USA

Road Trip: Washington D.C. to New York City

Posted October 25, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

October 23. Washington D.C. to New York City. Starting Mileage 30,757.

We woke up to a dense D.C. fog. After a light breakfast, we loaded the car, and hit the road for New York City. We had the handy-dandy road atlas, but stillgot tangled in the rainy, foggy morning traffic out of D.C. Even a pull-over for a longer look at the map didn’t help us. Unless you know where you are, it’s difficult to get where you want to go.

Mama’s car was equipped with OnStar and she buzzed them for help. But even they had trouble locating us. While on hold, I opened my iPhone maps and immediately saw where we were, and the road we needed to be on. Duh! The phone! Why hadn’t we been using this all along?! I typed in the address of our next destination, saw the options for directions, chose one, and hit go. And calm, cool, collected Ms. Siri joined us as navigator. Siri did not disappoint–her directions were accurate, and included ample warning for upcoming exits, and even which lanes to use. We learned over the next few days that she was also psychic–knowing where there were hazards, accidents, and traffic and offering us go-around options on the fly. Lesson #5 of this trip: Trust Siri.

It was a day of tunnels, bridges, turnpikes, tolls, and checking off new states. We drove through Maryland eating clementines, and passed under Chesapeake Bay in a long tunnel. After a few short pit-stops / photo-opps in Maryland and Delaware, we entered Pennsylvania and the outskirts of Philadelphia.

A Philly Cheese Steak in South Philly

Several places fell so close to our route that it would be stupid not to go. The first one was the home of the Philly Cheese Steak in Philadelphia.

Mama Lucy loves getting a Philly Cheese Steak at the mall. So, why not stop and get a genuine cheese steak in Philly? We’d read that the inventor of the “cheesesteak”, Pat’s King of Steaks, and their chief competitor, Geno’s Steaks, were close together in a working-class South Philly neighborhood. Thanks to Siri, we drove through Passyunk, where the boxy, row house doors came out onto the sidewalks without stairs or porch accessories, and straight to the scissor-X corner of Pat’s and Geno’s. It was a busy corner. Both places are open 24/7, famous, and popular. We found street parking, the overhead menu, and two windows to order in a time-honored Philly ritual.

At the first window, a tall man leaned down to talk to us. An army of young men were behind him in a cloud of steam, churning out meat sandwiches and fries–the only things on the menu.

“Wit or wit-out?” he asked (for onions).
“Whiz?” (for the cheese choice).
“Just one?” he asked.
“Yes, but two fries and two cokes please.”
“Second window,” he nodded to his right, “$11. Cash only.”

Stepping over three feet to the second window, we ordered two fries and two cokes.”$12, cash.” Done. We waited only a moment and took our tray to the end of an enamel-red picnic table. Mama Lucy said it was the best Philly Cheese Steak ever.

Stopping at Pat's King of Steaks in South Philly to get Mama Lucy a genuine Philly Cheese Steak. — *Stopping at Pat’s King of Steaks in South Philly to get Mama Lucy a genuine Philly Cheese Steak.*

Philly Cheese Steak corner in Philadelphia: Geno's and Pat's face each other on a crazy busy corner. — *Philly Cheese Steak corner in Philadelphia: Geno’s and Pat’s face each other on a crazy busy corner.*

A Philadelphia neighborhood. — *The Philadelphia neighborhood, Passyunk.*

The Atlantic Ocean and the Atlantic City Boardwalk

We took a hard right in Philadelphia, heading out I-76 to the Atlantic City Expressway, and southeast to the Atlantic Ocean. In just a couple of hours, we were standing in front of the Atlantic Ocean. The ocean called to come closer. We walked off the Boardwalk, out across the dry sand, to the wet sand, to where the birds were sifting around in the surf. And there she was, the great Atlantic Ocean on a windy, cloudy day, roaring and splashing and gray.

When we returned to the Boardwalk, the wind eased up. Miles of the wooden boards stretched ahead of us. I had imagined the Boardwalk as it must have looked in its heyday, with a Zoltar to tell me “your wish is granted.” Instead, like so many places around the world, the old is not treasured, taken care of, or protected. Progress plunders on. Development happens. Casinos and modern strip malls replaced many of the beautiful old buildings. These days, rows of cheap souvenir shops and lackluster ice cream parlors line up on the Boardwalk, facing off against the ocean and the beach for tourists’ attention.

Lucy at the Atlantic Ocean at Atlantic City. — *There she is, Ms. Mama Lucy at the Atlantic Ocean in Atlantic City, NJ.*

The Atlantic City Boardwalk. — *The Atlantic City Boardwalk, New Jersey.*

Into New York City

Our agreement for this road trip was that Mama Lucy put in her car, I paid for the hotels, and we split gas and food. I wanted to take care of her car–who, along with Siri, was becoming a major character in our story. I’d searched and searched for the unicorn hotel–a clean, safe place in the budgeted price range, with parking, and close enough to public transportation for a 79-year-old to walk. This is no easy set of criteria. I struck gold in New York with the Best Western Long Island City in Queens. I’d called to confirm there was parking and the hotel clerk had advised me to call on the morning we’d be arriving and they would make sure one of the eight spaces was saved for us. They were true to their word, and after a long day of driving, some shocking toll tallies, and a tense twilight drive on busy, narrow lanes into New York City, we pulled into the hotel’s last skinny parking spot. I think I heard the car and Siri exhale their relief.

The trusty car, in a tight valuable parking space in New York. — *The trusty car, 2nd from the right, parked in a tight valuable space at our New York hotel.*

Lucy in the NYC subway — *With a little help from the hotel desk clerk, we figured out the NYC subway lines.*

October 23-25. New York City.

