying good-bye to Pete and hello to Lewis. We had some time to wander off the road down to the waterfall at Thunder Creek. Just a normal stop on the typical road in South Island, New Zealand…and there’s a waterfall. As I got back on the bus and studied the map, I smiled at the name of the area…Mt. Aspiring National Park. New Zealand is endearing in so many ways.

*The waterfall at Thunder Creek, New Zealand.*

*Our bus at Thunder Creek, New Zealand.*

*The beaches of Lake Hawea, South Island New Zealand.*

Queenstown

Lewis, the bus driver, dropped us near our hotel. The Queenstown Motel Apartments are a family run place where the rooms have balconies, spotless kitchenettes, and the breezes from the brilliant blue Lake Wakatipu.

We spent many happy days there in Queenstown, our base from which to explore the Milford Sound and Mt. Cook areas. It was a short but steep walk up and down to the town center, past three 100+ year old sequoias. Some favorite memories center around food and the beach/pier area:

Joe’s Garage. They put a little twist on the typical NZ breakfast offering with the Gorgeous George.

Taco Medic. Picnic tables in a little alley where I filled up on The Producer tacos: a most tasty combination of black beans with thyme and garlic, sweet pumpkin, cole slaw with pickled red onion, cilantro, coriander and feta cheese…yum.

The rock beach at Lake Wakatipu, near the pier, the street performers, and the ice cream shop. One day a couple dressed in wedding attire showed up on the beach with a photographer and a loaf of bread. How entertaining it was to watch this “trash the dress” or “good luck” session on the beach for the next hour. The couple invited the birds to crowd around their feet with bits of bread, and then ran through the flock for photos. Again, and again, and again.

Another day, we sat watching the mama seagulls come and go, bringing back morsels to feed their hungry teenagers. While the nearly full-sized teenagers waited for mom, they’d stand in the surf, staring into the sky and crying out. Some mean little kid came along and threw stones at one of the young birds we were watching. Thankfully, he missed. And I yelled “HEY! NO! Stop it!” as the kid raised his hand for another try. For a split second I thought the kid was going to throw his rocks at me instead. I was ready to jump up and chase the little turkey down the beach. But he thought better of it, dropped his rocks and ran off, I suppose to tell his mum that someone had yelled at him. His mom didn’t come to bless me out, the kiddo didn’t come back to bother the birds, the teenage birds’ moms did come back to feed their rattled babes, and thus, a happy ending.

Queenstown's rocky beach at Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand — *Queenstown’s rocky beach at Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand.*

*Locks on the Queenstown pier / Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand. Print available on Etsy.*

Ice cream near the pier in Queenstown — *Ice cream shop near the pier in Queenstown, New Zealand.*

If you are going to New Zealand, we have unused bus pass hours for two people for sale at a discount. We have 17 hours each for 2 people which is a $175 USD ($260 NZD) total value. We’re selling the hours for $150 USD total. Payment can be made via Paypal, and with a quick name transfer at InterCity.co.nz, the passes will be yours. The pass hours are good for bus or ferry services. Travel has to be completed by January 5, 2019. Comment or message me if you’re interested!

The Franz Josef Glacier

Posted January 20, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

“South Island roads are different. Allow more time.”

We exited the splendid TranzAlpine train from Christchurch at Greymouth and now boarded an InterCity bus to see the Franz Josef Glacier. We chose to leave the driving to someone else and purchased InterCity bus passes online. Bus passes are sold by hour packages, for example a 15-hour pass could take you on a 7 hour trip, the 7 hour return, and give you an hour left over. With a simple bus pass code, we scheduled our travel online. Easy, peasy. Together, InterCity, GreatSights and Gray Line connect locals and travelers all over New Zealand, with special coach buses to and from key scenic destinations. The bus drivers are country-proud Kiwis, serving as tour guides in addition to driver, conductor, and baggage handler. There are bathrooms and free WiFi on board, and you can’t beat the view—especially when you don’t have to concentrate on those crazy South Island roads.

Please note: If you are going to New Zealand, we have unused bus pass hours for two people for sale at a discount. We have 17 hours each for 2 people which is a $175 USD ($260 NZD) total value. We’re selling the hours for $150 USD total. Payment can be made via Paypal, and with a quick name transfer at InterCity.co.nz, the passes will be yours. The pass hours are good for bus or ferry services. Travel has to be completed by January 5, 2019. Comment or message me if you’re interested!

It is a 3.5 hours bus ride from Greymouth to Franz Josef. We arrived on time, and were dropped at our Franz Josef YHA hostel.

*Detail of a New Zealand fern in the rainforest of Westland Tai Poutini National Park*

Hostels…at our age?!

Well, yes! New Zealand’s YHA hostel system is a great idea for those of us who want centrally-located, clean accommodations without the fussy price. In Franz Josef, and in Wellington, we chose the YHA Hostel and got a double-bed room with a private bath. We did our laundry there, alongside some twenty-something backpackers, and hit the streets for a walkabout before dinner. We landed at an outside table at Alice May’s, with a view of all the surrounding mountains. The next morning, we awoke to the singing of unknown birds, and helicopters going up to the glacier.

*Bryan crossing the Waiho River on the Bailey Bridge in Franz Josef, New Zealand*

So, who is Franz Josef?

