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Road Trip: Yosemite National Park

Posted by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com
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November 19: San Francisco to Yosemite National Park. Starting mileage: 37,495.

Our drive east across California on a Sunday morning was quiet, sunny, and we were happy. The sun was in our eyes, and the road sparkled. We passed vast grassy flatlands, farms and fields, vineyards, almond trees planted in rows, and pastures where black cows reigned. Today, we’d see Yosemite, THE third National Park, and OUR third National Park.

Row of Almond trees farm in California
Almond tree farm in California.
The one brown cow. California.
The one brown cow. California.

 

Ode to Scenic Vistas and Viewing Points

One of our favorite things to do was stop to stretch our legs at scenic vistas and viewing points. Mama Lucy took the opportunity to walk her Fitbit, while I made photographs. Whether they’re called Observation Points, Scenic Turn-outs, Scenic Overlooks, Vista Points–all viewpoints have handsome views. But not all viewpoints are themselves scenic. Amidst the allure of the surrounding area, these viewing spaces are usually paved parking lots, sometimes populated by picnic tables, bathrooms, and overflowing trash cans. But, at this one, I noticed the lovely blonde hair-like grasses and admired the peaceful viewpoint as much as “the view”.

The Don Pedro Reservoir Lake near Chinese Camp, California.
The Don Pedro Reservoir Lake near Chinese Camp, California.
Parking lot for the vista at Don Pedro Reservoir Lake, near Chinese Camp, CA.
Extra views at the viewpoint parking lot for the vista at Don Pedro Reservoir Lake, near Chinese Camp, CA.

 

The Rim Wildfire Area

As we passed through Stanislaus National Forest and neared Yosemite National Park, we entered an area blackened by a forest fire. We stopped at another viewpoint, and stood staring at a barren valley full of leafless, toothpick trees. Above us, massive power lines hummed and crackled. A sign directed us to hear more about the Rim Fire.

The Rim Fire broke out in mid-August 2013, caused by a hunter’s illegal campfire. He stupidly lit a fire during a hot, dry, windy time when a fire ban was in place. The fire burned more than 90,000 acres in just a matter of days. Finally, nine weeks later, the fire was contained. But it was a full year before the smoldering fire was declared “out”. In the end, the Rim Fire destroyed more than 100 buildings. Fortunately, no humans died. I can only imagine how much more devastating this was for the wildlife–how many nests or dens destroyed? How many animal deaths? The hunter was charged with a felony, though the charges were later dropped because the only two witnesses against him died.

Rim Fire Audio Information point. Groveland, CA.
The Rim Fire began in August 2013, burning more than 90,000 acres around and in Yosemite National Park, California. It took more than two months to contain, and some areas smoldered for over a year.
Skeleton trees on hill burned trees stanislaus yosemite california fires
The Rim Fire was caused by an illegal hunter’s campfire in 2013. The fire destroyed more than 90,000 acres in Stanislaus National Forest and Yosemite National Park. California.
Dead trees in Stanislaus National Forest and Yosemite National Park. California.
Dead trees in Stanislaus National Forest and Yosemite National Park. California.
Burned tree skeletons in Stanislaus National Forest, California.
Skeletons of burned tree in Stanislaus National Forest, California. 

 

Yosemite!

Yosemite is the USA’s third National Park, established in 1890. Abraham Lincoln first protected the land in 1864 with the Yosemite Grant. But still development continued. Farm animals grazed in the valley. Hunters poached wildlife. More tourists came. More roads were built. Naturalist and conservationist John Muir argued for greater protection, and in 1890, the Yosemite Act passed. This act protected the trees in Sequoia National Park (the second park, beating Yosemite by about two weeks) and the natural formations and minerals in Yosemite.

Thankfully, passionate John Muir continued to argue for a greater idea to preserve and protect the great wild lands of America. One night in 1903, around a campfire in Yosemite with President Theodore Roosevelt, Muir made his point. The idea for the National Park Service was born. While the Park Service was not officially up and running until 1916, a 1906 Act formally gave Yosemite to the United States for protection. The National Park Service…America’s Best Idea. Thank you John Muir!

Entering Yosemite Half Dome in the distance. California's National Park.
Entering Yosemite, we could see Half Dome in the distance. California’s National Park.
Mama Lucy walking her Fitbit and looking at sequoias just outside Yosemite National Park. California.
Mama Lucy walking her Fitbit and looking at sequoias at another delightful viewpoint just outside Yosemite National Park. California.
Wawona Tunnel into Yosemite National Park. California.
Wawona Tunnel into Yosemite National Park. California.
Yosemite National Park. The 3rd oldest National Park, founded on October 1, 1890.
Yosemite National Park. The third oldest National Park, founded on October 1, 1890.

