Jaipur

The Pink City of Jaipur

Posted by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com
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The Pink City of Jaipur

On our second day in Jaipur, Bryan woke up early suffering from stomach problems…Delhi Belly! By dawn, he had decided to stay in the room for the day, close to the bathroom. After stocking him up with bottled water, I joined the group for breakfast and a day of touring the Pink City.

To begin, Khush explained that the Pink City was originally yellow. It was painted terra-cotta pink for Prince Albert’s visit in 1876. This “Jaipur Pink” represents welcoming and hospitality, and to this day, is mandated for all buildings in the old city.

Palace of Winds

First, we stopped at the red and pink sandstone Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of Winds. Built in 1799, there are 953 windows with ornate latticework designed to allow palace ladies to watch the street happenings below without being seen. The architectural honeycombs and turrets also allow breezes to pass through, a bonus for the royal ladies during Jaipur’s hot summers.

The Pink City's Hawa Mahal - Palace of Winds - Jaipur, India
953 windows were designed to allow the ladies of the royal court to watch the streets below, unobserved behind the delicate latticework at Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal – Palace of Winds
Screened-in porch, one room deep, hawa mahal, palace of winds, jaipur india
In Jaipur, India at Hawa Mahal – Palace of Winds: The facade seen from the street is essentially an enormous screened porch, one room deep in most places.

 

Jantar Mantar

Next, we visited the astronomical observatory: Jantar Mantar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Completed in 1734, this monument is a collection of large astronomical structures. The instruments allow the observation of astronomical positions with the naked eye–measuring time, predicting eclipses, and tracking locations of stars.

Before going in, we met our host, who explained the importance of star study in Indian culture. Next, he went around our circle asking for each of our birth dates and times. With this information, he told each of us a little truth about ourselves. For me: “You rise early, over-think…too much decision? Staying in place is difficult? Yes.” Pause. “But you smile.”

Even on this partly cloudy day, we saw the shadow fall across the world’s largest sundial, the Samrat Yantra—accurately giving the time and date. We watched time pass, as the shadow crept across the stone like an ancient second hand.

Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India, The Giant Sundial, Samrat Yantra
The Giant Sundial, Samrat Yantra, tells the time to a two-second accuracy. It stands almost 90 feet tall and its shadow moves about a hand’s width every minute. Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Waiting for the sun. Our Astronomy guide at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Waiting for the sun: some of the G Adventures group and our guide at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Telling us about ourselves. Our Astronomy guide reads Marian's palm at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Our guide reads Marion’s palm while we wait for the sun.
Sun and shadow tell the time at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Sun and shadow tell the time at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
The back side of one of the Zodiac instruments. Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
There are 12 of these smaller structures, one for each sign of the zodiac, Jantar Mantar.
Our guide explains the Jai Prakash, at Jantar Mantar in Jaipur India
Our guide explains the Jai Prakash. A metal plate is suspended over the center of each of the two bowl-shaped hemispherical dials. The plates cast shadows on the marked interior of the bowls, Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Detail of the Jai Prakash, at Jantar Mantar in Jaipur India.
Detail of the Jai Prakash, at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India:  Steps lead into the bowls and engraved markings coordinate and describe the position of celestial objects.

 

Arrival at Amber Fort and Palace

After another short ride, we got out of the bus and divided up into jeeps. We were at the Amber Fort and Palace, and we were on our way up to the Lion Gate. It would have been pleasant to walk up, though the incline was steep and the narrow winding streets were filled with traffic. Our jeep caravan stopped in the narrow lane in traffic for about 20 minutes, and kids came out to show us their sparkling, colorful purses and pens for sale.

As we came up to the top, goats were stationed on the rock foundations. Elephants with elaborate face-painting and large platform saddles sadly carried lazy tourists up the hill and into a different gate. There was a wide view of India’s countryside. We walked around the grounds, exploring the alcoves of columns and enjoying the hilltop breezes passing through them.

