pacific ocean

Around the World! First stop: Auckland, New Zealand

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AROUND THE WORLD!

It had been a decades-long dream to go around the world, traveling slow for a year or more. After all that time wanting to go, all of a sudden, we were cleared for a short version of our dream trip.

Buying RTW tickets

Around-the-world (RTW) tickets with an airline partner mean picking a direction—East or West—and continuing to move in that direction until arriving back home. Purchasing a RTW ticket with an airline means using the chosen airline’s alliance partners and connected cities, but there are many partners and places to choose from and we liked that RTW travelers are in the care of the alliance if a connection is missed or a flight is canceled. And of course, there are all those accumulating air miles.

We picked a West route with American Airlines / One World Alliance. New Zealand would be the first stop, followed by our final continent–Australia! We wanted to make sure we got to the 7th continent early in the trip, just in case we were called home. This timing also lined us up for a tour of India and Nepal in February-March. Tinkering with the handy One World interactive map helped us decide to add Cambodia and Greece. We sat at our dining room table to make the purchase on a day less than two weeks before we were to leave Chicago. We stared across at each other with giddy smiles, floating hearts, and churning stomachs. In only a few minutes, it was done–and we had dates with six countries. We were GOING!

Preparing to leave

Those next 12 days were a whirlwind of arranging. We sorted through things like who would care for the house during a Chicago winter, which countries required visas and where to get them, places to stay and transportation while overseas, and what to take or leave behind. We piled up things to take…and whittled it down. By the day we left, we’d gotten our stuff into just two carry-on bags each—one overhead-bin-sized suitcase and one under-the-seat-in-front-of-you-sized backpack. On Thursday, 1/11/18, a friend dropped us at the el station for the ride to O’Hare and we were on our way.

One suitcase and one backpack each
Traveling light with only 2 carry-ons each

FLYING OVER THE DEEP, DARK PACIFIC 

Our flight left Chicago on a dark, late afternoon. We flew 4+ hours to LAX and after a 3+ hour layover, boarded the American Airlines flight to Auckland around 11 p.m. PST. How extraordinary things feel when you’re tired! It was like a dream, flying so far from home on that long night. Within a few minutes of taking-off, we left land behind—the lights of Los Angeles shrinking away and the dark, immense Pacific Ocean ahead.

It was an almost 13-hour flight, over nothing but deep, dark water and under a sky full of stars—stars upon stars, and a bright crescent moon smiling down on the water. We passed near small South Pacific Islands and over named trenches and ridges in the ocean, crossing the International Date Line and the Equator. We skipped a day, yet couldn’t outrun the dawn. As we descended through the gray-blue clouds, we first saw New Zealand’s North Island looking like a big, velvety piece of jade sitting in a vast sea of turquoise ink. We landed on the morning of 1/13, about 25 hours after we’d walked out our front door.

flight map over the Pacific Ocean
Half way around the world. Flight map over the Pacific Ocean.

Auckland, New Zealand:  KIA ORA!

Auckland bookended New Zealand for us. It was a city, much like any other city:  people going to work, Starbucks, McDonalds, and traffic—though they drive on the left. We stayed around Queen Street in the heart of the city, near the ferry port, the Sky Tower, several parks, restaurants, and the city’s transit hubs.

Just steps from the airport’s Sky Bus stop, The Scenic Hotel let us check-in early to a bright, L-shaped room with super-fine smelling bathroom toiletries and a small kitchenette. It was a perfect place for our first two days to recover from jet lag, and figure out a few things, like:

  • $1.40 NZD = $1 USD. It was going to be expensive here.
  • NZ is 19 hours ahead of Chicago/Nashville. It was easier math to add 5 hours and subtract a day.
  • WiFi FaceTime calls to Lucy to keep in touch every day.

Walking About

It was hot, humid summer in the Southern hemisphere, and yet, there was a giant Santa and two happy reindeer on Farmers Department Store. Everywhere we walked, we seemed to be in the shadow of the Sky Tower, a Space-Needle-type attraction from which crazy people can bungee and walk the structure’s outside rim on tippy-toes while tethered.

Santa and his Reindeers on Farmers Building
Santa and his Reindeers on the Farmers Building

One rainy day, we ducked into the Occidental Bar for coffee. The place is known for its Belgian flair—the mussels and beer keep it busy later in the day. But for us that day, it was empty and welcoming with cozy red velvet curtains, old tile and wood floors, open windows, and excellent coffees. We also discovered Elliott Stables food court, a lovely selection of small restaurants (in what used to be warehouse stalls) surrounding a central dining area. Beautiful light and ambiance made us love the wide variety of tastes at reasonable prices even more. Breakfasts were mostly pastries or some combination of salmon and poached eggs on potatoes or bread. We found small food booths on the street near the hotel and they became a cheaper option for lunches.

