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The Pink City of Jaipur

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The Pink City of Jaipur

On our second day in Jaipur, Bryan woke up early suffering from stomach problems…Delhi Belly! By dawn, he had decided to stay in the room for the day, close to the bathroom. After stocking him up with bottled water, I joined the group for breakfast and a day of touring the Pink City.

To begin, Khush explained that the Pink City was originally yellow. It was painted terra-cotta pink for Prince Albert’s visit in 1876. This “Jaipur Pink” represents welcoming and hospitality, and to this day, is mandated for all buildings in the old city.

Palace of Winds

First, we stopped at the red and pink sandstone Hawa Mahal, or the Palace of Winds. Built in 1799, there are 953 windows with ornate latticework designed to allow palace ladies to watch the street happenings below without being seen. The architectural honeycombs and turrets also allow breezes to pass through, a bonus for the royal ladies during Jaipur’s hot summers.

The Pink City's Hawa Mahal - Palace of Winds - Jaipur, India
953 windows were designed to allow the ladies of the royal court to watch the streets below, unobserved behind the delicate latticework at Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal – Palace of Winds
Screened-in porch, one room deep, hawa mahal, palace of winds, jaipur india
In Jaipur, India at Hawa Mahal – Palace of Winds: The facade seen from the street is essentially an enormous screened porch, one room deep in most places.

 

Jantar Mantar

Next, we visited the astronomical observatory: Jantar Mantar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Completed in 1734, this monument is a collection of large astronomical structures. The instruments allow the observation of astronomical positions with the naked eye–measuring time, predicting eclipses, and tracking locations of stars.

Before going in, we met our host, who explained the importance of star study in Indian culture. Next, he went around our circle asking for each of our birth dates and times. With this information, he told each of us a little truth about ourselves. For me: “You rise early, over-think…too much decision? Staying in place is difficult? Yes.” Pause. “But you smile.”

Even on this partly cloudy day, we saw the shadow fall across the world’s largest sundial, the Samrat Yantra—accurately giving the time and date. We watched time pass, as the shadow crept across the stone like an ancient second hand.

Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India, The Giant Sundial, Samrat Yantra
The Giant Sundial, Samrat Yantra, tells the time to a two-second accuracy. It stands almost 90 feet tall and its shadow moves about a hand’s width every minute. Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Waiting for the sun. Our Astronomy guide at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Waiting for the sun: some of the G Adventures group and our guide at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Telling us about ourselves. Our Astronomy guide reads Marian's palm at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Our guide reads Marion’s palm while we wait for the sun.
Sun and shadow tell the time at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Sun and shadow tell the time at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
The back side of one of the Zodiac instruments. Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
There are 12 of these smaller structures, one for each sign of the zodiac, Jantar Mantar.
Our guide explains the Jai Prakash, at Jantar Mantar in Jaipur India
Our guide explains the Jai Prakash. A metal plate is suspended over the center of each of the two bowl-shaped hemispherical dials. The plates cast shadows on the marked interior of the bowls, Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India.
Detail of the Jai Prakash, at Jantar Mantar in Jaipur India.
Detail of the Jai Prakash, at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur India:  Steps lead into the bowls and engraved markings coordinate and describe the position of celestial objects.

 

Arrival at Amber Fort and Palace

After another short ride, we got out of the bus and divided up into jeeps. We were at the Amber Fort and Palace, and we were on our way up to the Lion Gate. It would have been pleasant to walk up, though the incline was steep and the narrow winding streets were filled with traffic. Our jeep caravan stopped in the narrow lane in traffic for about 20 minutes, and kids came out to show us their sparkling, colorful purses and pens for sale.

As we came up to the top, goats were stationed on the rock foundations. Elephants with elaborate face-painting and large platform saddles sadly carried lazy tourists up the hill and into a different gate. There was a wide view of India’s countryside. We walked around the grounds, exploring the alcoves of columns and enjoying the hilltop breezes passing through them.

Amer Amber Fort and Palace and Maota Lake, Jaipur India.
Amber Fort and Palace and Maota Lake, Jaipur India.
Unethical Elephant ride to/from the Amber Fort.
Hey Man, enjoying your ride and phone call? Please DON’T take an elephant ride to/from the Amber Fort. Use a jeep instead, or better yet…WALK!
Inside the Amber Fort, Jaipur India.
Inside the Amber Fort, Jaipur India.
Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Ganesh Gate at Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Workers and Tourists in in Sheesh Mahal, a pavilion at Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Workers and tourists in Sheesh Mahal, a pavilion at Amber Palace, Jaipur India.

 

Into the Rich World of Amber Palace

Moving as a group, we topped the crowded stairs to the shining Ganesh Gate and entered a cool interior. I looked up to see a glowing ceiling medallion. One of the guides explained the design was created from paints made by crushing jewels and stones:  the blues are from lapis lazuli, the golds from sulphur and citrine, the greens from malachite, and the oranges from hematite.

