utah

Road Trip: Monument Valley & Four Corners

Posted December 1, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

November 30: Mt. Carmel Junction, UT to Kayenta, AZ. Starting mileage: 39,425.

The day started with breakfast at our favorite diner, Golden Hills Restaurant. Then, we loaded up the car and headed southeast past the Vermillion Cliffs towards Kanab, Kayenta, Monument Valley, and Four Corners.

Best Friends Animal Society

If you are near Kanab, Utah, stop at Best Friends Animal Society. Best Friend’s mission is to end animal homelessness and stop the killing in U.S. shelters. More than 4,000 dogs and cats are euthanized EVERY DAY in shelters around the country and Best Friends is doing everything they can to achieve “No Kill by 2025”. In addition to collaborating with animal shelters to make that goal a reality, Best Friends houses more than 1,500 dogs, cats, rabbits, birds, horses, pigs, and other animals in their Kanab sanctuary. These animals may simply be between homes, or may have special needs that require longer–or permanent–stays. Twenty-two of the “Vicktory” dogs came here to heal after Michael Vick was convicted of animal abuse and dog fighting. Consider sponsoring an animal, or if you’re in the area–sign up to volunteer in the sanctuary or make a quick stop at the Visitor Center.

Into Arizona

We traveled back into Arizona over some of the roads we’d come in on, over Glen Canyon Dam and through Page before turning left onto 98. In the far distance, we could see white smoke rising and making clouds. This was the Navajo Generating Station, a power plant that serves electricity to the area. Shocking height and a powerful reminder of the impact humans have on the natural landscape.

Navajo Generating Station Three flues vent steam from the power plant near Lechee, AZ. — *Three flues vent steam from the Navajo Generating Station power plant near Lechee, AZ.*

Monument Valley

We drove on, continuing down this 2-lane highway, a grey-brown road with veins of black tar spreading like stitches or electrical tape to hold it together. The land was red and orange, and flat. Sometimes, mesas stood tall on this pancaked land–like some giant hand had sat a big slab of butter down. We passed through Kaibito (elevation 6,687 ft), before turning left on 160 and another left on 163 in Kayenta.

This was THAT road. Now, this road has been forever burned in my mind from a cartoon. You know it too, right? But what a delight to see that view in real life! And yes, we looked for roadrunners, and coyotes with Acme suitcases. Nothing. Beep! Beep!

Monument Valley in the Navajo Nation, AZ. — *Monument Valley in Navajo Nation, AZ.*

*Beep beep! That road in Monument Valley!*

Kayenta

We checked in to the Hampton Inn around sundown. After getting situated, we went down to the restaurant and sat right in front of a lit fireplace for a delicious dinner. Mama Lucy visited the gift shop for ghost beads and we slept like babies that night in Navajo Nation.

December 1: Kayenta, AZ to Four Corners. Starting mileage: 39,700.

This land is unique in that it’s flat for miles, and then a formation becomes visible on the horizon. They are surprising, immense, sometimes awkward–sitting there keeping watch over the land and surely helping travelers navigate. Agathla Peak is one of those formations. A jutting rock, a natural watchtower, a regal mountain, it is sacred to the Navajos and can be seen from miles around.

A tribal park stand near Agathla Peak, Arizona. — *Mama Lucy walking at a tribal park stand near Agathla Peak, Arizona.*

Another Photo Not Taken

We continued on 160, heading mostly east with a northerly tilt, through communities like Red Mesa Trading Post (and, yes, there is a red mesa), Dennehotso, and Mexican Water. We saw a long line of horses–brown ones, appaloosas, beige and black ones–slow walking almost single file along a narrow dirt trail, a red mesa behind them. I didn’t stop for that photograph, but I see it clearly still. I hope I’ll always have that image in my mind. Calm, fated and timeless, horse manes blowing in the wind.

*The Red Mesa, near Red Mesa Trading Post, Arizona.*

Four Corners

Next, we headed for the famous Four Corners Monument–a place where you can stand in four states simultaneously…Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico. We drove through Arizona, crossed into New Mexico, and parked. Four Corners is a big, concreted area, with a small medallion in the middle marking the spot, and surrounded by flags of the states and tribes. We walked across four states, and stood on the medallion straddling all four of them for the obligatory photo.