 

On the Valley Floor, Yosemite National Park

At last, we drove down to the Valley Floor and to the foot of El Capitan. There are no words to describe the scale beyond the fields of high grass, where the double-decker Yosemite waterfall fell from a massive granite mountain. Tiny people crossed the field in front of us.

Upper Yosemite Falls as seen from the Valley Floor. Yosemite National Park.
Upper Yosemite Falls as seen from the Valley Floor. Yosemite National Park.
El Capitan, a sheer granite mountain wall in Yosemite National Park.
El Capitan, a sheer granite mountain wall in Yosemite National Park.
Mama Lucy at the Chapel in Yosemite.
Mama Lucy at the Chapel in Yosemite. The Chapel was built in 1879 near the start of the Four Mile Trail. It was moved to this location in 1901.
Bridalveil Falls in Yosemite National Park. California.
Bridalveil Falls in Yosemite National Park. California.
On the Valley Floor. Yosemite, California.
On the Valley Floor. Yosemite, California.
Bridalveil Falls seen as we drive onto the Valley Floor. Yosemite National Park, CA.
Bridalveil Falls seen as we drive onto the Valley Floor. Yosemite National Park, CA.
Sign about Roosevelt and Muir at a campfire marking an important point for the preservation of Yosemite and all national forests and parks.
An important point for the preservation of Yosemite and all our national forests and parks. The National Park Service idea was born here, around a campfire.
Driving out of Yosemite after the sun left the Valley Floor.
Driving out of Yosemite after the sun left the Valley Floor.
A one-lane bridge in Yosemite. Part of a mountain road had collapsed in a rock fall. This bridge was one that redirected cars back over to the exiting side of the mountain road.
Later, we passed over a one-lane bridge in Yosemite. Part of a mountain road for exiting Yosemite collapsed in a rock fall. This bridge redirected cars back over to the exiting side of the mountain.

 

The sun leaves the valley

We left Yosemite’s Valley floor just after the sun did. Driving out of the canyon, we watched the sun ride up the granite cliffs. We’d make it to our hotel in Merced, California after dark. Happy and exhausted, we were delighted to learn that nearby Mountain Mike’s Pizza had a salad bar!

Finally, if you’re going on a road trip, please support your NATIONAL PARKS! The $80 spent on an annual pass was THE BEST $80 spent on our trip. We are lucky that such ardent and influential people moved on an idea to protect such magical and majestic places. Go! See the parks. Appreciate the last remaining wild spaces. And thank your lucky stars that someone had the foresight and passion to care and fight for nature.

Click the links to read more about our visits to Arches National Park and Redwood National and State Parks.

Some photos are available for sale on my Etsy site. THANK YOU!

Road Trip: San Francisco

Posted by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com
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November 17: Eureka to San Francisco. Starting mileage: 37,127.

From the quiet majesty of the redwoods, we were now on our way to the hubbub of busy San Francisco. It was once again, a beautiful day for a drive. Remembering our Road Trip Lesson #1–“the road is the trip too”–we took our time. We drove south down US-101, stopping at Redcrest’s tiny post office, Humboldt Redwoods State Park for a few walks along the Avenue of the Giants, and in Willets for a diner lunch at a place called Lumberjack’s. Besides abiding by Road Trip Lesson #6 to always opt to eat at a local diner, who could resist a place with an ax-carrying mannequin out front?

Sweet little bridge. Between Eureka and San Francisco, CA.
Sweet little bridge. Somewhere between Eureka and San Francisco, CA.
Tunnel to "ta-da"...San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge.
Tunnel to…”ta-da”…San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge!

 

Staying in San Francisco

We got our first glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge as we passed out of a tunnel, almost at golden hour. The sun’s setting light tinged everything with warmth and welcome. US-101 is the road that goes over the Golden Gate Bridge, and after that and a dramatic left turn through the Presidio, we arrived at our centrally-located hotel, right there on the old highway. So many fantastic old hotel signs, remnants of another era.

In the big cities, I’d looked for hotels where we could park the car, and take public transportation and/or walk. This one was perfectly located, and though not the poshest hotel, it was clean and cozy. And from the balcony, we could see the Golden Gate Bridge…just to the right of a massive billboard touting the coming-soon Apple iPhone X.

