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Road Trip: Seattle, the Pacific Ocean, and Portland

Posted by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com
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November 12: Roslyn, Washington to Seattle. Starting mileage: 36,363.

Today, we began a three-night whirlwind across the Pacific Northwest. We left Roslyn for one night in Seattle, one night at the Pacific Ocean, and one night in Portland. Despite the overcast skies and the frequent rain squalls, it was not enough time in any one of these places.

Over the Snoqualmie Pass to Seattle

We drove out of Northern Exposure’s Cicely heading west over the Cascade Mountain Range, and passed over Snoqualmie Pass just before a snow storm. First, we would spend a day in Seattle with my step-brother seeing the views from Columbia Center Tower and the Space Needle, riding the Light Rail and Monorail, and catching up over a couple of meals.

snow snoqualmie pass washington
Passing through precipitation in Snoqualmie Pass, Washington. We loved these vistas of water, trees, and the snowy, fog-covered mountains. 
Trees road snow mountains washington snoqualmie pass
Trees hug the road as we passed through Snoqualmie Pass, Washington.
Elliott Bay Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower Seattle Washington
Looking West into Elliott Bay and Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower. Seattle, Washington.
Space needle puget sound columbia Center tower seattle Washington
Looking North at the Space Needle and Puget Sound from Columbia Center Tower. Seattle, Washington.
East at I-90's floating bridge across Lake Washington to Mercer Island. From Columbia Center Tower, Seattle, Washington.
Looking East at I-90’s floating bridge across Lake Washington to Mercer Island. From Columbia Center Tower, Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy walking the hills of downtown Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy walking the hills of downtown Seattle, Washington.
Mama Lucy at the Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
Mama Lucy at the Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
The Space Needle, Seattle, WA
The Space Needle, Seattle, WA.
Neon Monorail sign. Seattle WA
Neon Monorail sign. Seattle WA. Neon looks extra special in this grey, rainy, foggy environment. More NEON Seattle!  More NEON!  🙂
Walrus Arctic Club Seattle Washington
Walruses decorate the Arctic Club Building, in Seattle, Washington. It was built in 1916 for the Arctic Club, a social group for those who gained wealth in Alaska’s Klondike Gold Rush.
Seattle, Washington's Light Rail tunnel
Seattle, Washington’s Light Rail tunnel.

 

November 13: Seattle to Ocean Shores, Washington. Starting mileage: 36,445.

Early the next morning, Mama Lucy and I stopped by Pike’s Place Market for a walk around and a stash of food:  savory potato and cheese pirogies from Piroshky Piroshky, light, fluffy and yummy chocolate croissants from Le Panier, and hot coffee from the very first Starbucks. It’s no wonder Starbucks sprouted in Seattle. Hot coffee tastes extra special in that rainy, foggy environment.

Cargo containers in Seattle, Washington.
Cargo containers lined the side of the interstates around Seattle. Washington. Fascinating to see so many of those cargo ships coming/going from Seattle’s port. Seattle imports furniture parts, aircraft parts, and car parts and exports civilian aircraft, soybeans, and corn. The top three trade partners of Seattle Port are China, Canada, and South Korea (according to USTradeNumbers.com).
Neon inside Pike's Place Market. Seattle, WA.
Neon inside Pike’s Place Market. Seattle, WA. 
Mama Lucy at Public Market / Farmers Market - Pike's Place Seattle, WA.
Mama Lucy at Public Market – Farmers Market – Pike’s Place as the sun tries to come out. Seattle, WA.
Public Market Neon in the Sky at Pike's Place. Seattle, WA
At last, blue skies! Public Market neon sign in a nearly-clear sky at Pike’s Place. Seattle, WA.

 

We left a partly sunny Seattle. Next, we planned to stay an afternoon and night at the Pacific Ocean. I’d researched carefully to find a hotel as close to the ocean as possible so that we could enjoy a walk on the beach and the sounds of the Pacific at night. However, weather reports told us we were driving into a storm.

Ocean Shores and an angry Pacific Ocean

The further west we drove, the darker the skies became. Soon, the wind and the rain came. By the time we reached the northern peninsula separating Gray’s Harbor from the ocean, the wind gusts were punching the car. We marveled at how much the trees lining the road could bend, and drove cautiously past blue signs noting this was a “Tsunami Hazard Area”, and we were on a “Tsunami Evacuation Route”. The Pacific, sometimes visible between houses and forests, was angry, tossing waves high and hard into the shoreline. We pulled in to an empty parking lot at the Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn. The wind nearly blew the door off the car when we got out. Thankfully, we were able to check in early and we tucked in to our cozy room to watch the storm.