*Four states and a shadow. Four Corners. Arizona, New Mexico, Utah, Colorado.*

*The Four Corners Monument in Navajo Nation.*

Into Colorado

Not long after we returned to the road, we passed into Colorado and the Ute Lands. The colors seemed to change from reds and oranges to golden yellows. Later, we passed Towaoc and Cortez, before stopping for lunch at a cute little diner called The Depot in Dolores, Colorado.

Our road was headed up, up, up. Past Rico (elevation 8,827 ft), through the San Juan National Forest and the San Juan Mountains, and into my version of heaven-on-earth–Telluride.

Entering Colorado right outside Four Corners Monument. — *Entering Colorado near Four Corners Monument.*

*In the Ute Mountain Indian Reservation of Colorado.*

Driving in Southwest Colorado, near Towaoc and Cortez. — *Driving in Southwest Colorado, where the land turns golden yellow. Near Towaoc and Cortez.*

Bell ornaments on white house. A reminder that Christmas is coming in Dolores, CO. — *A reminder in Dolores, Colorado! Christmas is coming soon.*

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Road Trip: Bryce Canyon National Park

Posted November 30, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

November 29: Bryce Canyon National Park. Starting mileage: 39,261.

Likely, you’ve seen photos of the pointed pink and white rock pinnacles–thousands of them in a valley of trails and trees. Bryce Canyon has been on my travel wish list for many years. And today would be the day!

Through Red Canyon and Dixie National Forest

After a wonderful breakfast at our favorite little diner, Golden Hills in Mt. Carmel Junction, we headed to Bryce Canyon, just 50 miles northeast of Zion National Park. This was high desert land is mostly barren but with a few scrubby bushes and trees sprinkled here and there. Along the road, we saw a horse rolling on his back in the dirt, mane tossing and feet peddling in the air–a dust cloud rising around him. We were driving on twisting roads, up, and passed into a land of red rocks. Red Canyon, elevation 7,777 feet, was our first sighting of the formations called “hoodoos”.

Bryce Canyon

While hoodoos can be found in Cappadocia Turkey, France, Japan, Serbia, and Canada, Bryce Canyon has the mother lode of them–more than any other place in the world. In 1923, Bryce Canyon was declared a national monument, and made a national park in February 1928.

Bryce Canyon is really a series of canyons, or natural amphitheaters, carved on the edge of a high plateau. From viewpoints along the 18-mile rim road, visitors can see formations exposed in the valley below. These formations are part of the Grand Staircase–and related to the Grand Canyon and Zion National Park. The youngest parts of the rock layers are exposed in the Bryce Canyon area.

Sunset Point

Our first stop in Bryce Canyon was Sunset Point. It was early and as we walked to the lip of the canyon–the sun was just reaching in. Wow! Just wow. The spires–thousands of them–gleamed in pinks, reds, corals, whites. Layers and layers of stone towered over tiny trails in the valley. We were the only ones there for a few minutes and walked carefully, down a little way into the valley.

*Behind a hoodoo at Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.*

A tree grips the eroding earth below on the rim of Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park. — *A tree grips the eroding earth beneath its trunk on the rim of Sunset Point. Looking towards Inspiration Point. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Looking out at the Silent City from Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Path into the Silent City at Sunset Point. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

Pink, white, and orange hoodoos are all that's left behind from erosion in Bryce Canyon National Park. — *Pink, white, and orange hoodoos are all that’s left behind from erosion in Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Hoodoos, cracks, and crevices. Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.*

Inspiration Point: 8,100 elevation

*Mama Lucy resting along the rim path to Inspiration Point. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

Our next stop was at Inspiration Point, and Upper Inspiration Point. Again, it was deserted, just us and two other girls. “The cliffs of Inspiration Point are exceptionally dangerous as they are formed of crumbly rock, slippery slopes, and sheer drop-offs. All visitors are strongly cautioned to remain on trails and behind railings,” warned the National Park brochure. What an extraordinary view, an eerie silence, and just a breath of whistling wind. Gnarly Bristlecone Pines hung on to the dirt and rustled in the breeze.