November 18:  Lombard Street

Lucky us! Our hotel was on US-101, which also turns out to be Lombard Street. After a few blocks walk–or should I say, CLIMB up Lombard–we arrived at the top of the hill. One side is pin-straight, all the way back past the old highway’s hotels. On the other side, Lombard Street becomes the crookedest street in America.

The story goes that this block, with its 27% grade, was just too steep for cars. As a result, property values were lower for residents. Eventually, someone thought of terracing and in 1922, Lombard Street got its curved switchbacks. Originally a two-way street, it became one way, down hill, in 1939. Over the years, hydrangeas were planted to ease erosion. Sometime during the late 1950s-early 1960s, a photograph of a blooming, colorful Lombard Street became popular and was printed on a postcard. Today, it is estimated that more than 300 cars per hour make their way down the narrow turns, and gobs of tourists hoof it down the block’s 250 steps. No wonder the houses have so many gates, ivy, and hedges! As we took our time walking down, we tried not to gawk into resident’s “front yards”, but we did admire their gardening, and their parking skills.

Walking down Lombard Street, San Francisco, CA.
Follow the red-brick road. Walking down the curviest street…Lombard Street…in San Francisco, CA. Read more about this street and see old photos of its construction.
Gates and hedges along Lombard Street, San Francisco, CA.
Gates and hedges along Lombard Street, San Francisco, CA.
Peek-a-boo window near Lombard Street in hilly San Francisco.
Peek-a-boo window near Lombard Street in hilly San Francisco.
The San Francisco version of kudzu...ivy blankets on a hilly garage. Near Lombard Street.
The San Francisco version of kudzu? Ivy blankets a hilly garage near Lombard Street.
Mama Lucy sits for a rest on the way up the hill to see Lombard Street's crooked other side. San Francisco.
Mama Lucy sits for a rest on the way up the hill to see Lombard Street’s crooked other side. San Francisco.

 

Cable Cars!

Next, we headed for the cable cars. We’d heard the clanging bells and had waved back at the people hanging off the sides, waving and laughing. Our destination was the Powell-Hyde Cable Car turnaround spot in Ghirardelli Square. From there, we’d go to the Powell St. Station at Market Street.

It is said that the San Francisco cable car system came from Andrew Smith Hallidie, who witnessed a horrible accident in 1869. A horse-drawn carriage slipped on the steep-graded, wet, cobblestone street and slid backwards. The heavy vehicle dragged five horses down the hill to their deaths. Hallidie was inspired to do something about it–using wire rope to design a method to pull these cable cars. They were tested and rolled out in 1873.

We were the first riders on the next Powell-Hyde cable car. At this early hour, it wasn’t yet crowded. We marveled at the hills, the clanging of the bell as we passed through intersections, and the pushing/pulling of the conductor’s controls. It was too quick a ride and we were soon at Market Street.

Us on the Cable Car. San Francisco.
Us on the Cable Car. San Francisco.

 

Cable Car, Streetcar, Trolley, or Muni?

Now, who knows the difference between all the trolley cars, cable cars, streetcars, light rail, and subway cars? I find it ridiculously confusing…which made it tricky to figure out how to get the MUNI to go out to see friends and meet their dogs. We got a lot of coaching from friends over text and phone calls, and from some kind strangers in the MUNI station and on the bus…or trolley…or in Chicagoan, “the el”…maybe?

Here’s what I learned:

  • Cable cars run on steel rails with a slot between the tracks where an underground cable runs at a continuous nine miles per hour. To move forward, the conductor operates what are essentially pliers to grip, or let go of, the moving cable.
  • Streetcars also run on steel rails, but with no slot between the tracks, and no underground cable. The streetcars have onboard electric motors and require a trolley pole to draw power from an overhead wire. They are sometimes called trolley cars.
  • Some trolleys have rubber tires and no steel rails, but they are electric and draw power from overhead wires. These are called trolley coaches or trolley buses.
  • There’s also the Muni Metro Light rail. To this Chicagoan, this resembles a short subway train, but on the ground and attached to overhead wires.
  • And finally, there’s BART–Bay Area Rapid Transit–which is a traditional elevated and subway rail system all over the Bay area.

Confusing, no?

San Francisco's Muni lines.
San Francisco’s Muni lines.