In the shade of a palm, Auckland
In the shade of a palm, Auckland

Auckland Addendum

When we came back through Auckland a couple of weeks later, we stayed two nights high above the city at the Avani Metropolis. Our room had a balcony, a living room, kitchenette, dining area, and an in-suite washer and dryer. On our last night in New Zealand, we happily did laundry, ordered a pizza, and drank our gift-at-check-in bottle of New Zealand’s finest Sauvignon Blanc on the balcony while listening to the War on Drugs concert happening in the park below.

 

Road Trip: Seattle, the Pacific Ocean, and Portland

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November 12: Roslyn, Washington to Seattle. Starting mileage: 36,363.

Today, we began a three-night whirlwind across the Pacific Northwest. We left Roslyn for one night in Seattle, one night at the Pacific Ocean, and one night in Portland. Despite the overcast skies and the frequent rain squalls, it was not enough time in any one of these places.

Over the Snoqualmie Pass to Seattle

We drove out of Northern Exposure’s Cicely heading west over the Cascade Mountain Range, and passed over Snoqualmie Pass just before a snow storm. First, we would spend a day in Seattle with my step-brother seeing the views from Columbia Center Tower and the Space Needle, riding the Light Rail and Monorail, and catching up over a couple of meals.

snow snoqualmie pass washington
Passing through precipitation in Snoqualmie Pass, Washington. We loved these vistas of water, trees, and the snowy, fog-covered mountains. 
Trees road snow mountains washington snoqualmie pass
Trees hug the road as we passed through Snoqualmie Pass, Washington.
Elliott Bay Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower Seattle Washington
Looking West into Elliott Bay and Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower. Seattle, Washington.
Space needle puget sound columbia Center tower seattle Washington
Looking North at the Space Needle and Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower. Seattle, Washington.
East at I-90's floating bridge across Lake Washington to Mercer Island. From Columbia Center Tower, Seattle, Washington.
Looking East at I-90’s floating bridge across Lake Washington to Mercer Island. From Columbia Center Tower, Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy walking the hills of downtown Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy walking the hills of downtown Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy at the Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
Mama Lucy at the Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
The Space Needle, Seattle, WA
The Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
Neon Monorail sign. Seattle WA
Neon Monorail sign. Seattle WA. Neon looks extra special in this grey, rainy, foggy environment. More NEON Seattle!  More NEON!  🙂
Walrus Arctic Club Seattle Washington
Walruses decorate the Arctic Club Building, in Seattle, Washington. It was built in 1916 for the Arctic Club, a social group for those who gained wealth in Alaska’s Klondike Gold Rush.
Seattle, Washington's Light Rail tunnel
Seattle, Washington’s Light Rail tunnel.

 

November 13: Seattle to Ocean Shores, Washington. Starting mileage: 36,445.

Early the next morning, Mama Lucy and I stopped by Pike’s Place Market for a walk around and a stash of food:  savory potato and cheese pirogies from Piroshky Piroshky, light, fluffy and yummy chocolate croissants from Le Panier, and hot coffee from the very first Starbucks. It’s no wonder Starbucks sprouted in Seattle. Hot coffee tastes extra special in that rainy, foggy environment.

Cargo containers in Seattle, Washington.
Cargo containers lined the side of the interstates around Seattle. Washington. Fascinating to see so many of those cargo ships coming/going from Seattle’s port. Seattle imports furniture parts, aircraft parts, and car parts and exports civilian aircraft, soybeans, and corn. The top three trade partners of Seattle Port are China, Canada, and South Korea (according to USTradeNumbers.com).
Neon inside Pike's Place Market. Seattle, WA.
Neon inside Pike’s Place Market. Seattle, WA. 
Mama Lucy at Public Market / Farmers Market - Pike's Place Seattle, WA.
Mama Lucy at Public Market – Farmers Market – Pike’s Place as the sun tries to come out. Seattle, WA.
Public Market Neon in the Sky at Pike's Place. Seattle, WA
At last, blue skies! Public Market neon sign in a nearly-clear sky at Pike’s Place. Seattle, WA.

 

We left a partly sunny Seattle. Next, we planned to stay an afternoon and night at the Pacific Ocean. I’d researched carefully to find a hotel as close to the ocean as possible so that we could enjoy a walk on the beach and the sounds of the Pacific at night. However, weather reports told us we were driving into a storm.

Ocean Shores and an angry Pacific Ocean

The further west we drove, the darker the skies became. Soon, the wind and the rain came. By the time we reached the northern peninsula separating Gray’s Harbor from the ocean, the wind gusts were punching the car. We marveled at how much the trees lining the road could bend, and drove cautiously past blue signs noting this was a “Tsunami Hazard Area”, and we were on a “Tsunami Evacuation Route”. The Pacific, sometimes visible between houses and forests, was angry, tossing waves high and hard into the shoreline. We pulled in to an empty parking lot at the Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn. The wind nearly blew the door off the car when we got out. Thankfully, we were able to check in early and we tucked in to our cozy room to watch the storm.