Amer Amber Fort and Palace and Maota Lake, Jaipur India.
Amber Fort and Palace and Maota Lake, Jaipur India.
Unethical Elephant ride to/from the Amber Fort.
Hey Man, enjoying your ride and phone call? Please DON’T take an elephant ride to/from the Amber Fort. Use a jeep instead, or better yet…WALK!
Inside the Amber Fort, Jaipur India.
Inside the Amber Fort, Jaipur India.
Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Ganesh Gate at Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Workers and Tourists in in Sheesh Mahal, a pavilion at Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Workers and tourists in Sheesh Mahal, a pavilion at Amber Palace, Jaipur India.

 

Into the Rich World of Amber Palace

Moving as a group, we topped the crowded stairs to the shining Ganesh Gate and entered a cool interior. I looked up to see a glowing ceiling medallion. One of the guides explained the design was created from paints made by crushing jewels and stones:  the blues are from lapis lazuli, the golds from sulphur and citrine, the greens from malachite, and the oranges from hematite.

We walked around a large, geometric garden. Lush and tidy, and tinkling with fountains, this garden separated the Hall of Pleasure from the Mirror Palace. Built in the 1500s, the Sukh Mahal (Hall of Pleasure) is where the family stayed in hot, humid monsoon season. Water flows through piping and channels to cool the courtyard, and to entertain the harem with the music of the water and the clinking bottles of wine cooling in the streams. Across the garden is the Mirror Palace, used in winter months, when the thousands of little mirrors look like “glittering jewels in candlelight”.

Ceiling medallion in Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Inside Ganesh Gate, this ceiling design was of paints made by crushing jewels and stones—blues of lapis lazuli, golds of sulphur and citrine, greens from malachite, and oranges from hematite.
Sukh Mahal Hall of Pleasure ceiling amber palace jaipur india
The ceiling in the Hall of Pleasure. Sukh Mahal, Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Looking over at Hall of Mirrors from the Hall of Pleasure. Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Looking over at the Hall of Mirrors from the Hall of Pleasure. Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Sheesh Mahal, Mirror Palace. The mosaics and mirrors, Jaipur India,
Inside Sheesh Mahal, Mirror Palace: The mosaics and mirrors have colored foil and glass, and are painted to glitter under candlelight.

 

A Procession for Wishes Granted

Pots of coconuts and flowers, a procession near Jaipur India.
Pots of coconuts and flowers, a procession near Jaipur India.

On the way home, we came upon a loud, happy, colorful procession. Khush explained that these processions were to say thanks for favors given, wishes granted, or prayers answered. First, a truck leads, with speakers blasting music. Then, men and boys follow the truck, dancing and inviting strangers into the procession. Last, a crowd of ladies follows, wearing colorful saris and carrying pots filled with coconuts and flowers. Someone asked if we could stop. Naturally, Khush said yes, and “you will be welcome to join them”. As he said, this crowd greeted us with smiles and absorbed us into their happy midst.

At the head of the procession is a truck blaring happy music, Outside Jaipur, India.
At the head of the procession is a truck blaring happy music and boys dancing. Outside Jaipur, India.
Joining the procession in Jaipur, India.
Joining the procession in Jaipur, India.
Lovely saris, in the back of the procession. Near Jaipur, India.
Lovely saris, in the back of the procession. Near Jaipur, India.
Saying goodbye after we extracted ourselves from the procession. Near Jaipur India.
Afterwards, saying goodbye once we extracted ourselves from the procession. Near Jaipur India.

 

The Water Palace

Next, we stopped at the Water Palace (Jal Mahal) which appears to float like magic on Man Sagar Lake. Built in the 1750s, an astonishing four stories of the palace sit below the water. What magical protection it must have–sitting on the water and not drowning in the lake.

