Up is Down: Sailing the Nile
Egypt is confusing. The Nile runs north, so up (going North on the map) is down (sailing with the river’s current). Upper Egypt is down South. Lower Egypt is up North.
A satellite image of Egypt clearly shows the Nile valley flowing all the way through the country until it empties into the Mediterranean. Orange fills the map–the Sahara, the world’s biggest desert. And the Nile, the world’s longest river, is a green stem cutting through Egypt. At the top, the fertile delta fans out like a papyrus leaf.
The Nile (and her two major tributaries the White Nile and Blue Nile) stretches 4,130 miles through eleven African countries: Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi, the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kenya, Ethiopia, Eritrea, South Sudan, Sudan, and Egypt. And the Nile shows up in the Bible as the setting for Moses, Joseph, plagues, and the exodus. To touch the water of the Nile is to touch ancient history and the African lands so far away.
The Felucca
Old etchings and photos of the Nile almost always show the little sailboats with the large triangular sails…feluccas. A boat seemingly from another era, ancient times.
We boarded a felucca in Aswan for a day of sailing the Nile. We’d also spend the night on “The Jewel of the Nile”. Our small boat held 8 passengers and 2 crew. A platform of colorful kilim bed cushions filled the platform and our suitcases were filed under. A tarp overhead made it impossible to stand up (good idea to stay seated anyway), and it shielded us from the hot Egyptian sun. Shoes off and into a plastic laundry basket, our important items placed down the center line of the boat, and we pushed off.
Sailing on the Nile: Life in another time
I was ready for the quiet. Observing life on the green banks. Birds, horses, cows, kids, farms…does life along the Nile look much the same now as it did 3,000 years ago? The river is wide and clean. Slow moving.
A breeze. The sun. The smell of water. Distant sounds of people and animals along the banks. And some restless and bored people on board who chattered and stayed on their phones for much of the ride.
We stopped for lunch and some swam. A sandy beach, a stray dog. I watched a man so very carefully spreading a towel on the beach and displaying his jewelry and Egyptian knick-knacks for sale. Back on the boat, we settled in again… this time with the quiet. Writing, sketching, napping, watching life go by. Absorbing the time.
Docked for the Night
The sunset. Golden. After, the Nile horizon turned soft pink and periwinkle. At last, the stars. Black night, dark water, lights on the opposite shore. Large boats–floating hotels–cruised by.
We docked, alongside a couple of other feluccas of tourists and a “service boat” where we would dine and could shower. I took my journal and headed for a quiet space. The sails on the felucca pulled against their ties, like horses against their reins, bucking in the waves.
The slow day had left me restless instead of calm, irritated with the young and the loud, dismayed at aging–at “progress”–in general. I sat with my journal contemplating my frustrations. I wanted to absorb the antiquity, life as its always been on the river, to slow it down to catch it, to feel it.
Bryan came to rescue me from my sad melancholy. My big sweet hero. He brought a bottle of water and a deck of cards for scoreless cribbage. We sat chatting and staring out at the water. A memory that will be time immortal.
Sleeping on the Nile
Cold night, hard pillows, the occasional splash of fish, buzzing bugs, a barking dog, voices on the bank, and finally snoring on the boat. I awoke in the pitch-black morning and sat looking at the stars and the moon.
Eventually, the smell of coffee, rallied me up and over to the service boat. Dawn was coming. I stood with my coffee and watched the sailors prepare the boats. We would leave the felucca this morning, and they’d return to Aswan.
Earth as Designed, or Progress?
There is an eternity to the Nile, the waters push onto the banks, nourishing the valley, and helping to produce food for millions. But now, the dam at Aswan and the Grand Ethiopian Renaissance Dam on the Blue Nile. What happens to this fertile valley when countries upstream build dams and fill reservoirs? What happens to the world when we progress to fighting for nourishing water, for more and more electricity, for flood control?
The Sun and Moon over Kom Ombo
Kom Ombo is about 35 miles “below Aswan” (North of). We’d sailed most of that distance, and now we drove to the Temple of Kom Ombo. It was still early morning–the light soft and warm, and the moon still shining down on us. Humming REM, “Egypt was troubled by the horrible asp…yeah yeah yeah yeah. Moses went walking with his staff of wood…yeah yeah yeah yeah…Andy did you hear about this one…If you believe, they put a man on the moon…” 🙂
Kom Ombo temple was built ~100-200 BC. It is a symmetrical double design to accommodate two gods and thought to be the first place efficiently designed for multiple gods. Worshippers chose which door to enter to convene with their god.
Duality…Sobek & Horus
The southeastern half of the temple was dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek, god of the Nile, fertility, and creator of the world. Sobek is represented as the aggressive crocodile, which once populated the banks of the Nile. He is also considered a protective and nurturing healer for Egypt–like the mummified crocodiles who have been found with baby crocodiles in their mouths and on their backs; crocodiles diligently care for their young often transporting offspring in this manner.
Meanwhile, the northwestern part of the temple was dedicated to the falcon-headed god, Horus the Elder, god of the sky and protector of the king. It is said that the sun is his right eye and the moon his left, and that they traverse the sky when he, as a falcon, flies. The moon is dimmer because his left eye was plucked out in a battle with Seth, god of chaos and the desert. Power-hungry humans tied their lineage to Horus, as explanation and justification for pharaonic power as a divine right. Horus has a dying-and-rising story too…but let’s not go there today.
These two, Sobek and Horus, represented duality…both universal and local stories, spiritual and material. Two priesthoods likely shared the space. Worshippers chose the door they entered based on their need at the time.
The Writing on the Wall
The hieroglyphics… you could spend days reading them all, like books written on a wall. Thousands of illustrations…whales, jackals, incense, medical tools, ankhs, flowers, women giving birth (!), a calendar. It is said that women came here for fertility and contraception, and for predicting the sex of their child. Urinate on barley & wheat…if the barley grows, it’s a boy. If the wheat, it’s a girl. One recipe noted the mix of sour milk or honey plus a mystery ingredient to prevent pregnancy.
Hijinks
Kings and Pharaohs also came to one of the two black stone altars to request help from the gods. In a hidden wall beside and below the altars, the priests could secretly listen to the king’s private request of his god. The priest then quietly entered the stone chamber hidden beside the altar–which served as an echo or amplification closet–and spoke as god to advise the king/pharaoh. In this way, priests ruled the kings. Once again, religion and politics traveled hand-in-hand. Nothing is really new, is it? Religion is too often political. Up is down.
Progress?
The temple has been shaken by earthquakes, its columns and stones salvaged by builders for other temples, and its artwork desecrated by Christians despising and fearing others’ gods. Today, its antiquity is protected. And today, little birds nest in the walls, in the deeply carved hieroglyphics or where chunks have fallen out. I love that.
After our walk through the temple, we lingered. Thank goodness. We sat and enjoyed this soft, slow morning. Music, tea, coffee, and shisha. And the happy little birds, birds singing and us smiling.
Thank you for reading
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Carol Fletcher is a traveling, dog-loving, tree-hugging, coffee-addicted, Nashville born-and-raised photographer living in Chicago. To see more photo essays and projects, please visit www.carolfletcher.com.