The glacier was named after Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria by a German explorer, Julius von Haast in 1865. The Māori name for the glacier is Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere (which translates to “The tears of Hine Hukatere”). The legend says that Hine Hukatere loved climbing in the mountains and persuaded her lover, Wawe, to climb with her. Wawe was a less experienced climber than Hine Hukatere but loved to accompany her. One day, an avalanche swept Wawe to his death. Hine Hukatere was broken-hearted and her many, many tears flowed down the mountain and froze to form the glacier. In 1998, the name of the glacier was officially changed to Franz Josef Glacier / Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere.

From the Southern Alps, the Franz Josef Glacier / Kā Roimtata ō Hine Hukatere steeply descends into the rainforest of Westland Tai Poutini National Park, making it more accessible for most people. In addition to being one of the steepest glaciers in the world, it also moves faster than average glaciers at over 19 inches per day (and 13 feet per day has been recorded in some sections).

Unlike others, this glacier has a more cyclic nature..receding and returning periodically. A 1946 postage stamp depicts the view of the glacier from St James Anglican Church. The church was built in 1931 with a panoramic altar window looking out to the glacier. By 1954, the glacier had disappeared from the church window’s view, but it reappeared in 1997. The glacier was still advancing until 2008, when it entered a very rapid phase of retreat. As of 2018 it is said to be rapidly advancing again.

Bryan and New Zealand waterfalls in the Westland Tai Poutini National Park near Franz Josef — *Bryan is dwarfed by New Zealand waterfalls in the Westland Tai Poutini National Park near Franz Josef*

The winding Waiho River in the Franz Josef Glacier / Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere valley runs beside the trail to the viewing point — *The winding Waiho River (in the Franz Josef Glacier / Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere valley) runs beside the trail to the viewing point*

Hiking to the Glacier

After a hearty breakfast of poached eggs on potato cakes and a few cups of stout coffee at Full of Beans, we headed out for a hike to meet Franz Josef, as New Zealanders so poetically say, “the glay-see-air”. Past the town, over the Waiho (said “Y-Ho”), and down the path through the rainforest we went. We encountered a variety of ferns, more new bird songs, smoke on the water, and warning signs to stay on the path to avoid dangers of quickly changing conditions in the glacial valley. One sign warned of falling ice “as big as a campervan”, another sign showed 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. comparison photos of the same spot in the riverbed, on a day when the river had surged, flooding the valley. !!! We kept to the path, past waterfalls, rich copper and mustard-colored lichen-covered boulders, stones with evidence of glacial striations…on and on we hiked, the sound of gravel under our feet. The sky grew darker, the temperature got cooler, and the green landscape gave way to gray. Poles, presumably for marking the trail in high snow or raging floods, were marked “no stopping” as we neared the viewing point.

*In the final mile of the hike to the viewing point, Franz Josef Glacier.*

*Sculpted mountain sides, showing where the Franz Josef Glacier once reached. Now this is the path to the viewing point.*

And there it was. Franz Josef Glacier. At the end of the path, and across an expanse of dark gray rocks was a giant tongue of blue ice in the valley between the the mountains. The scale was shocking.

The blue tip of the Franz Josef Glacier / Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere, New Zealand's South Island — *The blue tip of the Franz Josef Glacier / Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere, New Zealand’s South Island*

A cool clamminess settled in as we stood there admiring the glacier. It has receded in recent years, and the empty gray riverbed in front of us ghost shadowed where it’d been and where it may again be one day. Rain came. A steady, solid rain. We put our jackets on over our packs and turned to see the long path ahead of us. It was peaceful, walking alone in that moody landscape. The rain stopped about an hour later, and we were almost dry before reaching the hostel.

*The long walk back to Franz Josef from the glacier viewing point, New Zealand*

*Rich colors of lichen covers the river banks alongside the Waiho glacial valley river in Franz Josef.*

That night we rewarded ourselves with a big delicious meal at the Landing, underneath an awning in another rain shower. As we sat there admiring the mountains at the end of the road, and recapping our day, the waitress told us that the town had been advised 4 months ago to move…to pick up the entire town and relocate. Why? Because this sweet little town of Franz Josef sits squarely on top of the volatile Alpine Fault line *and* mostly below river level. Meaning that any earthquake “event” would likely crack the town in half and the Waiho would flood what was left behind. Good luck Franz Josef.

The TranzAlpine over (and under) the Southern Alps

Posted January 18, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Any morning is a good morning for a train ride

We were the first to arrive for the TranzAlpine train to Greymouth. So early in fact, that the Christchurch railway staff kindly offered to share their office coffee as no cafes were open nearby. It was going to be a five-hour trip up and over the spine of New Zealand’s South Island. I sat in the lobby that morning, watching the shade and the sun jockey for position on the platform, and picking at the side of my coffee cup—anxious to move. This is the land of the Southern Alps and blue-gray “braided” rivers, and the scenic train was expected to be full.