First, we took the F train from 21st Street Queens Bridge station to W. 4th at Washington Square where we switched to the E train and to the last stop near the World Trade Center.

The 9/11 Memorial

The morning was brisk, but sunny. We walked around the footprints of the twin towers, now a memorial of waterfalls into waterfalls into a black abyss. Wind sprayed water. White roses graced the engraved names of those victims who would have celebrated a birthday today. We touched the cold marble of the 9/11 memorial, tracing a few names with our fingers. Sixteen years before, this space had been under a heap of debris and disbelief. Today, it was quiet, powerful and peaceful.

*Inside the Oculus, New York City. The modern transit hub near the World Trade Center looks like ribs, though others have described it (as seen from the outside) as the clipped wings of a dove.*

Waterfall Ground Zero, World Trade Center memorial NYC — *The water falls and falls, down into an abyss where no bottom can be seen. Ground Zero, World Trade Center memorial.*

Times Square in the Rain

Later in the morning, it began to rain. We stumbled into a cozy little Italian Place for a comfort food lunch before catching a train uptown. The rain may have dampened the day, but it made the lights of Times Square glow. Leave it to Mama Lucy to find an empty folding chair under a construction awning in Times Square during the hardest rain. Huddled there with other tourists and locals, we once again enjoyed an unexpected break–this time under the bright lights, with the big city views.

*Lucy at Radio City Music Hall. At 5’8″, she’s the perfect height to be a Rockette!*

*Lucy hurrying to get out of the rain in Times Square.*

Click to read more about our decision to make this trip, the first stop, and the second leg of our road trip.

Maps and Legends

Finally, some maps of our route from Washington D.C. through Maryland and Delaware to Philadelphia PA, Atlantic City NJ, and into New York City.

Map of our route from Washington D.C. through Maryland. — *Route from Washington D.C. through Maryland.*

Map of our route through Maryland and Delaware. — *Mapped route through Maryland and Delaware.*

Map of our route into Philadelphia. — *The route into Philadelphia.*

Map of our route from Philadelphia PA to Atlantic City NJ and north to NYC. — *After Philadelphia PA–we headed southeast to Atlantic City NJ, and then north to NYC.*

Map of our route into New York City...a $39.25-toll day. — *Last, our route into New York City…a $39.25-toll day.*

Road Trip: Washington D.C.

Posted October 23, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

October 20. Cherokee, NC to Washington D.C. Starting Mileage 30,238.

We drove all day on October 20. From Cherokee, it was a northeasterly route, through ridges and gaps in North Carolina, cutting across the pointing-finger-tip of Tennessee, and following the valleys between the Appalachians, Shenandoah, and Blue Ridge Mountains up through Virginia, and on into Washington D.C. We’d drive over 500 miles this day. First lesson of this adventure: the road is the trip too.

Because of our dilly-dallying in Cherokee in the morning, and a few picturesque stops long the route, we ended up driving in the dark and not arriving at our hotel until after 8 p.m.

In Cherokee, I’d hauled our many bags into the hotel room two-by-two. Same thing loading out. When we arrived into our DC-area hotel, I pulled up out front to unload the bags into the lobby. Mama would wait there with the bags while I parked the car in the garage. When I came up from the garage–dreading, but ready to make at least three trips back and forth to get our bags to our 8th floor room–a nice man behind the counter smiled and said, “Luggage carts are right around that corner.”

What?! Luggage Carts?!?

I sleepwalked around that corner, and saw four of the most beautiful objects parked in front of me–LUGGAGE CARTS! Thick brass arches with hooks across the top for hanging garment bags, wide carpeted flat-beds that would fit at least three bags, and wheels that spun around for amateur maneuvers. I almost skateboarded my chosen one back into the lobby! We stacked ALL of the bags onto the magic luggage cart and drove it like drunks to the elevators.

Dizzy tired and hungry, and giddy about the ease of loading in, I forgot to take a picture of that blessed thing. I should have taken a portrait of each and every one of the magic wheel carts we used for the next seven weeks. Lesson #2 of this trip: Always look for a magic luggage cart and appreciate the invention of wheels.

October 21-23. Washington D.C.

During our days in D.C., we took a tour of the Capitol, saw the Library of Congress, sat on the columns on the porch of the closed Supreme Court, walked the length of the Mall to the Washington Monument one day, and to the Lincoln Memorial and World War II and Vietnam Veterans Memorials the next. We walked and walked and walked. And talked, explored, and learned.

*A bridal party crosses in front of the Capitol Building.*

looking up to the windows of the USA Capitol dome — Detail inside the Capitol Dome. We had arranged for a tour of the Capitol with our Senator’s office. When we arrived, we were asked if we were all there. Mama and I looked at each other and said “uh, yes…” The guy at the desk looked around us and smiled, “I take it you ladies are NOT a party of 40, like this says?”

looking up into the ceiling of the Capitol dome — Looking up in the Capitol Building’s dome. The Capitol Building’s 2nd dome, this cast iron structure was begun in 1855. Abraham Lincoln was inaugurated beneath a half-completed dome in 1861. When the Civil War started, dome construction sat idle for awhile. But Lincoln pressed on and it was completed in 1866–during the Civil War–in a promise that “the Union will go on.”

The Library of Congress lobby — *The Library of Congress’ Great Hall. Established in 1800, the LOC is the oldest federal cultural institution in the United States.*

Library of Congress Reading Room from above — *The Library of Congress Reading Room. The LOC has the largest library collection in the world with more than 167 million items.*

Mama sitting on a column on the Supreme Court porch. — *Mama resting on the Supreme Court porch.*

The importance of parking

It was important during the trip planning to find a hotel with safe parking for the car and close to public transportation so that we could get around with ease. Lucy is nearly 80. And though she gets around good, I didn’t want to wear her out. We walked a lot in Washington D.C. And we also took frequent little breaks–sitting on the Mall, resting by the Kilroy was Here graffiti, and lingering under a tree in Autumn yellow leaves near the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. What peace in those sitting-to-rest times. Lesson #3 of this trip: Sit for a spell. Rest and observe. There was no where else we needed to be, but right there together.