 

Quick visits with good friends

In any case, we found our way out to my friends’ house. It was a nice ride out, through a Saturday afternoon in typical San Francisco neighborhoods. Road Trip Lesson #4 is to seize the moments, so we crammed in this super quick visit. We had a rambunctious welcome from two wiggle-butt mutts and big hugs from good friends. After a short visit, with some much-needed puppy playtime, and a sandwich lunch, we had to be on our way. We got a ride back into town past the Painted Ladies, said our goodbyes, and got in line for another cable car ride back to our neighborhood to meet another friend. Life is short! Make it work!

A row of Victorian Houses, The Painted Ladies. San Francisco.
“Postcard Row”: The Painted Ladies, Victorian Houses at Alamo Square park. The houses were built between 1892 and 1896. San Francisco.

 

Another cable car ride, another friend, and another diner

The cable cars were much busier now. Our wait was about an hour. Finally, we boarded–Mama Lucy sitting, and me hanging off the side. What a ride! We stopped in the middle of an intersection for a shift change and traded one loquacious conductor for another. We were told to watch our heels so they didn’t drag on street pylons, and tuck in our butts in traffic. !!! Up and over, up and over. Hills came and went. The bells clanged. People chased the cable car wanting to board and the conductor roared “Next Car!” like a lion song. We were giddy by the time we got back to Ghirardelli Square.

Ghiradrdelli sign at Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco.
Ghirardelli Square in the Fisherman’s Wharf area, San Francisco.

 

Here, we’d meet another friend for a bit of site-seeing in her car, and later a diner dinner at Mel’s. Genuine chocolate malts and dancing in the booth to YMCA by the Village People at Mel’s, followed by a glass of wine later near the Wharf wrapped up our time in San Francisco. Such great friends, and such a beautiful place to live.

November 19: San Francisco to Yosemite. Starting mileage: 37,495.

We woke the car up early, loading her up to get out of town before San Francisco got busy. According to Road Trip Lesson #5, we asked Siri for help getting out of the city and she directed us calmly across town and out over the Bay Bridge.

Thanks for a great visit San Francisco! Hope to see y’all again soon!

The Bay Bridge. Lower level going East.
The Bay Bridge. Lower level going East. During the 1989 earthquake, a bit of the upper section collapsed onto this bottom section. It was repaired. In the 1990s, the decision was made to replace the Eastern span of the bridge. A completely new bridge was constructed beside the old one. The new one opened in 2013, and the old one was carefully taken down in 2016-17. San Francisco.

 

Select photos are available on Etsy.

Road Trip: The Redwoods

Posted by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com
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November 15:  Portland to the California Redwoods. Starting mileage:  36,776.

We left Portland in a heavy rain. Today, we were headed for the coastal redwood trees in California. I couldn’t wait to see those giant, ancient beings–straight and tall–lining our road.

As we drove along, we saw fields of crops–labeled for city people like us. We called out the names on the signs and admired the plants as we passed:  broccoli, hazelnuts, clover, forage, fescue, rye grass, and winter wheat.

Welcome to California

After a little while, we came upon a “Welcome to California” sign, followed by an Agricultural Inspection Point with a sign reading “All vehicles must stop”. We pulled over, and were quickly waved through by the ranger, “Have a good afternoon ladies!”  Soon, there was a tunnel, and not long after, the first redwood. Unmistakable…the presence of those surely sentient trees, waiting along the road, welcoming or watching. We were in the Redwood National and State Parks.

fog tree tops redwood trees national park california
Just a photo from behind the steering wheel as we drove into the first in the string of Redwood National and State Parks. My skin tingles every time I get a first glimpse of the Redwoods. There is no comparison! I was excited for Mama Lucy to see them. Redwood National Park.

 

November 16:  Crescent City to Eureka, California. Starting mileage:  37,113

The next morning, we started out early. We’d drive slowly south, weaving around and through the various parks that make up the Redwood National and State Parks system. What a moody day as we drove into a deep fog cloud, then a misting rain, and a hard rain–driving among the giants.

About to enter the fog cloud, California.
About to enter the fog cloud, California.
Seeing the redwoods in the rain and fog...it's like driving into an ancient fairy tale.
Seeing the redwoods in the rain and fog…it’s like driving into an ancient fairy tale.
Fog in the Redwood trees. Jedediah Smith Redwoods National Park, California.
Fog in the Redwoods. Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, California.
Mama Lucy dwarfed by a Redwood tree Rain in Forest. Redwood National Park, California.
Mama Lucy dwarfed in the Redwood Forest. Redwood National Park, California.