Glimpses between noggins on the TranzAlpine train in New Zealand's Southern Alps — *Glimpses between other tourists’ noggins, while on the TranzAlpine train in New Zealand’s Southern Alps 🙂*

And full it was. Everybody was in the viewing car when the train passed into a landscape of dramatic green gorges, with the turquoise Waimakariri River pouring along at the bottom. I’d been standing on the “wrong” side of the viewing car, daydreaming and sniffing at the wind like a dog when I heard the exclamations and gasps. People stood 4 deep on the other side of the open-air viewing car. No one was going to cede a railing spot with that view. I held my camera high over their heads and snapped a few photos—not one lucky. A cloud soon vignetted the view and a soft, sweet rain sparkled down in the full-on sun, over a jade-green gorge and the sky-blue water. I moved away from the crowd, and stepped out into the “between”. There, between the cars, was an open railing, the green gorge, the blue water, and those magical raindrops twinkling down. Thank you gods of New Zealand!

*The braided turquoise Waimakariri River, from the TranzAlpine, South Island, New Zealand*

The turquoise rivers of South Island, New Zealand as seen from the TranzAlpine train — *South Island, New Zealand as seen from the TranzAlpine train*

Sheep run up a green hill from the sound of the TranzAlpine Train, New Zealand — *Sheep run from the sound of the TranzAlpine Train, New Zealand*

*Lone house near the TranzAlpine tracks in New Zealand*

*From the viewing car on the TranzAlpine Train in New Zealand*

Going through the Otira Tunnel

After a while, the train stopped at Arthur’s Pass National Park and almost everyone exited. The train was quiet, the viewing car now empty except for the lucky few of us going on to Greymouth. We were about to enter the Otira Tunnel, a 100-year old, long (5.25 miles) tunnel that takes the train down 820 feet, under the Southern Alps from Arthur’s Pass to Otira. Because of exhaust fumes in the tunnel, the viewing car is closed, the cafe car is closed, and riders are asked to stay seated. We entered the darkness. The mountain walls on either side were very, very close. The train was going slow. Sometimes so slow that it felt as if we had stopped moving, betrayed only by a few bumps, the occasional sounds of metal groaning and screeching, and a sound like a squeegee on a wet windshield. This went on, and on, and on. Having just left Christchurch, thoughts of earthquakes, land shifting up 6 feet, and rockslides began to nibble on the edges of my consciousness.

When we passed out of the tunnel into brightness–an eternity (or 20 minutes) later, it’s as if life came back into the train. Smiles, laughter, we breathed again. I suddenly wanted a glass of wine, and maybe ice cream. I was not the only one. The cafe car had brisk business just after the tunnel.

New Zealand’s West Coast

We were on the West Coast of New Zealand now. The tunnel had taken us to another realm. I sat with my Sauvignon Blanc, and listened to the GPS-triggered history recordings onboard, making notes in my journal. This lush “sub-tropical valley” was “too wet for sheep”, so it was now used for “dairying”. Some seeds were blown here from Australia. And I got chill-bumps when they told the story of the white heron, whose flight one is lucky to see once in a lifetime, or in death (as in, “He flies with the white heron now.”)

*Cows watch as the TranzAlpine train passes, South Island New Zealand*

How lucky I felt that day, on the TranzAlpine train, in beautiful New Zealand. To read more about taking the train in New Zealand, please see this post.

*Carol & Bryan boarding the TranzAlpine in Christchurch*

New Zealand's rugged landscape as seen from the TranzAlpine train — *New Zealand’s rugged landscape as seen from the TranzAlpine train*

You can find my photos for sale here. Thanks for reading!

Christchurch, Earthquakes, and NZ’s Pacific Coast

Posted January 18, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Christchurch, Earthquakes, and New Zealand’s Pacific Coast

It was a six-hour bus ride from the harbor in Picton to Christchurch via the Pacific Coast highway. The railway tracks and this road are on a narrow ledge that outlines the coast, barely separating the water from the mountains swooping down beside us and headed for the sea.

Kaikoura

We stopped halfway at a little seaside town called Kaikoura for a quick meal and walkabout. All roads to Kaikoura had been cut after a 7.8 earthquake and small tsumani hit around midnight on November 14, 2016. The quake lasted an astonishing two minutes. There was movement along 21 different fault lines, and the seabed was shifted upwards six feet, making this the most “complex earthquake ever studied”. Landslides pushed the rail line over and out towards the sea like a piece of toy-train track, guardrails twisted away as if they were no more than bread ties, and the coast road was buried by tons of mountain debris. More than a year later, road work was still underway and the Coastal Pacific train route remains closed. One-lane stretches of highway stopped traffic alongside stacked cargo containers, offering an illusion of holding back the mountains…probably as much protection as a driver’s arm thrown across a front seat passenger in a 70 mph head-on collision. Regardless, I silently thanked New Zealand for the precaution as the earthquake damage became more obvious.

Christchurch

A few hours later on the outskirts of Christchurch, the bus driver announced that the city might look very different to returning visitors. “There are many empty lots where buildings used to be,” he warned. “The quakes changed the city in unimaginable ways.” He was referring to the series of major earthquakes in 2010-2011 that seemed intent on destroying Christchurch.

1) A 7.1 magnitude earthquake hit on September 4, 2010 at 4:35 a.m. This 40-second quake was preceded by a 5.8 foreshock, and followed by four 4.8+ magnitude aftershocks over the next three months.

2) During lunch hour on February 22, 2011, a 10-second earthquake hit. This was “only” a magnitude 6.3 earthquake, but it was significantly more destructive as it hit a shallow fault line closer to Christchurch. One hundred eighty five people died in collapsing buildings, crushed buses, and falling debris. A photograph taken from the hillside above Christchurch just moments after the quake shows a massive dust cloud over the city as many buildings were coming down.