Wind swept the grasses; white caps were visible in the fog and mist. This was not a pacified Pacific, but a wide, wild expanse of fury. We sat in our little living room, picnicking on our Pike’s Place market pirogies and croissants. Despite the storm charge in the air, it was a quiet, relaxing afternoon. We read, did laundry, journaled, talked, and daydreamed. We were two of just eighteen guests at the hotel that day. Later, I’d dreamed of waves and flying over mountains like a bird.

Trees and rain, driving from Seattle to Ocean Shores, WA.
Trees and rain, driving into the storm from Seattle to Ocean Shores, WA.
Pouring rain at the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Shores, WA.
Pouring rain at the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Shores, WA.

 

November 14: Ocean Shores, WA to Portland, OR. Starting mileage: 36,596.

Bad road to an angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
Bad road to an angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.

The next morning, the rain seemed to have tapered, but the wind was still raging. Regardless, I walked to the beach to pay respects to the Pacific Ocean…and to thank it for not coming for us during the night. The waves were syncopated, nearly constant and loud. The sand skidded and swirled across the beach. Seagulls sat in forlorn groups near dunes, soaked and caked in muddy sand. I took photos and tried to avoid the sand blasting my eyes and my camera. Sand stung my cheeks, stuck to my hair, and blew into my mouth. The seagulls came closer–one in particular looked like he was asking for help. I wished I’d brought bread. As I took a photo of him with our hotel in the background, the rain returned. There was lightning. I couldn’t hear the thunder for the roar of the Pacific. Turning my back on the wind (but not the ocean!), I pushed my camera into a bag and said “Goodbye” to the Pacific and “Good Luck” to the seagull. I was soaked to the skin by the time I got back to the room.

An angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
An angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
Soaking wet seagull at the Pacific Ocean in Ocean Shores, Washington.
Soaking wet seagull at the Pacific Ocean. Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn in the background. Ocean Shores, Washington.

 

Storm at the Pacific Ocean

Turns out, this windstorm was extremely powerful. Winds were sustained at 30-40 mph and gusted to 60 mph. There was a high surf advisory and “significant beach erosion and wave run-up was possible”. Trees were falling. Power lines were coming down. Heavy rain was coming. We didn’t know all that at the time, and went about packing up and loading out. Mama went down for the luggage cart while I changed into dry clothes. And then, the power went out. A pop, a flicker, then silence.

Oh no, Mama would be in the elevator by now! I grabbed the key and ran out of the room towards the elevator, yelling for her. The place was eerily quiet. I heard no other guests, just the wind whipping the flags and the windows. The hallways were lit only by window light. Doors were closed in places I had not even noticed had doors. The stairwell emergency light was on. Just as I hit the darkened lobby, Mama walked out of the elevator. She’d been stuck in the dark elevator for about two minutes. Thankfully, she’d rung the bell and the receptionist got her out on the ground floor right away. They told us that the power was out because of a lightning strike, and just how bad this storm was. Fortunately, the power was out for only about 30 minutes.

Power outage in the storm at Best Western Lighthouse Suites at Ocean Shores, WA.
Lobby lit by the windows and an emergency lantern during the power outage. Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn at Ocean Shores, WA.

 

On the road to Portland, Oregon

As we drove out of Ocean Shores, we marveled at the raw power of nature, and the fine line this community lived on there next to the powerful Pacific Ocean.

This area of the country has such a fragrant, fresh, stunning beauty because of the trees, mountains, and the rain. However, the logging of trees provides income to the residents. As a result, it is common to see fresh-cut tree logs piled high on semi-trucks, and logs and lumber stacked high at roadside factories. I wondered if the trees along the roads mourned their fallen kin.

Driving from Ocean Shores, Washington to Portland, Oregon
Fresh air and forests line the drive from Ocean Shores, WA to Portland, OR.
Log carrying truck in Oregon Washington Pacific Northwest logging
Alas, this frequent sight, a log-carrying truck in Oregon.
Logging facility in Oregon.
…And, a logging facility in Oregon.
Hairnets for the mountains. Portland, OR.
Hairnets for the mountains. Portland, OR.

 

Finally, we were in Portland for one big reason…to see our friend Tonya and eat at her pizza place, Via Chicago. She makes the pizzas from scratch. If you’re in Portland, you won’t regret stopping by for a tasty Chicago pizza pie.

Tonya Mayhew at Via Chicago. Portland, OR.
Tonya at Via Chicago. Portland, OR.