 

About the Redwood Tree

Coastal Redwoods are some of the oldest living things on earth, 1,200–1,800 years or more, with one estimated to be 2,200 years old. They are tall–the tallest living things on earth at 375+ feet. Coast redwoods can reproduce from tiny seed cones or by sprouting from a root crown, stump, or even fallen redwoods.  Despite their great height, the roots only extend down six to twelve feet. But the roots can extend up to 100 feet from the tree’s base, intertwining with the roots of others, all holding on to each other, which greatly increases their stability. These groves are like families, and for this reason, redwoods are often in a line or fairy-ring circle.

A fallen giant redwood spouts ferns, moss, and other trees. Redwood National Park.
A fallen giant redwood spouts ferns, moss, and other trees. Redwood National Park.
Redwood trees often sprout from fallen trees. Redwood National Park.
Fallen redwoods often sprout other trees. Redwood National Park.

 

Sequoia sempervirens (redwoods) are only found on the Pacific coast, from southern Oregon through central California. They can not live more than 50 miles inland because they need the fog and precipitation from the incoming moisture off the ocean. The tallest and oldest trees are found in deep valleys and gullies, where rainfall is high, year-round streams flow, and fog is regular. The redwoods drink fog:  ~40% of their water intake is condensed fog.

Walking in the rain in the Redwoods National Park.
Walking in the rain in the Redwood National Park. Fog and rain suit these forests.
Moss grows on a Redwood. Coastal Redwoods in Northern California.
Moss grows on a Redwood. Coastal Redwoods in Northern California.
Mama Lucy walking through the redwood forest.
Mama Lucy walking through the redwood forest.
Mama Lucy in the redwood forest.
Mama Lucy in the redwood forest.

 

John Steinbeck’s Redwood Encounter in Travels with Charley

“The redwoods, once seen, leave a mark or create a vision that stays with you always. No one has ever successfully painted or photographed a redwood tree. The feeling they produce is not transferable. From them comes silence and awe. It’s not only their unbelievable stature, nor the color which seems to shift and vary under your eyes, no, they are not like any trees we know, they are ambassadors from another time.

They carry their own light and shade. The vainest, most slap-happy and irreverent of men, in the presence of redwoods, goes under a spell of wonder and respect…. One feels the need to bow to unquestioned sovereigns. There’s a cathedral hush here. Perhaps the thick soft bark absorbs sound and creates a silence. The trees rise straight up to zenith; there is no horizon…. The green fernlike foliage so far up strains the sunlight to a green gold and distributes it in shafts or rather in stripes of light and shade. To me, there’s a remote and cloistered feeling here. One holds back speech for fear of disturbing something–what?

And only these few are left—a stunning memory of what the world was like once long ago. Can it be that we do not love to be reminded that we are very young and callow in a world that was old when we came into it?

― John Steinbeck, Travels with Charley: In Search of America, 1962

 

A few photos to try and show the magic:

Redwoods drink condensed fog.
Redwoods drink condensed fog.
Such a magical place of fog, rain, and these kind, sentient giants. Redwoods National Forest.
Such a magical place of fog, rain, and these kind, sentient giants. Redwood National Forest.
At the foot of a redwood.
The soft, cushy forest floor at the foot of a redwood.

Their one-foot thick, soft fibrous bark makes them extremely fire-resistant. They are also extremely resistant to insects and rot. Indeed, it is said that their number one enemy is humankind. Redwoods are listed as endangered because of declining populations due to urban development and logging. Since logging began in the 1850s, 95 percent of old-growth coast redwoods have been cut down (source:  Sempervirens Fund). Today, the four parks in the Redwood National and State Parks system, together, protect only 45% of all remaining redwood old-growth forests, totaling about 39,000 acres. Redwoods are listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List because of decreasing populations.

Lumber facility along the coast near the Redwoods National Park.
Lumber facility along the coast near the Redwood National Park. Redwoods are endangered because of urban development and logging. 
Elk warning.
Wild Elk warning. Animals thrive in the redwood forests.

 

Reverence

I am not religious. But I do believe in something greater, a spirit bigger than our individual selves. These trees embody that. The stillness, the rain, the very presence of the trees, inspire an awe and reverence that I cannot articulate. We are here now, among these divine spirits. How patient they are with the often greedy, cruel humans who are just a moment in their long lives.

I’m drawn to them, and could happily lose myself walking among their trunks in the fog and rain. We walked in silence around them, on a path through a quiet forest with only the sound of dripping rain. I held one of their tiny seed cones, less than one-inch long. And they held me in their midst, among their groves. I took some silence, some calm, some hope with me that day.

Thank you sweet redwoods.

See my Etsy site for a print of The Avenue of the Giants, Redwood National and State Parks.