3) June 13, 2011 at 2:20 p.m., a magnitude 6.3 hit the area. It had been preceded 90 minutes before by a 5.6 quake. This earthquake destroyed the landmark ChristChurch Cathedral’s tower and collapsed its west wall. The rose window survived, and steel scaffolding was put in place to stabilize it during restoration.

*The remains of ChristChurch Cathedral, January 2018. New Zealand.*

4) December 23, 2011 at 1:58 p.m., a magnitude 5.8 earthquake rocked Christchurch. Within 80 minutes, two more quakes followed (5.3 at 2:06 p.m. and 6.0 at 3:18 p.m.). The ChristChurch Cathedral’s rose window shattered when the protective beams bent. Critical structural damage compromised restoration potential and like many buildings that year, the city had to consider demolition of the 130-year-old cathedral. For this cathedral in particular, it is an emotionally-charged decision and is still being debated. We were told that an agreement had been made to restore, but no work has begun. Fencing blocks access, weeds grow as if it has always been a field, and pigeons roost on the curved scaffolding where the rose window used to be. Artwork surrounds the plaza, including a living wall of ferns and greenery surrounding a viewing spot in front of the cathedral.

*Greenery and fencing around the ChristChurch Cathedral plaza*

Detail of ferns vertical garden wall around ChristChurch Cathedral viewing area. — *Detail of vertical garden wall with ferns around ChristChurch Cathedral viewing area.*

More than half of the buildings in the central business district fell or had to be demolished because of structural damage. The face of Christchurch changed.

*Cargo containers bolster facades of old buildings in Christchurch*

*Christchurch City Tour Tram passing through a construction zone*

We stayed several nights in the city center: walking around the fencing that surrounds empty lots and the cargo containers that buttress facades of old brick buildings, exploring the ancient trees and vast green spaces in the Botanic Gardens, sampling the food at a number of restaurants and cafes, and everyday, we stopped to sit with the broken ChristChurch Cathedral. It was quiet there, but seemed to be the still-beating heart of the city.

One night as I laid awake on the 11th floor of our Christchurch hotel, and gazed out at the city’s lights, I wondered how they persevere. I cannot imagine this happening to my hometown–how it must hurt the soul to see. These people have seen their beautiful city fall down. Lives lost. Historical buildings destroyed. Tourism stalled. Companies and jobs wiped out. Thousands of residents moved on. Suburbs abandoned. And yet, so many resilient people stayed. They rebuild and re-bloom. There are new shops and bars and restaurants-—serving laughing, happy people. Art exhibits occupy empty lots. It’s a city alive with determination. The people we met were calm, confident, and dedicated to making good lives in the city. I applaud their strength and courage.

*Best vegetarian comfort food I’ve ever had…mac and cheese with fried cauliflower balls. Orleans in Stranges Lane, Christchurch*

*An elderly sequoia in the Botanic Gardens*

Going to New Zealand soon?

If you are going to New Zealand this year, we have unused bus pass hours for two people that we need to sell before they expire in January. We have 17 hours each for 2 people which is a $175 USD or $260 NZD total value. We’re selling the hours for $150 USD total (that’s a savings of about $50 on the equivalent hours if you were to purchase them online). Payment can be made via Paypal, and with a quick name transfer at InterCity.co.nz, the passes will be yours. The pass hours are good for bus or ferry travel completed by January 5, 2019. Comment or message me if you’re interested!

*The beautiful South Island of New Zealand*

There is a well-done video here showing from above the extensive damage along the Coast just after the November 2016 earthquake.

Prints are available for purchase on my Etsy site.

See more photos from our New Zealand travels on Instagram.

Strait, Sounds, and Fog: Riding a Ferry on the 8th Continent

Posted January 16, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Strait, Sounds, and Fog: Riding a Ferry on the 8th Continent

The Cook Strait–where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean–is dangerous and unpredictable water. The Marlborough Sounds are a range of sunken mountains and drowned valleys. And low clouds can obscure everything but the ferry you’re on. This is the story of a ride on the Interislander Ferry, which like a 60-mile calligrapher’s flourish, connects New Zealand’s North and South Islands at Wellington and Picton in 3.5 hours.

InterIslander Ferry Kaitaki — *The Interislander Ferry, Kaitaki*

*Two-story Lookout Lounge on the Interislander Ferry, Kaitaki*

We were on the Kaitaki, a large ferry that carried more than a thousand people and their cars, semi-trucks, and cargo. And yet, we were merely a speck…a dot on the fringes of the Pacific Ocean. I stood on the back of the ferry, looking for albatross, dolphins, and whales who are said to sometimes accompany the ferry across. It was windy out there. And I found myself staring at the wide track we made in the water, a swath of lighter blue, visible behind us for what seemed like miles.