The view from Inspiration Point. Bryce Canyon National Park. — *The view from Inspiration Point–Sunset Point in the distance. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Hoodoos rise above trails, as seen from Inspiration Point. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*The hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park. Inspiration Point.*

*A trail through the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon, far below Inspiration Point.*

The white is freshwater limestone, the pink is "dirty" limestone with sand, silt, and iron. Inspiration Point. Bryce Canyon National Park. — *The white hoodoos are freshwater limestone, the pink are “dirty” limestone with sand, silt, and iron. Inspiration Point. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Hoodoos and trees. Inspiration Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*All alone on Upper Inspiration Point. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

Bryce Point: 8,300 ft elevation

We stood for a while at Bryce Point, admiring the plants we could see way down in the valley. It smelled good up there, a faint scent of the piñon pine and juniper. Trees stood tall, and yet looked so tiny far below. We saw rocks with windows and natural arches, in the slow process of eroding into hoodoos.

*Bryce Point. Elevation 8,300 ft. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Windows are one of the final steps before they become hoodoos. Bryce Point at Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Looking back at the rim of the canyon. Bryce Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Mama Lucy at the Bryce Point viewpoint. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Mama Lucy and me at Bryce Point. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Burned trees along the rim of Bryce Canyon National Park.*

Fairview and Ponderosa Points

We stopped at Fairview Point (8,819 ft elevation) and Ponderosa Point (8,904 ft). Each had a view of the valley of hoodoos, windows, arches, and so many beautiful trees and birds.

There are more than 400 native plant species in Bryce Canyon. The brochure said there were piñon pines, junipers, manzanitas, serviceberry bushes, antelope bitterbrush, aspens, cottonwoods, birches, and willows growing along streams in the park. Also, ponderosa pine forests with blue spruce, Douglas fir, white fir, Engelmann spruce, and ancient Great Basin bristlecone pines (some more than 1,600 years old).

Rainbow Point: 9,115 ft. elevation

At the highest point in the park, we could see for miles. The rock layers along the Grand Staircase have sections of pink, vermillion, grey, red, chocolate, and white. In the distance horizon, a tree-covered hill is at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. After this viewpoint, we headed back to the General Store for our pressed pennies and postcards.

*At the highest point in Bryce Canyon National Park, with a raven.*

*Tall trees as we look out from Rainbow Point into the red, chocolate, and grey cliffs of the Grand Staircase and Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*A natural arch bridge or window in Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*A hoodoo with a view. Bryce Canyon National Park.*

Burned trees are Evidence of another forest fire in Bryce Canyon National Park. — *Burned trees are evidence of another forest fire in Bryce Canyon National Park.*

*Road through rock in the Red Canyon. Utah.*

*Sunset and moonrise over Bryce Canyon.*

After Bryce Canyon

On the drive back to Mt. Carmel Junction, we saw a pink sunset over red hills and the moon rising bright white. We saw deer eating in a field, and later, a cow pushed his face and neck into the dirt before rolling over to scratch his back in the dusty field.

We returned for the soup and salad bar buffet dinner at Golden Hills, and tucked in tired!

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Road Trip: Zion National Park

Posted November 29, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

November 28: Grand Canyon to Zion National Park. Starting mileage: 38,969.

This morning, we drove out of the Grand Canyon area, back through the South Rim road and by the Desert View Watchtower. Of course, we stopped again and again–enjoying the light, the sun, the colors, and the fresh air. Today, we were headed for Zion National Park in Utah. Despite the fact that Zion is less than 100 miles away if you were a flying crow, today would be about a four hour ride because the roads have to go around the Grand Canyon, then north to Utah, before jogging back west.

Through Navajo Nation

This land was high desert land, and Navajo Nation land. To the left, was sand and rock with bits of small green bushes. There, we saw what looked like giant ant hills piled among the sage bushes. To the right, were red clay mountains, with foothills that looked wrinkled, like elephant ankles. Along the way, there were stalls for Navajo people to sell their wares along the road side. And we passed through small villages–maybe just a house or two. Spread-out communities with six-sided houses and small buildings dotted the desert. Somewhere near Hidden Springs, we saw a lone man, sitting at the very peak of a small mountain–arms wrapped around bent knees and face to the sun. A tan dog crossed the road.