Lucy sitting on a bench on the Mall, washington monument in the background — *We stopped a few times for bench-sitting along the Mall from the Capitol to the Washington Monument.*

Some of the 4,048 stars at the World War II Memorial Washington DC — *Each of the 4,048 golden stars represent 100 Americans who died in World War II.*

Kilroy was Here, graffiti at the World War II Memorial. — *Kilroy was Here. This was popular and familiar graffiti during the 1940s. We found both of the Kilroys, tucked away in the World War II Memorial.*

*Looking back at the reflecting pool towards the Washington Monument from near the Lincoln Memorial.*

Lucy--after climbing the stairs to the Lincoln Memorial, and back down again. — *Lucy–after climbing the stairs to the Lincoln Memorial, and back down again.*

Shadows at the corner in the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. — *Shadows at the corner of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial.*

Arlington National Cemetery

On the final day of our stay in D.C., I was studying the map, and suddenly figured out that we had just enough time to visit Arlington National Cemetery on our way back to the hotel. We hustled, made our connecting train, and made it there in time for the last trolley tour, and the last changing of the guard at the grave of the Unknown Soldier. Silence but for the clicking of heels walking back and forth, standing watch over those soldiers “Known but to God”. And later, we walked in silence up the knoll to the eternal flame and graves of John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis. Poignant places in our nation’s capital. Lesson #4: Life is short. Seize the moments. Cram it in and go, go, go.

The eternal flame at JFK's grave, Arlington National Cemetery. — *The eternal flame at JFK’s grave, Arlington National Cemetery.*

Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Arlington National Cemetery. — At the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Arlington National Cemetery. Guards follow a meticulous routine when watching over the graves: 1) Marches 21 steps south down the 63′ long black mat laid across the Tomb. 2) Turns and faces east, toward the Tomb, for 21 seconds. 3) Turns and faces north, changes weapon to outside shoulder, and waits 21 seconds. 4) Marches 21 steps down the mat. 5) Turns and faces east for 21 seconds. 6) Turns and faces south, changes weapon to outside shoulder, and waits 21 seconds. 7) Repeats the routine until relieved of duty at the Changing of the Guard. During summer/open hours, the guard is changed every 30 minutes. In winter, every hour. After hours, every 2 hours. The mat has to be changed twice a year.

Click these links for more about the start of our road trip, and the merits of going old.

Our route to Washington D.C.

Map of our route from Cherokee NC, north through TN into VA — *Map of our route from Cherokee NC, north through the corner of TN, into VA*

Map of our route through VA, to D.C. — *Map of our route through the valleys of VA, to D.C.*

Road trip: Nashville to Cherokee

Posted October 20, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

THE day was here. Breakfast dishes were done and the house was locked up. The car packed and the rearview mirror arranged. Seat belts on. It was time. We snapped a selfie, posted it to Instagram, and backed out of the driveway. It was 7:20 a.m. on Thursday, October 19, and my mother and I were on our way. It was Day One of our seven-week USA road trip.

*Lucy & Carol in the car, just a moment before our 7:20 a.m. departure. October 19, 2017.*

October 19. Starting mileage: 29,950.

The plan was to go South on backroads down to Estill Springs and then cut East on more backroads, turning North into North Carolina for the Smoky Mountains and Cherokee where we had a reservation for the night.

It was a perfect day for a drive with a Tennessee October-crisp temperature and brilliant sunshine. And it was the perfect time to take a trip. For the last few months, we’d debated, dreamed, deliberated, and finally decided to do it. My last day at work had been an auspicious Friday, October 13 and just a few days after, I’d flown to Tennessee to make final preparations with my mom, Lucy. And now, here we were, on the route. High hopes, nervous energy, a few nagging worries about costs and routes and places to stay, and an awakening feeling of release and relief. We were on our way!

First, Estill Springs

Estill Springs was our first stop. It had to be. It was the place the two of us used to go on annual vacations when money was tight. Years ago, friends of my mom lived there in a nice house surrounded by woods. I have no idea where in Estill Springs their house was. But it felt remote, exotic. Mama and I would always sleep in their attic guest bedroom, eat delicious home-cooked meals in the screened-in porch, and walk among those tall pines. They had a dog, and a boy a little younger than me. We’d play in the woods, ride bikes, and set up little towns to drive Matchbox cars around. I’m not sure how long we stayed on these trips–could have been a long weekend, or a week. Time seemed to relax and spread out a little. Estill Springs is not that far from Nashville. But just like those old vacations, it took a while to get there. We arrived to nothing that looked familiar, and snapped a few shots in front of the only thing we could find that said Estill Springs, the City Hall. And unlike those old vacations, today we kept going.

Onward

I’d gone old school for this trip. The very day Lucy said, “Ok, I’ll go,” I walked to the local travel garb store and bought an oversized Road Atlas, complete with special entries for all the National Parks. In the six weeks from “Ok, I’ll go” to “GO!”, I’d been plotting our course, studying the map, and jotting notes for backroads to other backroads to landmarks and destinations. I intended to bypass the bland major highways as much as possible–though I realized that the interstates were necessary time savers. So, after a few hours of driving old Tennessee roads past fields and cows, and getting twisted up from my written directions, we got on I-24 going southeast. By then, it was time for lunch. And we weren’t even one-third of the way to Cherokee.