The wake behind the ferry in the ocean — *The wake behind*

*Looking back on the Interislander Ferry*

The fog started like a couple of dandelion puffs floating on the sea. But the wisps got bigger, thicker, now like cotton balls pulled open beside us, and then a wall of thick gray, dead ahead. The ferry entered, there was a mist, and the view all around the boat disappeared as the fog closed up behind us. Surrounded. No view in any direction. Just a quiet cloud, and tiny droplets of rain shimmering in a diffused light. The fog horn sounded. We did not slow down. The ferry was conducting a safety drill, and made an announcement to “abandon ship”. Passengers out on the deck braving the mist and no view, smiled at each other…and took glances up at the lifeboats, just to be sure. Mysterious. Vulnerable. Peaceful. The ship moved on.

Into the cloud — *Passing into the cloud*

On the ferry entering the cloud — *Interislander Ferry: Entering the cloud*

And then it was behind us. We sailed through into blue skies and blue water, and in the distance a wall of green mountains. How did anyone ever find these channels, these sounds, these passageways that brought their ships into safe water? How did they trust to keep going in thick fog? We learned that this space on earth is in fact a continent, the 8th continent and 93% under water. Zealandia it is called. A vast continental plate that was submerged millions of years ago. Today, the steep mountains reach suddenly out of the sea. And our ferry follows an unseen path between them, up through this former river of Zealandia, finding our way to land.

Near and Far mountains in the Marlborough Sounds — *Near and Far in the sunken mountains and drowned valleys of the Marlborough Sounds*

Ridge in the Marlborough Sounds — *Sunken Mountains and Drowned Valleys: Once a river of Zealandia, submerged and taken by the sea.*

If you are going to the 8th continent (aka New Zealand), we have unused ferry/bus pass hours for two people that we need to sell. We have 17 hours each for 2 people, ($260 value). We’re selling the hours for $200. Payment can be made via Paypal, and with a quick name transfer at InterCity.co.nz, the passes will be yours. Travel has to be completed by January 5, 2019. Comment or message me if you’re interested.

Read more about New Zealand here: our stay in AUCKLAND and riding on the NORTHERN EXPLORER TRAIN. Select photos are available on MY ETSY SITE.

A window inside the Interislander Ferry — *From a window inside the Interislander Ferry*

Interislander Ferry: The safety drill in a cloud — *Interislander Ferry: Safety drill in a cloud*

On the soundtrack:

“Everybody says that the living is easy
I can barely see cause my head’s in the way
Tigers walk behind me, they are to remind me that
I’m lost, but I’m not afraid

Soul to soul, A kiss and a sigh
Sawed in half, by the passage of time
Halfway home, from a window you see
Chains and bars, but I am still free”

Excerpt from “Life is Long” by David Byrne and Brian Eno

New Zealand’s Northern Explorer Train

Posted January 15, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

“There isn’t a train I wouldn’t take. No matter where it’s going.” Edna St. Vincent Millay

There is just something about a train. It is said that Mickey Mouse popped out of Walt Disney’s head while on a train from Manhattan to Hollywood, and that Harry Potter and his crew suddenly came to J.K. Rowling on a delayed train from Manchester to London. Maybe it’s the luxury of time to think, to daydream, to watch the homes and backyards, and farms and wide vistas go past, or maybe it’s the soothing rhythm of the wheels on the tracks and the cradle-rocking motion. It’s like stepping back in time to a slower way of living life. Even the most basic train trip bestows these feelings to me. So yes, Edna, I agree!

NEW ZEALAND’S NORTH ISLAND BY TRAIN

In January, we took the Northern Explorer train from Auckland to Wellington. The Northern Explorer is a long-distance passenger train operated by The Great Journeys of New Zealand and KiwiRail on the North Island. The 10-hour train ride took us South to the end of the North Island, through National Park station, over the volcanic mountains, across 25 bridges, through 14 tunnels, and over miles of green fields past many small villages. We liked The Northern Explorer so much, we returned to Auckland from Wellington a few weeks later by train again.

New Zealand's Northern Explorer Train — *The Northern Explorer as seen from the viewing car. North Island, New Zealand*

Here are just a few things I collected while riding the Northern Explorer.

THE NORTHERN EXPLORER IS A GOOD INTRODUCTION TO NEW ZEALAND: PEOPLE & HISTORY

We purchased our tickets online before leaving Chicago. So all we had to do when the big yellow locomotive pulled into the station was get our boarding passes, and hand over our suitcases to ride in the luggage car. The crew were helpful and efficient. They answered any question–about the train or about their country–and all with that Kiwi easy-going good humor.

The train is equipped with a GPS-triggered commentary that is available through free headsets at each seat. This told the stories of the land, the Maori, and the building of the railroad. The Maori fought to keep their native land and sovereignty during New Zealand’s wars in the 1860-70s. At Orakau is where the Maori leaders promised: “We will fight you forever and forever and forever. Ake. Ake. Ake.” According to the train commentary, New Zealand is now “confronting the past and making restitutions.”

*Non-native deer grazing on the North Island in New Zealand*

THE OPEN-AIR VIEWING CAR SUITS THE DOG IN ME

The KiwiRail trains have open-air viewing cars in which passengers can stand to feel New Zealand go by. What a rush to be out there—the wind hard on your face, the sound of the train loud in your ears, and the landscape sweeping by. I spent a lot of time in the viewing car. I felt like a dog, happy in a car window—inhaling the fresh air in big, long, gulping sniffs.