*A gash in the land for the Little Colorado River. Does the Grand Canyon begin as just a crack?*

Indian portrait art on a building in the Navajo Nation, Arizona. — *Indian portraits: art on a building in Navajo Nation, Arizona.*

Marble Canyon

Eventually, we’d drive up, up, up. The road took us to the shelf of a mountain, a vast valley to our left. We stopped on a curve, with a road crew holding signs directing us to follow a pilot car around a rock slide repair area. Up, up, up. And then, on the crest of the mountain shelf, there was a viewpoint. The valley below ran for miles–cars like ants in the distance. We walked a bit in the sun, the breeze, surrounded by red rocks, before getting in the car and driving through the small gap in the mountain.

Looking down to the valley from high atop Highway 89 in Marble Canyon, Arizona. — *Looking down to the valley and a canyon from high atop Highway 89 in Marble Canyon, Arizona. You can see a tiny road to the lower right, just beside the boulder in the foreground.*

Passing through the break in Marble Canyon's wall. Arizona. — *Passing through the break in Marble Canyon’s wall, Arizona.*

Desert Landscape

We entered another desert scrub landscape–this one higher. Miles and miles of dirt and sage bushes. And then came rocks, and canyons hidden in the rocks. The rocks looked like stacks of red mud pies. And as we passed hills, we’d see deep clefts in the land revealed. Just after Glen Canyon Dam in Page, Arizona, we crossed into Utah.

A yellow caution sign had the added benefit of red lights zooming around the edges. The sign alerted us there might be deer in the area. And we laughed to see a deer standing right behind the sign pole, chewing and staring at us as we slowed down. Later, we pulled over to see a herd of Buffalo, scuffling along in the dust of a field.

A lone remaining "Hoodoo" somewhere in Utah. — *A lone “hoodoo” somewhere in Utah.*

Zion National Park

We were entering Zion from the East on the the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway. Some of the dollops of rocks looked like they were melting–like chunks of caramel or white chocolate drops. It was a clear blue sky and the yellow leaves seemed to glow against the rock backgrounds.

*Checkerboard Mesa, Zion National Park.*

The Tunnel

Imagine our amazement when suddenly a very large, red mountain with a mouse hole appeared on the road ahead of us. Another car was stopped in front of us waiting to enter this mouse hole. Signs all around warned us to turn on headlights, and “DO NOT STOP!” in the tunnel.

We entered slowly. It was the most narrow tunnel I’ve ever seen, I wondered if the top of the car would scrape. And oh so dark. And it went on, and on, and on. Every now and again, we’d pass an opening in the rock and see a valley far far down. It was a terrifying surprise. Finally, we exited the tunnel and I had to stop for a minute.

This Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel is 1.1 miles long, was completed in 1930, and is basically the same as it was upon completion nearly 90 years ago. However, because of the softness of the sandstone mountain through which it passes, concrete ribs now reinforce the entire tunnel. After a pillar collapsed in 1958, the tunnel is now electronically monitored twenty-four hours a day to warn park officials if there is danger of cracks or movement.

Entering the West side of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. Zion National Park. — *Final warnings: no bikes, no pedestrians as we enter the West end of the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. Zion National Park.*

*Another tunnel through sandstone mountains in Zion National Park.*

The Scenic Zion Canyon

After I’d had a few minutes to get over that tunnel, we continued on–driving carefully through the switchback roads down to the Zion Canyon floor. We stopped for the bighorn sheep standing on the red-layered hills and road shoulders all around us. One stood beside the stopped car, and we played that game “no, you go first. Oh, ok, I’ll go. Oh, ok you go.” Every time he was still and I let the car roll, he’d make a step. I stopped, he stopped, and we stared at each other. Please don’t ram the car Mr. Bighorn Sheep.