Fields & Power Lines, Tennessee — *Fields and power lines, Tennessee.*

As moms will do, Lucy had packed lunch. We stopped at the Nickajack Reservoir – Ladds Rest Area for a picnic. I’ve never seen a prettier rest stop. It was a little island, peaceful. We took our time, letting it all soak in–the warm October sunshine, the reservoir view, the homemade pimento cheese, and the fact that we were on the trip of a lifetime. Even now, that hour at the rest stop is one of my most vivid memories of the trip.

At Ladds Rest Area, Nickajack Reservoir, near Jasper, TN — *At Ladds Rest Area, an island in the Nickajack Reservoir, near Jasper, TN.*

Cherokee, NC

We drove on, and on, and on. Stopping here and there for photos…like at the Ocoee River. Mama knew how to say it–“o-CO-ee”. And when it rolled off her tongue, I remembered that I used to know that. I repeated it out loud and a hundred more times in my head. Just like the time she told me the Obey River near Celina is said “O-bee”–but that’s another story for another day.

Eventually we drove into North Carolina, and found our hotel in Cherokee just before dark.

This first night tested us. There was the checking in and getting a key that didn’t work. And then there was the unloading–lots of suitcases, a bag of food, and a cooler. We discovered we wanted to do different things. We both worried about the money. And we’d lost an hour of daylight moving from Central to Eastern time zone. Lucy wanted to see the casino. I wanted to go into the Smokies. But it was silly money to park at the casino and then there were no spaces. And it was too dark to drive up into the mountains. We were hungry and didn’t know where to go to eat–couldn’t even decide what we wanted. We settled on a cheap fast food dinner and early turn-in. Of all the nights for rambunctious kids to be anywhere near me, they were in the room above ours–jumping on their beds and screaming until we–at last–heard water running and their mom call “Bath time!” If playtime continued after bath time, I didn’t hear it.

October 20. Starting mileage 30,238.

The next morning after loading up, we stopped for a buffet breakfast with pancakes. Buoyed by the comfort food and a fresh day starting far from our routines, we idled around Cherokee. We wandered around an old stone church, noted that the street signs were in Cherokee and English, and poked around a few souvenir shops. Years and years ago, I remember coming to the Smoky Mountains with both Mama and Daddy. I don’t think the souvenir options have changed much in all that time–play tomahawks, tiny doll papooses, suede moccasins, and little hand-carved trinkets, alongside boiled peanuts, birdhouses, and mesmerizing spinning yard ornaments and wind chimes.

After a couple of hours dallying around Cherokee, we headed north for Washington D.C. Yes, we’d like more time in Cherokee–to see the old settlements in Cherokee Nation, play at the casino, and use the National Park pass to see the Smoky Mountains. But the sun was out, our worries lifted, and today’s long road stretched out before us.

In Cherokee, North Carolina, road signs are in Cherokee and English. — In Cherokee Nation, NC road signs are in Cherokee and English. In the early 1800s, Sequoyah began creating a system of writing the spoken Cherokee language. Today, the Cherokee language is “severely endangered” in North Carolina, and “definitely endangered” in Oklahoma according to UNESCO.

*Four of the Seven Clans of Cherokee. The seven clans: Wolf, Deer, Blue, Long Hair, Wild Potato, Bird, and Paint. 🙂 The names alone explain some things!*

*The first of many times we saw scorched trees. Cherokee, NC.*

*Leaving Cherokee Nation. October 20, 2017.*

*A valley somewhere in the Southern Appalachians, NC to D.C.*

*Tennessee map: Our highlighted route from Nashville to NC.*

North Carolina Map: Our route from TN to Cherokee, NC. — *North Carolina detail map: Our route from TN into Cherokee, NC.*

Three quiet October days in Telluride

Posted November 10, 2013 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Three quiet October days in Telluride. The place holds a special place in my heart.

I first visited Telluride on a media trip in 1999, just a couple of weeks after my Grandmother passed away. I was tired. My heart hurt from crying. And I ached to see her again, to talk to her some more…just a little more. While the rest of the group skied, I spent time in solitude…staring at the mountains. And in those moments, I found a peace that comforts me to this day.

So, when I realized that I’d be within a 6 hour drive of Telluride just a few days before my birthday, I decided to return.

The “6 hour drive” from Santa Fe turned into an 8 hour drive because I stopped so many times to admire the wide open spaces and the long winding roads through the pueblos and reservations of New Mexico.

I arrived in Mountain Village just before dark, threw my stuff in the room, and took the first of about a dozen gondola rides up and over the mountain into beautiful little Telluride.

Peace on the Mountain

I would spend only 3 nights there–waiting for the sun to rise and set on the mountain top, soaking up the sun on the streets of Telluride or my sweet little balcony, walking the side streets and trails with my camera, looking for the even-numbered magpies, sketching and writing in the coffee shops, and savoring a little time in the spa. Good days.

Make a Map: Things to do in the coffee shop

The gondola goes from Mountain Village up and over the mountain to Telluride in about 15 magic minutes.

Waiting for the sun to set on the mountain top...October 6, 2013. — Waiting for the sun to set on the mountain top…October 6, 2013.

131007_0658 — Pre-dawn ride to the Mountain top…October 7, 2013

131007_0802 — Sunrise…on Telluride’s Mountain…October 7, 2013

Another year around the sun

On my birthday, I was on the first gondola to the mountain top. I walked across the ridge waiting for the sunrise, my boots crunching the frosted grass. Three elk stopped about 50 feet in front of me. I could see their breath clouds. After a silent few minutes of mutual acknowledgement, they returned to grazing and I to walking. I heard their antlers tapping together a few minutes later and turned to see two of them playing like puppies on the mountain side. Just after sunrise, I called my mother and father from the mountain top. I talked to several friends that day, had a massage, enjoyed some home-made ice cream and had a perfect little day. And as I went back over the mountain the final time that evening in the quiet dark of my own gondola, I whispered a few things to my precious grandmother.