We walked around a large, geometric garden. Lush and tidy, and tinkling with fountains, this garden separated the Hall of Pleasure from the Mirror Palace. Built in the 1500s, the Sukh Mahal (Hall of Pleasure) is where the family stayed in hot, humid monsoon season. Water flows through piping and channels to cool the courtyard, and to entertain the harem with the music of the water and the clinking bottles of wine cooling in the streams. Across the garden is the Mirror Palace, used in winter months, when the thousands of little mirrors look like “glittering jewels in candlelight”.

Ceiling medallion in Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Inside Ganesh Gate, this ceiling design was of paints made by crushing jewels and stones—blues of lapis lazuli, golds of sulphur and citrine, greens from malachite, and oranges from hematite.
Sukh Mahal Hall of Pleasure ceiling amber palace jaipur india
The ceiling in the Hall of Pleasure. Sukh Mahal, Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Looking over at Hall of Mirrors from the Hall of Pleasure. Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Looking over at the Hall of Mirrors from the Hall of Pleasure. Amber Palace, Jaipur India.
Sheesh Mahal, Mirror Palace. The mosaics and mirrors, Jaipur India,
Inside Sheesh Mahal, Mirror Palace: The mosaics and mirrors have colored foil and glass, and are painted to glitter under candlelight.

 

A Procession for Wishes Granted

Pots of coconuts and flowers, a procession near Jaipur India.
Pots of coconuts and flowers, a procession near Jaipur India.

On the way home, we came upon a loud, happy, colorful procession. Khush explained that these processions were to say thanks for favors given, wishes granted, or prayers answered. First, a truck leads, with speakers blasting music. Then, men and boys follow the truck, dancing and inviting strangers into the procession. Last, a crowd of ladies follows, wearing colorful saris and carrying pots filled with coconuts and flowers. Someone asked if we could stop. Naturally, Khush said yes, and “you will be welcome to join them”. As he said, this crowd greeted us with smiles and absorbed us into their happy midst.

At the head of the procession is a truck blaring happy music, Outside Jaipur, India.
At the head of the procession is a truck blaring happy music and boys dancing. Outside Jaipur, India.
Joining the procession in Jaipur, India.
Joining the procession in Jaipur, India.
Lovely saris, in the back of the procession. Near Jaipur, India.
Lovely saris, in the back of the procession. Near Jaipur, India.
Saying goodbye after we extracted ourselves from the procession. Near Jaipur India.
Afterwards, saying goodbye once we extracted ourselves from the procession. Near Jaipur India.

 

The Water Palace

Next, we stopped at the Water Palace (Jal Mahal) which appears to float like magic on Man Sagar Lake. Built in the 1750s, an astonishing four stories of the palace sit below the water. What magical protection it must have–sitting on the water and not drowning in the lake.

It was here at this stop I met a legless man selling small cast-iron, hand-painted oxen, elephants, and bowls–maybe the India version of the American Indian fetishes I cherish. I leaned over his spread of items, carefully chose one, and he scooted around on his hands to collect my dollar. I picked a small strong white buffalo, painted with a red blanket and face decorations. What strength and fortitude it took for this man to be here, to smile.

Water Palace (Jal Mahal) floats on Man Sagar Lake.
The Water Palace (Jal Mahal) floats on Man Sagar Lake

Magic and Protection, Strength and Fortitude

Many times, Khush would bring a few items from street vendors onto the bus as we loaded up to leave a place saying, “Would anyone love to have X for only 50 rupees?” It was a respectful way to support the locals and to give us an opportunity to buy souvenirs. At these times, the vendors stood in a crowd at the door smiling in.

On this day, Khush brought in Raheem—a boy magician. The boy with the beautiful eyes rode with us for several miles, doing shell game tricks on the floor of the bus with three metal pots, a fruit pit, and a clanging metal wand. He spoke a magic spell to pull a coin from Carina’s nose and then one from my knee. When asked, Raheem said he was 6 years old. But, Khush smiled at the boy– doing the Indian bobble-head–while saying “No…he is maybe 8 or 9”. Afterwards, we paid Raheem for his magic show, and the driver let him off the bus a few miles down the road.

Raheem—a boy magician who joined our bus ride for a few miles. Jaipur India.
Raheem, a boy magician, joined our bus ride for a few miles in Jaipur, India.
Chilis & Lemons on a car bumper for protection. Jaipur India.
Similar to an evil eye, many cars have 7 chilis and a lemon strung and hung on their bumpers for protection. Jaipur India.

 

Thank you for reading

Select photos are available on Etsy.

Also, if you’ve been to India, please leave a comment about your favorite memories and places! I’m dying to go back and would love recommendations.

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