Wind swept the grasses; white caps were visible in the fog and mist. This was not a pacified Pacific, but a wide, wild expanse of fury. We sat in our little living room, picnicking on our Pike’s Place market pirogies and croissants. Despite the storm charge in the air, it was a quiet, relaxing afternoon. We read, did laundry, journaled, talked, and daydreamed. We were two of just eighteen guests at the hotel that day. Later, I’d dreamed of waves and flying over mountains like a bird.

Trees and rain, driving from Seattle to Ocean Shores, WA.
Trees and rain, driving into the storm from Seattle to Ocean Shores, WA.
Pouring rain at the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Shores, WA.
Pouring rain at the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Shores, WA.

 

November 14: Ocean Shores, WA to Portland, OR. Starting mileage: 36,596.

Bad road to an angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
Bad road to an angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.

The next morning, the rain seemed to have tapered, but the wind was still raging. Regardless, I walked to the beach to pay respects to the Pacific Ocean…and to thank it for not coming for us during the night. The waves were syncopated, nearly constant and loud. The sand skidded and swirled across the beach. Seagulls sat in forlorn groups near dunes, soaked and caked in muddy sand. I took photos and tried to avoid the sand blasting my eyes and my camera. Sand stung my cheeks, stuck to my hair, and blew into my mouth. The seagulls came closer–one in particular looked like he was asking for help. I wished I’d brought bread. As I took a photo of him with our hotel in the background, the rain returned. There was lightning. I couldn’t hear the thunder for the roar of the Pacific. Turning my back on the wind (but not the ocean!), I pushed my camera into a bag and said “Goodbye” to the Pacific and “Good Luck” to the seagull. I was soaked to the skin by the time I got back to the room.

An angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
An angry Pacific Ocean. Ocean Shores, WA.
Soaking wet seagull at the Pacific Ocean in Ocean Shores, Washington.
Soaking wet seagull at the Pacific Ocean. Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn in the background. Ocean Shores, Washington.

 

Storm at the Pacific Ocean

Turns out, this windstorm was extremely powerful. Winds were sustained at 30-40 mph and gusted to 60 mph. There was a high surf advisory and “significant beach erosion and wave run-up was possible”. Trees were falling. Power lines were coming down. Heavy rain was coming. We didn’t know all that at the time, and went about packing up and loading out. Mama went down for the luggage cart while I changed into dry clothes. And then, the power went out. A pop, a flicker, then silence.

Oh no, Mama would be in the elevator by now! I grabbed the key and ran out of the room towards the elevator, yelling for her. The place was eerily quiet. I heard no other guests, just the wind whipping the flags and the windows. The hallways were lit only by window light. Doors were closed in places I had not even noticed had doors. The stairwell emergency light was on. Just as I hit the darkened lobby, Mama walked out of the elevator. She’d been stuck in the dark elevator for about two minutes. Thankfully, she’d rung the bell and the receptionist got her out on the ground floor right away. They told us that the power was out because of a lightning strike, and just how bad this storm was. Fortunately, the power was out for only about 30 minutes.

Power outage in the storm at Best Western Lighthouse Suites at Ocean Shores, WA.
Lobby lit by the windows and an emergency lantern during the power outage. Best Western Lighthouse Suites Inn at Ocean Shores, WA.

 

On the road to Portland, Oregon

As we drove out of Ocean Shores, we marveled at the raw power of nature, and the fine line this community lived on there next to the powerful Pacific Ocean.

This area of the country has such a fragrant, fresh, stunning beauty because of the trees, mountains, and the rain. However, the logging of trees provides income to the residents. As a result, it is common to see fresh-cut tree logs piled high on semi-trucks, and logs and lumber stacked high at roadside factories. I wondered if the trees along the roads mourned their fallen kin.

Driving from Ocean Shores, Washington to Portland, Oregon
Fresh air and forests line the drive from Ocean Shores, WA to Portland, OR.
Log carrying truck in Oregon Washington Pacific Northwest logging
Alas, this frequent sight, a log-carrying truck in Oregon.
Logging facility in Oregon.
…And, a logging facility in Oregon.
Hairnets for the mountains. Portland, OR.
Hairnets for the mountains. Portland, OR.