The open window view inside the Northern Explorer's viewing car — *The open window view inside the Northern Explorer’s viewing car*

NEW ZEALAND HAS LOTS OF CARGO CONTAINERS

As we pulled out of Auckland, past backyards and cityscapes, we saw a parking lot of cargo containers stacked high. It was a reminder that this land is isolated, and many items make long ocean journeys to get here. We would see plenty more of these during our time in New Zealand–used as bolsters against earthquake landslides or building collapses, and in a “mall” of container shops.

Cargo Containers stacked high in Auckland, NZ — *Cargo containers stacked high in Auckland, NZ*

THE INNOVATIVE RAURIMU SPIRAL IS NOT REALLY A SPIRAL

The Raurimu Spiral is an engineering feat using natural land contours to go quickly up steep and difficult terrain in Hill Country. It was a very difficult climb to this volcanic plateau. So much so, that when building the railroad here, oxen’s necks were often broken under the strain of carrying supplies up. The “spiral”–which looks more like a plumber’s doodle of elaborate under-the-sink pipes–solved this with a series of hairpin turns, a big loop that goes over itself, and a number of curves. It is said that once in the night, a train driver emergency-braked his train when he mistakenly thought the light of his last car (on a nearby part of the spiral) was the rear of a different train in front of him.

Old train trestle near the Makatote River, Tongariro National Park — *Near the Makatote River, the old trestle in Tongariro National Park*

COWS CAN GALLOP

The train weaved through green valleys and across rolling hills dotted with sheep and cows. Sometimes sheep would stand and stare at the passing train from close proximity. And other times, sheep–and even cows–would run from the noise of the approaching train. I saw cows in full gallop. I never realized cows could hurry.

*The rolling land of North Island, New Zealand*

*Rangitikei River canyon near Mangaweka and Manawatu-Wanganui, New Zealand*

YOU DON’T NEED WIFI

“There is no WiFi onboard. We don’t need WiFi. Neither do you. Look out the window to the left, or to the right. It updates every minute.” I heard a few gasps and sighs at the start of that announcement, and then laughs at the end. And I’m here to tell you, we can survive quite well without WiFi! How enjoyable it was, sitting at the little table with my journal stretched out in front of me, staring at New Zealand’s green beauty going past, writing and sketching, and sipping wine or coffee.

*Fields for days, and one solo sheep, New Zealand from the Northern Explorer. Photo available on Etsy.*

I MISS THE GRAND OLD STATIONS

Wellington’s Bunny Street Station came close to what I expected: an imposing facade with a soaring ceiling over a breezy lobby opening to rows and rows of train platforms. Auckland no longer uses their spectacular “Grand Central” for the Northern Explorer. That train station building has been converted to the Grand Central Apartments. I’m sure it’s a fabulous building to live in, but I got a little jealous when I realized it wasn’t being used for its intended purpose. And remember those train station flip boards showing all the destinations, departure times, and track numbers? I miss them too. I love that sound as their many letters and numbers cascade into place while everyone waits and watches.

Arriving in Wellington's Bunny Street Station on 1/15/18 — *Arriving in Wellington’s Bunny Street Station on 1/15/18*

Boarding The Northern Explorer at Bunny Street Train Station platform in Wellington on 1/28/18. — *Departing Bunny Street Train Station in Wellington on 1/28/18.*

A FEW LAST RANDOM BITS FOR THE CURIOUS

A sheep station = a sheep farm. It took me a little while to realize the “stations” weren’t places for the police or fire departments.
A heart standing still is depressed. This was in my notes from some unknown source. Profoundly sad.
Founded in 1887, New Zealand’s Tongariro National Park is one of the first designated National Parks in the world.
The undersides of Silver Ferns glow at night! They are planted alongside tracks and paths to point the right direction for night walking. Fern fronds are seen everywhere in New Zealand–from plantings, to tattoos, to logos…like the logo on KiwiRail’s train cars!
The train will come to a quick stop when kids are on the railroad-track bridge diving into the Waikato River.

One of the bridges in New Zealand - Looking out the back window of the viewing car on the Northern Explorer train — *Looking out the back window of the viewing car on the Northern Explorer train*

KiwiRail's map of the Northern Explorer's route through the North Island, NZ — *My copy of KiwiRail’s map of the Northern Explorer’s route through the North Island, NZ*

Thanks for reading! I’d love to hear your train stories. Where have you taken a train? What impressed you?

If you liked my photographs here, a few are for sale on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CarolFletcher?ref=si_shop

P.S. This is not a paid advertorial…it is only my opinion of a beautiful way to travel.

Sheep station / Farm on the North Island, New Zealand - as seen from KiwiRail's Northern Explorer Train — *Sheep station / Farm on the North Island, New Zealand – as seen from KiwiRail’s Northern Explorer Train*

Around the World! First stop: Auckland, New Zealand

Posted January 15, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

AROUND THE WORLD!

It had been a decades-long dream to go around the world, traveling slow for a year or more. After all that time wanting to go, all of a sudden, we were cleared for a short version of our dream trip.

Buying RTW tickets

Around-the-world (RTW) tickets with an airline partner mean picking a direction—East or West—and continuing to move in that direction until arriving back home. Purchasing a RTW ticket with an airline means using the chosen airline’s alliance partners and connected cities, but there are many partners and places to choose from and we liked that RTW travelers are in the care of the alliance if a connection is missed or a flight is canceled. And of course, there are all those accumulating air miles.