Telluride from the gondola in the deep quiet solitude of the mountainside.

I drove out of Telluride in the still pitch-black morning…at one point, I heard hooves clicking and clacking on the road. Eyes glistening in the dark indicated it was a family of deer. They ran alongside my car, for just a minute, on that winding mountain road. Ah, Telluride…I’ll be back!

Six weeks in the Fall…68 hours in Seattle

Posted November 6, 2013 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

I’m am woefully behind in posting some of the things I’ve been working on these past six weeks. But I can’t be too sorry as it has been an extraordinary time filled with little journeys. Two weeks ago today, I returned from my first visit to my 32nd state, Washington. Things that impressed me?

The low, dense fog that covered the city when we landed. I thought it was a cloud. But upon clearing it, we were seconds from the runway.

The neon in the Public Market!

131021_2374 — The bright neon signs welcome early morning shoppers in the Public Market

Post Alley on the hill going down to the market and waterfront

The gum wall in an artsy/gummy alley. How exactly does this kind of thing get started and “go viral”?

131021_2558 — The gum wall…yes, all of that is used chewing gum…

The Starbucks mother-ship…for my coffee-like blood, this was like mecca! Put this coffee with one of the chocolate croissants from Le Panier and a potato and cheese pastry from Piroshky Piroshky Bakery, and a bite of fresh made cheese from Beecher’s…and well, I could have stayed there all day.

The bar called Canon. Beautiful. Extraordinary light and atmosphere.

And last but not least? Where was that mountain?! The fog was thick for 3 days. I told friends that the only way I could possibly see that mountain was if I was standing on it. On the flight back home…I thought I had missed it, had sat on the wrong side of the plane…but lucky me! The plane did a U-turn and as soon as the wings leveled off…there it was! Mt. Rainier…massive, majestic!

Thank you Seattle!

Sailing Lake Michigan on the Tall Ship HMS Bounty

Posted August 24, 2010 by Carol Fletcher

Sailing Lake Michigan on the tall ship, The HMS Bounty – August 2010

Lately, we’ve been a little obsessed with tall ships–the beauty of the sails and the awe of the masts’ heights. So, we booked passage on a tall ship as it made it’s way to Chicago for the Tall Ships Parade and festival. Our ship was the HMS Bounty. The Bounty was built in the 60s for “Mutiny on the Bounty”. It also had a part in the “Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man’s Chest”.

Getting to the HMS Bounty

Our journey began on Sunday, August 22, 2010. We loaded up the backpacks and took the el into the loop, walking over to Union Station. We had tickets on Amtrak’s Hiawatha Express to Milwaukee. The Bounty was currently in Port Washington, WI and we were to meet her there.

We had to stop first to see the Great Hall at Union Station, famous to us from the scene in the Untouchables where Kevin Costner and Andy Garcia get Capone’s accountant and save the baby in the carriage during the shoot out. Such a Great Hall it is too. I wish the days of train travel were still just as cool as that Hall reminds us.

$22 one way/each. And packed to the gills on this Sunday afternoon. The ride was only an hour and a half, past the rail yards and the loop, into the suburbs, and with just a glimpse of the midwestern prairie before reentering Milwaukee’s suburbs.

Next step was to find transportation to Port Washington. Bryan negotiated $50 for a cab to take us there…only about 30 miles north. Arrived at the quaint little town on a crisp, sunny day around 3:30 in the afternoon. Stopped for a drink and a bite at a pub sitting just above the little festival. And there they were…the masts of the Tall Ships sticking up above everything else in the harbor.

*HMS Bounty docked in Port Washington WI*

On board the HMS Bounty:

*The lady on the front of the HMS Bounty*

We boarded, met some of the crew and got the introduction to life on board the Bounty. The crew works 2 shifts per day…broken into 4 hour increments. 12-4, 4-8 and 8-12. AM or PM, doesn’t matter, you work 12a-4a and again noon-4pm. We got the 8-12 shifts, though not required to do them seeing as how we’d paid $125/night per person and brought our own bedding to be aboard.

The captain began prepping for departure in the morning on Monday, 8/23. He started by quizzing the crew on “how would we sail out of here…no motor?” We were docked between 2 other ships and the wind was light, but in the wrong direction vs what we needed. Lots of debate and discussion about the location of the anchor, the direction of the sails, and the ruddering to avoid the dock, the other ships and squeezing through the breakers.

Captain Robin Walbridge, "how would we sail out of here, no motor?" — *Captain Robin Walbridge, “how would we sail out of here, no motor?”*

Anchor up and sails down around noon as we pulled out of the harbor. The crew climbed the ropes and unfurled the sails from high above deck. “Ease Out and Haul Away!” “Two. Six. Two. Six.” “Don’t give any back.”

Miles and miles of rope, reaching up to the sails and wrapped around pegs on deck. There’s a special way to coil the ropes so that they are “belayed”–neatly stowed, but ready to go. I heard terms like mizen, bosun (the boatswain, responsible for the rigging), mainsail (said man-sail). I watched people tie-off knots and climb like monkeys up the rigging and then stand like tight-rope artists on a rope while folding and unfolding sails.

*Bryan on the rigging of the HMS Bounty*

And holy cow…what a gorgeous sight when those buttery yellow sails came down and caught the wind! The sheer height of them stretching into the blue sky and catching the sun behind them so that only rays peered around. They covered the ship in shade. Life got quiet once we sailed. Work began on tarring the ropes and finishing a yard.

