December 4: Telluride, CO to Santa Fe, NM. Starting mileage: 39,891.

It was a cold day when we left Telluride. But still, no snow. Three snow machines were on full blast, blowing man-made snow on to the ski run right outside the Peaks when we left.  Goodbye Telluride. I hope to pass this way again. Today, we were driving to another favorite place, Santa Fe (I’ve done this drive before, going the other way).

The Drive

 

It’s about a six hour drive to Santa Fe from Telluride. There’s one road out of the canyon and then one south going around the San Juan Mountains. We saw a few deer grazing along the way, and signs that there were many more were nearby, actual signs said, “Begin Wildlife Fencing”, “End Wildlife Fencing”, and “End Wildlife Detection Zone.”

And then the land changes. The trees stay behind. The colors change back to red and pink exposed rock mountains, rust and sage high desert open landscapes. We drove by the mesas and rocks near Georgia O’Keefe’s Ghost Ranch and the town of Abiquiu, crossed the Rio Grande River, and drove into Santa Fe.

 

Santa Fe’s Inn of the Governors and Del Charro

We checked in to our colorful hotel room at the Inn of the Governors. In most hotel rooms, you’d have to look out the window to even have a chance of identifying what city you were in. But not here. The room was pure New Mexico. Decorated with colorful baskets, blankets, tiles, metal-worked mirrors, and stocked with soaps and shampoos scented with sage, lavender, lemon, and rosemary. We loved our gorgeous and cozy room, so centrally located.

 

We walked through the hotel courtyard during Tea and Sherry hour, sampling cookies, lemon tea, and the refreshing cucumber water. After a brief walk, we found a table in Del Charro, a favorite haunt for me in Santa Fe. The margaritas are generously served in martini shakers and the portions are hearty. And there’s a fireplace. Bonus, it was lit!

 

Santa Fe Days

There’s a distinct smell of Santa Fe…of juniper, piñon pine, sage, of desert air. In the early early mornings and twilights, I fill my lungs with the fresh air, trying to memorize and keep the scent of Santa Fe. I love it.

And at this time of year, add to that the smell of burning logs–maybe piñon pine, juniper, a little sage. Everywhere we went, little fires were lit in the kivas–corner fireplaces made of adobe and lifted a couple of feet off the ground. Mama and I gravitated towards these fireplaces like moths to their flames. At the hotel’s breakfast buffet, we practically sat in the fireplace–delighting in the blazing warmth while sipping coffee. Yum.

Later, we joined friends for lunch at La Choza, and gorged on Mexican entrees and the still-hot-from-the-kitchen sopapillas with honey.

 

Nearing the End of the Trip

We walked around the square, stopping in the Five and Dime and other shops around the plaza for postcards, and a few souvenirs–including our last pressed penny of the trip. The trip was winding down and we were getting sentimental about souvenirs. So, we bought a few little things for gifts and momentos.

Last, but not least, I made a pilgrimage to Keshi. This small little shop is the place to go for hand-carved Indian fetishes. The fetishes represent the spirits of animals and each animal possesses traits and abilities in its relationship with nature. Animals are honored by Native Americans for their different “medicines” and are believed to hold the power to protect the owner from various problems of mind or body. I have a small collection, each purchased because of the meaning it spoke to me at the time. Each brings back memories and seems to hold my sentiments and worries from that time for me. One always travels with me.

On this day, I bought two fetishes. Both were two bonded bears bound together. “Bear fetishes are used for healing, protection, strength, journeying, mothering, hunting and gathering. Bear’s hibernation reminds us of the value of going within”, according to Keshi. The first was a simple carving by Wilson Romero from the Cochiti Pueblo:  two bears of found stones, one black and one white. The second pair was a shiny white marble carving with the two bears tied together in opposing directions. One for her, one for me. Representing the paradox of mothers and daughters everywhere. Contradictory. Independent. And always bound together, no matter what.

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