It was here at this stop I met a legless man selling small cast-iron, hand-painted oxen, elephants, and bowls–maybe the India version of the American Indian fetishes I cherish. I leaned over his spread of items, carefully chose one, and he scooted around on his hands to collect my dollar. I picked a small strong white buffalo, painted with a red blanket and face decorations. What strength and fortitude it took for this man to be here, to smile.

Water Palace (Jal Mahal) floats on Man Sagar Lake.
The Water Palace (Jal Mahal) floats on Man Sagar Lake

Magic and Protection, Strength and Fortitude

Many times, Khush would bring a few items from street vendors onto the bus as we loaded up to leave a place saying, “Would anyone love to have X for only 50 rupees?” It was a respectful way to support the locals and to give us an opportunity to buy souvenirs. At these times, the vendors stood in a crowd at the door smiling in.

On this day, Khush brought in Raheem—a boy magician. The boy with the beautiful eyes rode with us for several miles, doing shell game tricks on the floor of the bus with three metal pots, a fruit pit, and a clanging metal wand. He spoke a magic spell to pull a coin from Carina’s nose and then one from my knee. When asked, Raheem said he was 6 years old. But, Khush smiled at the boy– doing the Indian bobble-head–while saying “No…he is maybe 8 or 9”. Afterwards, we paid Raheem for his magic show, and the driver let him off the bus a few miles down the road.

Raheem—a boy magician who joined our bus ride for a few miles. Jaipur India.
Raheem, a boy magician, joined our bus ride for a few miles in Jaipur, India.
Chilis & Lemons on a car bumper for protection. Jaipur India.
Similar to an evil eye, many cars have 7 chilis and a lemon strung and hung on their bumpers for protection. Jaipur India.

 

Thank you for reading

Select photos are available on Etsy.

Also, if you’ve been to India, please leave a comment about your favorite memories and places! I’m dying to go back and would love recommendations.

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All the Colors of India – Jaipur

Posted by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com
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All the Colors of India

We were on our way to Jaipur, in Rajasthan India. Our drive from Delhi to Jaipur, known as the Pink City, was a full-on introduction to all the colors of India.

From our big purple G Adventures bus, we watched all the colors of India pass by–how different and boisterous and surprising! Every one of us, glued to a window–absorbing the sights, exclaiming about this or that, and throwing question after question to our leader, Khush. We saw marigolds and perfume bottles sitting on truck and car dashboards, women carrying masses of sticks and wrapped bundles of mustard grass and wheat on their heads, men piled high on truck cargo checking their cell phones and waving back at us, oxen being herded at a rest stop, semi trucks decorated with brightly-colored tassels and “Blow Horn” and “Use Dipper” painted on the back, loud happy music in processions of ladies in red, orange, and yellow saris, indifferent camels, nosy goats, herds of sheep, gangs of monkeys, the Jaipur “bye pass”, and so much more.

Doctor's Chamber at the crossroad. Jaipur, India.
Doctor’s Chamber at the crossroad. Jaipur, India.
Dog on a park bench, Jaipur, India.
Dog on a park bench, Jaipur, India.

 

The Bissau Palace Hotel

A few hours later, the bus pulled into a quiet drive and an opulent courtyard. We were checking into the extraordinary Bissau Palace. This beautiful place was built in the 19th century, as the palace for nobleman Raghubir Singhji. The hotel is located just outside the walls of the old pink city of Jaipur. Thirty-six rooms encircle an entrance garden. The courtyard lobby is open to the weather, with seating in nooks and crannies under eaves. Perfect spots for taking tea or coffee and contemplating life. The hotel had a central area with a bar, and a cozy dining room. Old photographs and maps decorated the inner-lobby, accented by the soft glow of a crystal chandelier and lamplight. A library of leather-bound books and velvet-covered chairs and sofas offered a quiet haven to read, and to step back in time.