I sat in the sun–staring up at the sails and snapping away. Bryan got harnessed up and climbed the ropes into the crow’s nest. A long peaceful day of sailing–quiet, breezey, and a warming sun.

*Bryan coming down the rigging on the Bounty*

*Carol on deck, taken by Bryan up in the rigging of the Bounty*

*The wheel, deck and sails of the Bounty*

Golden Hour was about the best ever. The golden orange on the wooden deck floors, the passing colors over the parchment and butter sails. The moon rising in a baby blue sky. A Maxfield Parrish sky as the green sailing lights were lit beneath the sails. The white of the sails against the darkening blue sky as the crew climbed up to lower the royals for the night. Magic. Just magic.

That evening, we took a juice with our flask of rum and had a nip. And slept like babies with the gentle rocking of the boat, with the rum and the day of sun easing us to sleep.

I should mention Dina and the galley. This woman cooks 3 meals a day in a galley where everything moves. She made bacon, waffles, eggs, roast pork, etc. over the 2 days we were there. Delicious food. Everyone washes their own plates. Those on duty pass the line and someone else washes for them. Coffee is always available.

I awoke before dawn. Dark and cold on deck. Red, safety lights lighting the galley and the navigation shed on deck. It was a cloudy morning, trying to spit some rain. Fortunately for us, it never mustered the strength and the day turned into another sunny, cooler day.

*Early morning on deck of the HMS Bounty*

Today, we watched as the crew hung the yard on the stern mast. A process that took over an hour, with 3 crew members up in the rigging.

As we entered the Chicago area around 1:30, we could see Evanston, and then the skyscrapers of downtown Chicago. The crew was getting excited…some of them had never been to a city this size before.

Sailing into Chicago — *Bryan works the sails on the HMS Bounty as it sails into Chicago*

Arrival in Chicago and the Tall Ship Parade:

Small boats approached us–“Welcome!” they’d shout and snap some pictures of the giant Bounty. As we entered the Chicago area proper, more tall ships arrived too…as did more small sailing boats and motor boats and coast guard and police and fire boats. Everyone who had a boat appeared to be in the area between 2-5p as the tall ships arrived. We tooled around waiting for all the tall ships to arrive so we could line up for the 4 p.m. Parade into Navy Pier.

A gilligan boat brought 3 “media” guys to the Bounty to do stories. They had trouble getting close enough to climb up and over. But finally made it. One guy came with a 1960 National Geographic and asked about the original nail from the original Bounty that was supposed to be on ship somewhere. Jesse calmly and without drama told the guy that the nail was in the scrapyard. Broke his heart, that did.

It was crazy crowded in the water. The Coast Guard and Police boats had megaphones and kept announcing “PLEASE STAY 100 YARDS AWAY FROM THE TALL SHIPS”. Still, some sailboats passed dangerously close–perhaps not realizing that we could not turn or stop quickly enough to avoid hitting them if something happened. It’s amazing how many boats were around us–and how many of them I snapped taking pictures of us.

Around 4, we began lining up. Our Bounty was the finale, behind the Flagship Niagra. We sailed into the breakers and past a crowded Navy Pier. Ships firing whatever “cannons” they had on board in a salute to Chicago. And the Chicago Fire Department boat giving us a water cannon salute as we turned and headed back out of the breakers to drop sails. Really proud moments…the city looked beautiful, the ships were amazing and seeing this all from the deck of the best ship of them all was too much! 🙂

Photo by Dan Kasberger - 8/24/10: HMS Bounty II with full sails on Lake Michigan near the Port of Chicago for the 2010 Great Lake Tall Ship Challenge. She sails no more. Strike the Bell slowly.... — *Photo by Dan Kasberger – 8/24/10: HMS Bounty II with full sails on Lake Michigan near the Port of Chicago for the 2010 Great Lake Tall Ship Challenge.*

We motored around while the sails were furled, and then we entered the breakers again as the sun was going down, and made our way over to our dock on the North side of Navy Pier. I heard the Navy Pier dock crew ask over the radio if we needed a guiding boat to dock. The Bounty captain politely declined. As did Niagra. We motored past the lighthouse as the light turned it pink.

Chicago Fire Department's water cannon salute — *Chicago Fire Department’s water cannon salute*

Again, people welcomed us and clapped from the dock. The crew threw ropes over so the little navy kids could catch them and tie us off. The docking process took maybe 20-30 minutes as we eased into the space and tied off. Bryan exited quickly…he was already nearly 2 hours late for work. I left about 30 minutes later. I turned in the near dark to take one last photo of the Bounty resting at dock.

POSTSCRIPT 10/30/12: She sails no more. Strike the Bell slowly….

On 25 October 2012, to avoid Hurricane Sandy, the Bounty left New London, Connecticut, heading for St. Petersburg, Florida. “A ship is safer at sea,” wrote Captain Robin Walbridge. Initially the Bounty was going on an easterly course to avoid Hurricane Sandy. Later, the ship would turn towards the category II hurricane, which was not turning towards land as had been expected. According to crew, The Bounty was motor sailing—using engines and sails. “We were moving as fast as I’ve ever seen the boat move under power,” said shipmate Faunt. “We worked those engines hard.” Waves grew to 20 feet, wind was gusting at 70 mph and it took two people to hold the wheel.

The initial request for Coast Guard assistance was sent in an email by the captain to the vessel’s organization. At about 8:45 p.m. EDT on 10/28, the organization relayed the request to the Coast Guard about Bounty’s situation. The ship was taking on water, had lost electrical power due to water flooding the starboard generator, and the crew was preparing to abandon ship. Some of the 16 people on board had been injured from being thrown about by the crashing waves.