We picked a West route with American Airlines / One World Alliance. New Zealand would be the first stop, followed by our final continent–Australia! We wanted to make sure we got to the 7th continent early in the trip, just in case we were called home. This timing also lined us up for a tour of India and Nepal in February-March. Tinkering with the handy One World interactive map helped us decide to add Cambodia and Greece. We sat at our dining room table to make the purchase on a day less than two weeks before we were to leave Chicago. We stared across at each other with giddy smiles, floating hearts, and churning stomachs. In only a few minutes, it was done–and we had dates with six countries. We were GOING!

Preparing to leave

Those next 12 days were a whirlwind of arranging. We sorted through things like who would care for the house during a Chicago winter, which countries required visas and where to get them, places to stay and transportation while overseas, and what to take or leave behind. We piled up things to take…and whittled it down. By the day we left, we’d gotten our stuff into just two carry-on bags each—one overhead-bin-sized suitcase and one under-the-seat-in-front-of-you-sized backpack. On Thursday, 1/11/18, a friend dropped us at the el station for the ride to O’Hare and we were on our way.

One suitcase and one backpack each — *Traveling light with only 2 carry-ons each*

FLYING OVER THE DEEP, DARK PACIFIC

Our flight left Chicago on a dark, late afternoon. We flew 4+ hours to LAX and after a 3+ hour layover, boarded the American Airlines flight to Auckland around 11 p.m. PST. How extraordinary things feel when you’re tired! It was like a dream, flying so far from home on that long night. Within a few minutes of taking-off, we left land behind—the lights of Los Angeles shrinking away and the dark, immense Pacific Ocean ahead.

It was an almost 13-hour flight, over nothing but deep, dark water and under a sky full of stars—stars upon stars, and a bright crescent moon smiling down on the water. We passed near small South Pacific Islands and over named trenches and ridges in the ocean, crossing the International Date Line and the Equator. We skipped a day, yet couldn’t outrun the dawn. As we descended through the gray-blue clouds, we first saw New Zealand’s North Island looking like a big, velvety piece of jade sitting in a vast sea of turquoise ink. We landed on the morning of 1/13, about 25 hours after we’d walked out our front door.

flight map over the Pacific Ocean — *Half way around the world. Flight map over the Pacific Ocean.*

Auckland, New Zealand: KIA ORA!

Auckland bookended New Zealand for us. It was a city, much like any other city: people going to work, Starbucks, McDonalds, and traffic—though they drive on the left. We stayed around Queen Street in the heart of the city, near the ferry port, the Sky Tower, several parks, restaurants, and the city’s transit hubs.

Just steps from the airport’s Sky Bus stop, The Scenic Hotel let us check-in early to a bright, L-shaped room with super-fine smelling bathroom toiletries and a small kitchenette. It was a perfect place for our first two days to recover from jet lag, and figure out a few things, like:

$1.40 NZD = $1 USD. It was going to be expensive here.
NZ is 19 hours ahead of Chicago/Nashville. It was easier math to add 5 hours and subtract a day.
WiFi FaceTime calls to Lucy to keep in touch every day.

Walking About

It was hot, humid summer in the Southern hemisphere, and yet, there was a giant Santa and two happy reindeer on Farmers Department Store. Everywhere we walked, we seemed to be in the shadow of the Sky Tower, a Space-Needle-type attraction from which crazy people can bungee and walk the structure’s outside rim on tippy-toes while tethered.

Santa and his Reindeers on Farmers Building — *Santa and his Reindeers on the Farmers Building*

One rainy day, we ducked into the Occidental Bar for coffee. The place is known for its Belgian flair—the mussels and beer keep it busy later in the day. But for us that day, it was empty and welcoming with cozy red velvet curtains, old tile and wood floors, open windows, and excellent coffees. We also discovered Elliott Stables food court, a lovely selection of small restaurants (in what used to be warehouse stalls) surrounding a central dining area. Beautiful light and ambiance made us love the wide variety of tastes at reasonable prices even more. Breakfasts were mostly pastries or some combination of salmon and poached eggs on potatoes or bread. We found small food booths on the street near the hotel and they became a cheaper option for lunches.

Auckland Addendum

When we came back through Auckland a couple of weeks later, we stayed two nights high above the city at the Avani Metropolis. Our room had a balcony, a living room, kitchenette, dining area, and an in-suite washer and dryer. On our last night in New Zealand, we happily did laundry, ordered a pizza, and drank our gift-at-check-in bottle of New Zealand’s finest Sauvignon Blanc on the balcony while listening to the War on Drugs concert happening in the park below.

Hervey Bay and Shelly Beach, Australia

Posted January 4, 2018 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Hervey Bay

The Greyhound bus dropped us in Hervey Bay and we had a long walk to our hotel. Houses and small hotels lined one side of the Esplanade, and on the other side of the road was Shelly Bay, a walking path, park, and beach. I thought it was going to be about a 15 minute walk from the bus stop to the hotel, but it was at least 30 minutes, plus it felt even longer with the heat, the bags, and the audacity of the numbers on Hervey Bay’s Esplanade to be consecutive: 499, 500, 501… As in, “OMG, we still have to walk past another 45 houses!”