Panorama of the lobby of Bissau Palace. The Pink City of Jaipur.
Panorama of the lobby of Bissau Palace. The Pink City of Jaipur.
An old photo of the Raj in the Bissau Palace Hotel, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.
An old photo of the Raj in the Bissau Palace Hotel, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.
The crystal chandelier at the Bissau Palace Hotel
The crystal chandelier at the Bissau Palace Hotel

 

Room #18

Our room was old, musty, elaborately decorated, and behind dungeon doors. Bryan wrestled with the substantial padlock and the bolt, and finally the several-inches-thick dark wood doors creaked open into a room that was flamboyant, embellished, and gilted in gold wallpaper, hand-painted murals, ancient textiles, old photos, and stained glass. After another struggle with the doors–they had to be fitted together just so in order to close properly–we bolted ourselves in with heavy ornate levers, and got situated.

Room #18 at Hotel Bissau Palace. Ornate wallpaper, murals, old photographs and antique textiles. Jaipur India.
Room #18 at Hotel Bissau Palace. Ornate wallpaper, murals, old photographs and antique textiles. Jaipur India.
Room #18 at Hotel Bissau Palace, looking at the door and stained glass windows. Jaipur India.
Room #18 at Hotel Bissau Palace, looking at the door and stained glass windows. Jaipur India.
The door of room #18 at Hotel Bissau Palace. Jaipur. Ornate wallpaper, murals, old photographs. Jaipur India.
The door of room #18 at Hotel Bissau Palace. Jaipur. Ornate wallpaper, murals, old photographs. Jaipur India.
The door to Room #18 at the Bissau Palace Hotel.
The door to Room #18 at the Bissau Palace Hotel.

 

The Old Market of Jaipur

We went for a walk in the busy market area in the early evening until sunset. The contradiction with the world beyond these hotel grounds was clear. The streets were teeming with people and motor vehicles, smog, and haze. Monkeys ran through the branches of trees that bloomed plastic-bag flowers. Dogs nested in trash heaps.

Dogs nesting in the trash, just outside the gates of Bissau Palace Hotel, Jaipur India.
Dogs nesting in the trash, just outside the gates of Bissau Palace Hotel, Jaipur India.
Mama monkey chasing her baby. Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.
Mama monkey chasing her baby. Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.

 

This was pure senses overload—-a deluge of smells, an abundance of colors, an immersion among so many people, my eyes struggling to see it all at once, my brain grasping to remember each image. No words can describe the assault, the filling up, the discovery, the shock and awe of India at your elbow.

A goat, a man, and hundreds of caged chickens. Jaipur, India.
A goat, a man, and hundreds of caged chickens. Jaipur, India.
Buying a tray of grains to feed the birds and our souls, a common practice near religious places to bring good karma. Old Jaipur, India.
Buying a tray of grains to feed the birds and our souls, a common practice near religious places to bring good karma. Old Jaipur, India.
Holy cow in the streets of Jaipur, India.
A child grabs an ear of a holy cow in the streets of Jaipur, India.
Selling all the colors for Holi. Jaipur, India.
Selling all the colors for Holi. Jaipur, India.
Grains and vegetables in the old market bazaar, Pink City of Jaipur, India.
Grains and vegetables in the old market bazaar, Pink City of Jaipur, India.
Fruit lady and shadows. Jaipur Bazaar, India.
Fruit lady and shadows. Jaipur Bazaar, India.
If I could photograph smells, you'd be sneezing right now. Peppers. Jaipur, India.
If I could photograph smells, you’d be sneezing right now. Peppers. Jaipur, India.
A girl stares in the market. Jaipur, India.
A girl stares in the market. Jaipur, India.
Tumeric in Jaipur, India.
All the colors of yellow: tumeric grinding in Jaipur, India.

 

Chai, Samosas, and Death in Jaipur

We saw kohl-eyed kids–the eyeliner is to ward off evil or sickness. We passed sari shops with fabrics in all the colors and every pattern under the sun. Two women sold dung cakes, dried and ready to be used as fuel. Men stood at each tiny shop stall—-each with a specialty–each hawking their wares. We sat for a spell at a chai shop, waiting for its careful preparation while trying to absorb all that went on around us. I looked at our group, every face slackened, all eyes widened, mesmerized. THIS was the magic of travel, found in a moment.