The C-130 rescue plane had equipment outages on its rescue flight, including its anti-icing system and its weather radar, and because of the turbulence caused by the Hurricane, the crew was sick. Because of the poor visibility conditions, the pilots conducted the search at approximately 500 feet in an attempt to locate the vessel visually. Shortly after midnight on 29 October, the Bounty was discovered. “I see a giant pirate ship in the middle of a hurricane.”

Photo from Wikipedia - 10/29/12: Bounty with decks awash in the Atlantic Ocean during Hurricane Sandy shortly before sinking approximately 90 miles southeast of Hatteras, North Carolina. — *Photo from Wikipedia – 10/29/12: Bounty with decks awash in the Atlantic Ocean during Hurricane Sandy shortly before sinking approximately 90 miles southeast of Hatteras, North Carolina.*

Bounty was listing at about a 45 degree angle on its starboard side. The plane dropped life-rafts but had to leave the vessel and crew on their own in rough seas and 58 mph winds because they ran low on fuel. It would be more than an hour until the first Jayhawk helicopter arrived to begin the dangerous rescue attempt around dawn. The storm had washed the captain and two crew overboard—one of the latter had made it to a life-raft, but the other two were missing. Claudene Christian, one of the two missing crew members and who claimed to be related to HMS Bounty mutineer Fletcher Christian, was found by the Coast Guard. She was unresponsive, and later pronounced dead at a hospital. The other missing crew member was long-time captain, Robin Walbridge.

A formal investigation into the sinking concluded that Captain Walbridge’s decision to sail the ship into the path of Hurricane Sandy was the cause, a “reckless decision”. The ship had persistent problems with leakage, “bondo Bounty” some would say. But the ship was considered to be “in the best shape of her life” in October 2012. Walbridge had tempted fate before. In each instance, some combination of bravado, skill, and luck had returned the ship home safely.

Captain Robin Walbridge’s body was never found.

Miami Beach

Posted November 7, 2007 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Wednesday, November 7, 2007 from Miami, FL

Got here safely yesterday afternoon and hit the beach for about an hour. Killer daiquri, great dinner and early to bed.

So, what do we say about Miami Beach? Small dogs with sequined sweaters. Thongs–Thankfully NOT on dogs. Hummers. Too many air conditioners. Nothing–not even the Starbucks–opens before 7 a.m. Well, we did find one Starbucks open at 6:30…a white rooster (on a bike) outside cock-a-doodle-doo’d for us too.

On the beach this morning at 8 a.m. Breezy, sunny, high 70s. Think we got a little sun. 🙂

Wasting time in a Starbucks in trendy Miami Beach…a few blocks from our Hotel Marseilles. Sad to be so jaded…but it’s “just” Florida–we are so anxious for the Antarctic. 😉

Got to be at the airport soon for an overnight flight to Santiago.

That should be fun. 8 hour 20 minute flight. And Bryan’s already restless–getting up to wander 3 times in just 3 hours on the beach. Atlantic Ocean today, crossing the Equator tonight and will see the Pacific Ocean tomorrow. Cool. Thanks to you all for your nice notes!

Hope to keep you posted.
Love, Carol and Bryan

Love the colors…San Juan, Puerto Rico

Posted February 7, 2007 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico! I only had 1.5 days there for a meeting (February 6-8, 2007). But no complaining about that! It was 80 degrees and sunny (vs. 10 and snowing back in Chicago!) I got about two hours to roam and take photos. Somehow, I lost the very first Blackberry I ever had. I’d had it for less than 5 weeks. Oy!

I wandered around admiring the colors, and the dark, inky-black brick streets.

I stumbled around snapping picture-after-picture of all the buildings. Like crayons in a box, so many colors–bright or faded, some roofless, some with ferns gracing the balconies, some with comforting yet exotic lights on inside. And then I saw the reflection of the church in a window.

Found a pigeon park…I’ve never seen so many pigeons in one place. Cooing. Walking, Watching. Waiting. They parted slightly to allow you to walk through their masses. If you bought food from the vendor, you were mobbed!

Old San Juan during the golden hour right before twilight is simply amazing. Great old buildings with fantastic colors. I was dumbstuck by the colors and the light. And it smelled like somebody was cooking something good right around the corner…

6 hours on the Road for 5 hours in Memphis, TN

Posted April 28, 2006 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Five hours in Memphis, Tennessee on Friday, April 28, 2006

This quick trip was designed around 3 things: the Maxfield Parrish exhibit at the Brooks Museum, Sun Studios and BBQ ribs.

We left Nashville around 8 a.m. on a Friday and pulled into Memphis a clean 3 hours later. First stop, the Brooks Museum to see the Maxfield Parrish exhibit.

Maxfield Parrish’s work is a wonder of colors and details. It’s full, dreamy, magical. Blues of every nuance…and that’s just the mass produced prints. Standing in front of the actual 1922 Daybreak oil on panel was like looking into a window of heaven. Blue, violet, periwinkle, cerulean, lavender, mauve and the light. It was as stunning 10 feet away as it was with my nose nearly pressed against the glass.

Some things I learned: Parrish never mixed colors, he instead painted in layers–60+ sometimes–layering in gouache, glaze and more color. He photographed friends and family in the poses and then sketched them onto his paintings to get the details. And he kept rocks in his studio to “model” for the backgrounds. He was a perfectionist with an eye for light, color and nature–and a keen sense of humor. He aspired to be considered more a fine art creator versus being the illustrator.