Our first hotel in Hervey Bay (Shelly Beach Motel) was clean, cozy with immaculate grounds and beautiful gardens. And we loved Debra, the kind hostess with a trim, tan, stylish look and a brisk, friendly manner. Our room had a balcony overlooking the Esplanade and the bay, and when we opened the doors we got a refreshing cross breeze. We sat on our balcony a lot over the next few days…watching the sandy beach part of our vacation get rained out. Those days in Hervey Bay were nothing but rain, rain, rain.

Shelly (and Snake-y!) Beach

Despite the rain and the heat and humidity during the rain’s breaks, we made a lot of walks—inevitably getting soaked from a new wave of rain, or sweat, or both. We took morning walks on Shelly Beach at dog walking hours and one morning there was a snake on the beach. I thought it was a stick, until it moved. Turns out, sea snakes are poisonous. Twenty-one of the worlds 25 deadliest snakes are found in Australia–and about 25 people are hospitalized in Hervey Bay every summer due to snakebites! Bill Bryson’s “In a Sunburned Country” wasn’t wrong! “Australia has more things that will kill you than anywhere else.”

*Shelly Beach on a rainy morning, the 1/2 mile long Urangan Pier in the distance.*

*Dog walking hour on Shelly Beach, Hervey Bay, Australia.*

*An Australian dog having a rainy morning walk in the surf of Shelly Beach, Hervey Bay.*

*That’s close enough. Sea snake on Shelly Beach, Hervey Bay, Australia.*

We got to know the restaurant Santini’s along the Esplanade. Good Italian food at reasonable prices, but slow—sometimes perfunctory—service as it was always packed. It was here we were taught by a snappy waiter the Australian restaurant lingo:I

booking = reservation
entree = appetizer
main = entree
organize your docket = get your check

”Here in Australia, with nothing to do.”

We spent most of our time during that first stint in Hervey Bay listening to the rain, the birds, and the waves. We watched some movies, read some books, and talked a lot about our lives up to this point over cups of Nescafe and peanut butter sandwiches. We struggled with ourselves on these rainy days, joking ”Here in Australia, with nothing to do.” Even on the other side of the world, on the trip-of-a-lifetime, it was way too easy to sit and watch TV. This boredom, laziness, sluggish fatigue for no-good-reason is terrifying. Ennui turns in me like a cement mixer, sometimes bubbling up as a cold terror of losing mobility, momentum, memory, and health and a burning frustration that I do nothing about it. As I went down that depressing rabbit hole of self-incrimination on a rainy day on the other side of the world, a bird whistled for me. So loud it startled me. Just there, sitting on the balcony railing, looking in the screen door to our room on a pouring rain afternoon, was a curious black and white bird. Again, she sang her tune. It sounded like a person whistling, loud. I leapt up, and then froze–trying to reach my phone or camera without startling her. She cocked her head sideways, looking back at me from not more than five feet away. Eye contact for a second, maybe two. And she was gone, and with it, my wet-blanket mood. My heart felt lighter. II googled “black and white singing bird Hervey Bay Australia” until I found a match…this was the Australian Pied Butcher Bird. I did eventually record one of the birds another day (listen below to the waves and a song):

*The Australia Pied Butcher Bird, Hervey Bay.*

Walking out on the Urangan Pier, Hervey Bay, Australia — *Bryan walking out on the Urangan Pier, Hervey Bay, Australia.*

*Looking back towards Hervey Bay from the end of Urangan Pier, 1/2 mile out!*

We rallied, doing more rain-dodging walks. One morning, we walked all the way out on the long Urangan Pier. Just as we touched the end railing—a 1/2 mile into the bay—the rain came again. We were soaked by the time we got back to the Esplanade, but laughing and happy.

Hervey Bay: Take 2

After Lady Elliot Island, we returned to a sunny Hervey Bay. It was a completely different place. We stayed up the road at Shelly Bay Hotel… which was more like an apartment with a full kitchen and an in-unit washer and dryer (thank goodness, because all our clothes felt beachy–sticky with lotions and sand and sea salt.)

On these days, we explored further around Hervey Bay. I bought a lightweight maxi dress for $29 AUS at the Australian Post Office–trying it on in the back room, surrounded by passport-making supplies and holiday decorations. Hervey Bay was at last without rain, but the shelly, orange beach lost something in comparison to what we knew was only an hour out there. We walked and walked, back and forth on the long beach. The hard sand feeling good on our bare feet, our shadows following and the birds singing.

Lake Tekapo

Pounamu

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Another day, another drive!

Lake Pukaki

Animals of (and not of) New Zealand

Cromwell and the Golden Kiwi

Mt. Cook and Sir Edmund Hillary

Lindis Pass

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Queenstown to Milford Sound

The Divide

Milford Sound

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“South Island roads are different. Allow more time.”

Hostels…at our age?!

So, who is Franz Josef?

Hiking to the Glacier

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Any morning is a good morning for a train ride

Going through the Otira Tunnel

New Zealand’s West Coast

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On the soundtrack:

Excerpt from “Life is Long” by David Byrne and Brian Eno

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Buying RTW tickets

Preparing to leave

Walking About

Auckland Addendum

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Hervey Bay

Shelly (and Snake-y!) Beach

”Here in Australia, with nothing to do.”

Hervey Bay: Take 2

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