 

Finally, we were in Portland for one big reason…to see our friend Tonya and eat at her pizza place, Via Chicago. She makes the pizzas from scratch. If you’re in Portland, you won’t regret stopping by for a tasty Chicago pizza pie.

Tonya Mayhew at Via Chicago. Portland, OR.
Tonya at Via Chicago. Portland, OR.

 

Road Trip: High Desert to Cascadia

Posted by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com
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My mom and I were on a seven-week road trip across the USA. We were now headed north from the desolate, high desert of Utah, and west into the lush area known as Cascadia and the Pacific Northwest.

November 8:  Moab to Ogden, Utah. Starting mileage:  35,334.

When we left our brand new hotel in Moab, workers were finally hanging the sign. It was windy, and red sand scattered across the road like snow. We were so happy about seeing Arches National Park yesterday. And though the poor car was still a dusty mess, we were leaving Moab with clean clothes and great memories.

Today, the plan was to drive north, mosey through Salt Lake City, and then drive over the seven-mile causeway out to Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake for a meal before going to our hotel in Ogden.

Leaving Moab’s Desert

The day started on a high desert, two-lane road with frequent turn-outs near Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Red cliffs surrounded us on this otherwise empty desert plateau. We saw a raven dive down and carry off what looked like a squirrel. We started keeping a weather eye open for cows on the road after seeing a sign warning drivers of “Free Range Cattle”. And when we saw a sign that Green River would be the last services for 110 miles, we pulled over there for gas.

Red hills blue sky driving on 191 Moab, Utah.
Red hills and blue sky as we drove North on 191 out of Moab, Utah.

 

Americana in the Book Cliffs

The landscape became scrub grass on hills, sometimes with mountains like wrinkled grey elephant legs standing in the background. Empty land stretched for miles, with a high ridge of cliffs running beside the road. In a few hours, we passed through Wellington. The 50 & 6 Diner was closed, a school bus sat “for sale” on the roadside, several shops had “for rent” signs, service stations were boarded up, and ragged houses sat close to the road like they were about to thumb rides out of town.

Later we’d pass through Helper, Utah: a railroad / mining town with modest little houses stuffed into the land between the railroad tracks and the road. The traditional main street was empty. The playground was empty. Stores were closed. Old-fashioned Christmas decorations hung from light poles on Main Street. Were they recently hung, or had they been hanging for since the 1950s? A town fading into a ghost town. Or was it? The delightfully-named Pick and Rail Supermarket was open. What must it be like to live in this small, old town? How I’d love to spend some time in these old towns, exploring the buildings, the history, and what once was.

LaSalle Hotel and Fine Food on Main Street in Helper, Utah.
LaSalle Hotel and Fine Food Family Restuarant. Classic Americana found on the empty streets of a railroad town called Helper, Utah.
Snow on the mountains just south of Salt Lake City, Utah.
We saw many grey houses with yellow trim, and grey horses with black manes and tails. Maybe they mimicked the colors of the grey mountains and the black cows hidden in yellow sage grass along the roads. Just south of Salt Lake City, Utah.

 

Salt Lake City and the Great Salt Lake

Our plan was to do a slow, scenic drive through Salt Lake City before having a late lunch at a restaurant on Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake. We drove around Temple Square and the Mormon Tabernacle, the Utah State Capitol, and stumbled upon the Family History Library where FamilySearch.org lives. I’ve done a good bit of family research, and this is another place I would love to park for a few days to explore.

The Great Salt Lake is big…75 miles by 35 miles. I’ve seen it from the air, an awesome size, at the foot of the mountains and outlined in white and green brine. The lake is similar to the Dead Sea, so salty that swimming is like floating. While fish can’t live in the lake, the surrounding wetlands support thousands of migratory and nesting birds. We wanted to stand on the shores of the lake and see it’s expanse. Antelope Island was the place to do that.

We turned left at Syracuse, and headed towards the causeway out to the island. Antelope Island State Park has dry, native grasses that support herds of bison and bighorn sheep. The island has limited facilities, and is accessible via a seven-mile causeway into the lake. We were the only car on the road to the toll booth, and learned that “everything out there is closed for the season.” Before paying the $10 toll or park entrance fee, we pulled over to consider our options. We were hungry. While we had a few snacks in the car, we were running low on water. It would be at least a two, maybe three, hour excursion–driving out there, site-seeing around the deserted and desolate island, and driving back. We decided to skip it in favor of getting to our Ogden hotel before dark.