Next stop was Sun Studios: recording home to Elvis Presley, Carl Perkins, Jerry Lee Lewis and Johnny Cash during the 1950s. The studio tour starts with a memorabilia tour next door. They have early recording equipment, scratchy recordings of Howlin Wolf, Elvis, Johnny Cash and more. Plus, they have Elvis’ social security card and high school diploma (on loan from Graceland), and some pre Ed Sullivan video of Elvis’ hip shaking. Back downstairs, you enter the Sun Studio reception room from the side. The studio itself is behind the reception room. It’s much smaller than I’d imagined. But not so difficult to imagine a young Elvis coming in one afternoon to record a song for his mother. The very intuitive receptionist, running the studio solo that afternoon, smartly made a copy of Elvis’ first recording for her boss Sam Phillips. It’s the stuff of legends! Old microphones, pianos, photos, and guitars line the walls. And it is still a recording studio…for $75/hour, you too can record at Sun!

Next stop, Blues City Cafe on Beale St. for ribs. A no-nonsense kind of place with huge portions. The full rack of ribs was moderately priced and some of the meatiest ribs we’ve ever seen.

We walked down a few blocks to pay our respects to the mighty Mississippi River and then headed east on I-40 back to Nashville. Wishing we could have spent the night on Beale St…they were gearing up for that music in the streets. Next time…

Washington DC for Bryan’s Birthday

Posted April 22, 2006 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

Washington DC

For Bryan’s birthday, we went to Washington DC. We stayed in a Bed and Breakfast in Dupont Circle and spent a lot of time riding the subway and walking around to absorb the place.

From the Washington Monument lawn, we saw the President’s helicopter land on the White House lawn…escorted by a few other helicopters and with several sharpshooters positioned around the rooftops.

The Lincoln Memorial…he’s got a great view.

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial: subtle story in the escalation of the wall’s height as it digs into the earth. The names are in chronological order by date of death. Stunning volume of names.

*The Vietnam Veterans Memorial, at the beginning before escalation*

*The Vietnam Veterans Memorial, at the height and turn*

The U.S. Capital: We contacted our congressman for an escorted tour, and it saved buckets of time. We tried whispering in the whispering spot in the old Senate chamber. The House of Representatives chamber is smaller than it looks on TV. But we got to sit in the upstairs galley, like the President’s family! And we learned that on CSPAN, when you see someone up at the podium speaking, he/she may or may not actually have an audience in the room…Speaking on camera there is a way to go on record, but it doesn’t mean they got to call a meeting!

The Supreme Court: nine chairs facing the door. And next door to the Library of Congress.

The museums: In the darkened Archives museum we saw The Declaration of Independence, The Constitution, The Bill of Rights, one of the last surviving Magna Cartas, and Nixon’s resignation letter.

Other museums: a room full of shoes from the Holocaust victims, Lincoln’s assassination night clothes and the gun that killed him locked into the same display case, the 1812 flag that inspired Francis Scott Key to write The Star Spangled Banner stretched out for some TLC, the Spirit of St. Louis plane dangled from a ceiling, a moon rock waiting to be petted, Dorothy’s Ruby Red slippers from the Wizard of Oz, Jackie’s pearls, Fonzie’s jacket, Archie and Edith’s chairs…it is a treasure trove of history, of culture, of inspiring things and of events we ought never see again. Light a candle in the Hall of Remembrance.

*Ford Theater Box where Lincoln was shot*

Judy Garland's Wizard of Oz shoes — *Judy Garland’s Wizard of Oz shoes, “There’s no place like home!”*

Washington National Cathedral: We tried to identify the flags as we walked the two miles up Embassy Row. At the Cathedral, we heard the peal bells but not the 10,000+ pipe organ. The church welcomes all–the Dalai Lama has spoken here, and Buddhist prayer beads and Jewish menorahs are sold in the gift shop. I didn’t see Islamic items–but I’m sure they are there! Helen Keller is interred in the lower level.

Bryan watches helicopters in DC — *Bryan watches helicopter landing in DC*

Georgetown’s Bistro Francias has great ambiance and tasty food. The New Orleans place in Adams Morgan is good for gumbo. Ethiopian restaurants abound. We could have stayed a month and not seen it all. One day we’ll go back…or move here!

Traveler, dog lover, photographer, writer

USA

Road Trip: Washington D.C. to New York City

October 23. Washington D.C. to New York City. Starting Mileage 30,757.

A Philly Cheese Steak in South Philly

The Atlantic Ocean and the Atlantic City Boardwalk

Into New York City

October 23-25. New York City.

The 9/11 Memorial

Times Square in the Rain

Maps and Legends

Road Trip: Washington D.C.

What?! Luggage Carts?!?

October 21-23. Washington D.C.

The importance of parking

Arlington National Cemetery

Our route to Washington D.C.

Road trip: Nashville to Cherokee

October 19. Starting mileage: 29,950.

First, Estill Springs

Onward

Cherokee, NC

October 20. Starting mileage 30,238.

Three quiet October days in Telluride

Three quiet October days in Telluride. The place holds a special place in my heart.

Peace on the Mountain

Another year around the sun

Six weeks in the Fall…68 hours in Seattle

Sailing Lake Michigan on the Tall Ship HMS Bounty

Miami Beach

Love the colors…San Juan, Puerto Rico

6 hours on the Road for 5 hours in Memphis, TN

Washington DC for Bryan’s Birthday

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October 23. Washington D.C. to New York City. Starting Mileage 30,757.

A Philly Cheese Steak in South Philly

The Atlantic Ocean and the Atlantic City Boardwalk

Into New York City

October 23-25. New York City.

The 9/11 Memorial

Times Square in the Rain

Maps and Legends

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What?! Luggage Carts?!?

October 21-23. Washington D.C.

The importance of parking

Arlington National Cemetery

Our route to Washington D.C.

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October 19. Starting mileage: 29,950.

First, Estill Springs

Onward

Cherokee, NC

October 20. Starting mileage 30,238.

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Three quiet October days in Telluride. The place holds a special place in my heart.

Peace on the Mountain

Another year around the sun

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