Pink cups in the Pink City. Chai time. In the old market bazaar, Jaipur India.
Pink cups in the Pink City. Chai time. In the old market bazaar, Jaipur India.

 

We passed a street stall selling funeral cots. Hand-held wooden cots the size of a six-foot ladder with shimmering golden cloth hammocks for the bodies to rest. Earlier, we had moved to the side of the street to allow a funeral to pass-—the body wrapped in white muslin and held high on a cot like this. Only men were in the procession. We took no photographs out of respect for the family and the dead person on his/her way to the funeral pyre.

Later, Khush bought us hot samosas from a street vendor. Bryan took a bite and coughed on the intense spice. I gave my intact samosa to the oldest looking of the elderly women sitting on the street curb begging. She took it with both hands and a nod, then gave me a beaming, toothless smile.

Street food in the market bazaar of the old city of Jaipur, India.
Street food in the market bazaar of the old city of Jaipur, India.

 

Navigating the streets of Jaipur

On the bus, Khush had given us some advice to cross the street in India: “Look left. Look right. Then run for your life.” He wasn’t kidding. At nightfall, we visited a temple and went to a rooftop to look down on a roundabout. With all the honking cars and trucks, shouting rickshaws, weaving motorcycles and bicycles, dodging pedestrians and animals, it appeared to be a moving tangle of madness.

A few minutes later, we joined that madness. Our destination was a garage that had been turned into a dining hall under the stars famous for its tikka. We crossed the street holding hands, and got two-by-two into bicycle rickshaws. Our small loquacious driver randomly screamed out “ooh-la-la” as he peddled and prattled. I counted this as the first of many times we cheated death in India.

Looking down on the night traffic at the roundabout in Jaipur. India.
Looking down on the night traffic at the roundabout in Jaipur. India.
From a bicycle rickshaw in Jaipur. A child sleeps on a motorcycle.
Riding on a bicycle rickshaw in Jaipur’s crazy traffic.

 

Mornings at the Hotel

We woke early and made our way over to the dining room behind the courtyard. The buffet breakfast served hard boiled eggs, potato cakes, a curry rice mix, jams and breads, and some mysterious fried…meats, vegetables? There were so many things to see in that dining room. I was usually the first one there, and the only one for a while. I wrote in my journal while sipping my way through an entire pot of the very best coffee on our trip. Sublime.

Elephant curtain rod in the Bissau Palace Hotel. Jaipur, Rajasthan India.
Elephant curtain rod in the Bissau Palace Hotel. Jaipur, Rajasthan India.
The best coffee on our trip...at the Bissau Palace Hotel, Jaipur. India.
The best coffee on our trip…at the Bissau Palace Hotel, Jaipur. India.
A puppet and the maker, in the courtyard of Bissau Palace Hotel. Jaipur, India.
A puppet and the maker, in the courtyard of Bissau Palace Hotel. This puppet came how with us for my Aunt Aline. Jaipur, India.
A sweet black street dog in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.
A sweet black street dog in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.

 

More to come from Jaipur

There is so much to say about India. All the colors. The smells. The vastly different culture. Please stay tuned for more from Jaipur, the Pink City of Rajasthan India and more from India!

Peeling Coca-Cola wall and fence. Jaipur, India.
Peeling Coca-Cola wall and fence. Jaipur, India.
A motorized rickshaw in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.
A motorized rickshaw in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India.

In the meantime, you can read more about our arrival into India, or our visits to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, and/or New Zealand’s Franz Josef Glacier.

Select photos are available on Etsy.

Finally, if you’ve been to India, please leave a comment about your favorite moments! If you liked this post, please…

THANK YOU!