Buffalo statue at the entrance to Antelope Island, Great Salt Lake, Utah.
Buffalo statue at the entrance to the Causeway out to Antelope Island, Great Salt Lake, Utah.

 

November 9:  Ogden, Utah to Nampa, Idaho. Starting mileage: 35,623.

In the morning, we drove out of Ogden, Utah past the top part of the Great Salt Lake. Today’s road would take us kitty-corner across the bottom of Idaho’s L towards Boise. It was a day of driving through land that looked uninhabited. But the roadside signs suggested times could get interesting around here:

  • “Dust storm area”
  • “Game Crossing”
  • “Deer Migration Area”
  • “Report Wildfire”
  • “Frequent High Winds”
  • “Blinding Blowing Snow”
  • “Drowsy drivers – Pull off ahead”
The Great Salt Lake as seen from I-15 North in Utah.
The Great Salt Lake as seen from I-15 North.
Clear skies and an old barn in North Utah.
Clear skies and an old barn in North Utah.
Tall blonde grass and wide blue skies. Utah.
Sometimes we’d see black cows nearly hidden in the miles of tall blonde grass under wide blue skies. Utah.
Clouds hay barn near border of Utah and Idaho
Near the border of Utah and Idaho, clouds gathered over fields and hay barns.
Desolate road idaho blacktop telephone poles
We watched for potato fields along the desolate roads in Idaho.

 

Hey Idaho, where are the taters?!

Now, I’m a big fan of potatoes–perhaps their biggest cheerleader. I love potatoes any way they’re prepared and swear I could eat them day-in and day-out, morning, noon, and night. Add a little cheese and a cup of coffee, and well, that’s about all I need to survive. So I was pretty excited about having a few potato dishes when we passed through Idaho. Unbelievably, this was not to be.

We pulled over for a diner lunch after seeing a sign for the Fudge Factory Cafe in Glenn’s Ferry. My mouth was already watering, as my brain vividly imagined a homemade cheesy hash brown casserole or a twice-baked potato loaded with cheese and veggies. This was another of those quiet, ghosted little towns sitting along railroad tracks. We drove around empty streets until we found the Fudge Factory Cafe, which also looked eerily empty. Nope. We kept moving.

Old building Glenn's Ferry near Boise Idaho.
Old building in Glenn’s Ferry, Idaho.

 

Just about an hour later, we pulled into the Black Bear Diner in Boise, Idaho for a late lunch. Would you believe they didn’t serve baked potatoes until after 5 p.m.? In IDAHO?!  We sadly went to bed that night…potato-less…in Idaho.

 

November 10:  Nampa, Idaho, through the northeast corner of Oregon, and on to Washington state. Starting mileage: 35,946.

We got back on the road in the morning in a dense fog, or maybe it was smog from the Ore-Ida factory near the border of Oregon. Silly me, only then did I realize where the frozen hash brown king gets the name!  On this 39 degree morning, four people sat smoking on a front porch of a tumbling down house near the border, a tiny neighborhood street stuck there amidst the factory setting. Like so many places we’d see on this trip, we relished seeing the different landscapes–sometimes empty land for miles with hard rocks and ridges for textures, or soft, colorful fields cloaking the hillsides and valleys.  And sprinkled throughout, these old houses and old Main Streets sit, with old ways of life slowly fading away.

Hills somewhere in Eastern Oregon.
Hills and valleys of Oregon and the Pacific Time Zone. 
Mama Lucy writing travel notes in Oregon
We crossed the 45th Parallel just after the quaint little town of Baker City, Oregon. We were halfway between the Equator and the North Pole.
Oregon from above at the Deadman Pass Look-out area. Those are clouds below in the valley.
Blonde grass in Oregon at the Cabbage Hill / Deadman Pass Lookout area. Those are clouds *below* us, covering the valley.
Grass, rocks, and clouds in the valley below. At Deadman Pass Lookout, Oregon.
Grass, rocks, and clouds in the valley below. At Cabbage Hill / Deadman Pass Lookout, Oregon. Our road continued down through those clouds and into a fertile valley of corn and hay, and into Washington State.

 

Soon, we’d pass through a beautiful pass with blonde grass in Oregon, high above the valley and high above the clouds. We could have stayed up there for hours watching the wind ruffle the grass and listening to the silence.

For more about our road trip across the big USA, please see my blog. Select photos are also available for sale. Please email me or check out my Etsy site.