Bighorn Sheep are skilled climbers and choose steep, rocky terrain, to allow them to escape from predators like mountain lions. Zion National Park. — *Bighorn Sheep are skilled climbers and can scamper up this steep, rocky terrain, faster than the mountain lions. Zion National Park.*

*Bighorn sheep dot the red rock hillside. Zion National Park.*

Usually, the scenic drive in Zion Canyon is closed to private vehicles from April through October, and all visitors have to ride shuttle buses to the valley. But it was November, and we got to drive on the flat valley floor. We studied the National Park map and info and saw that the peak to our left, “the Sentinel” had collapsed some 4,800 years ago. The giant landslide covered this canyon floor with rock debris for two miles. At the time, my first thought was about our need to exit the park through that crazy narrow sandstone tunnel.

Beginning in the 1860s, the floor of Zion Canyon was used by European settlers who farmed corn, tobacco, and fruit trees. Settlers in the area also took trees and used the valley for grazing farm animals. Finally, in 1909, the area was recognized as the Mukuntuweap National Monument, and established as Zion National Park in 1919.

*The East Temple, as seen from the Valley Floor, Zion National Park.*

The Sentinel, as seen from the valley floor of Zion National Park. — *Part of the Sentinel, as seen from the valley floor of Zion National Park.*

*Red cliff walls in Zion National Park.*

*The Great White Throne, near Angels Landing. Zion National Park.*

*The Great White Throne, and Angels Landing. Zion National Park.*

Zion Details

Zion’s canyon walls are Navajo Sandstone eroded by the North Fork of the Virgin River. Not surprising, there is such beauty in these tortured, twisted, melted rocks–the colors, the shapes, the layers, and how the mountains and their trees jut up to the sky. As we drove along the valley floor, we stopped often–sometimes in sun, sometimes in shade–to admire the sheer red rock walls, the sheer white rock walls, the trees hanging on and reaching high, the yellow leaves of autumn, and the birds singing through the canyon.

Red sandstone cliffs. Zion National Park. — *The moon over red sandstone cliffs. Zion National Park.*

Looking up at a tree growing on the red sandstone hill. Zion National Park. — *Looking up at a tree growing on the red sandstone cliff. Zion National Park.*

*Grains of sand settle on the sandstone mountain. Zion National Park.*

*Layers of sandstone give just a little room to trees. Zion National Park.*

Good people

Later, we made our way to the Zion Lodge to see about pressing our pennies and mailing postcards. We purchased a few postcards and as we were preparing to sit in the lobby and write greetings to drop in the Lodge mailbox, we inquired about a penny press machine. Yes! They had one! Alas, it was locked in the cafe–which was closed for the season. Maybe they could see our utter disappointment, or maybe they were just sweet people…but while we sat in the lobby working on our postcards, those guys MOVED that big old penny machine to an accessible area for us. We must have looked like kids at Christmas when they came to the lobby to tell us: “M’ams, the PENNY MACHINE is ready in the gift shop now if you still want to make your pennies.”

Afterwards, we drove out of Zion, safely passing through that tunnel. We checked in to our hotel in Mt. Carmel Junction a perfect location between Zion and Bryce National Parks. We were starving. Thankfully, the Golden Hills diner was close…and surprise…they had a salad bar! We had the place pretty much to ourselves and filled up on a delicious salad and soup. The people were friendly, the menu had lots of options, the food was good, and the prices very reasonable. It became kind of like our Zion-Bryce kitchen while we were in Mt. Carmel Junction, as we ate all our meals in their cozy diner.

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Road Trip: High Desert to Cascadia

Posted November 10, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

My mom and I were on a seven-week road trip across the USA. We were now headed north from the desolate, high desert of Utah, and west into the lush area known as Cascadia and the Pacific Northwest.

November 8: Moab to Ogden, Utah. Starting mileage: 35,334.

When we left our brand new hotel in Moab, workers were finally hanging the sign. It was windy, and red sand scattered across the road like snow. We were so happy about seeing Arches National Park yesterday. And though the poor car was still a dusty mess, we were leaving Moab with clean clothes and great memories.

Today, the plan was to drive north, mosey through Salt Lake City, and then drive over the seven-mile causeway out to Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake for a meal before going to our hotel in Ogden.

Leaving Moab’s Desert

The day started on a high desert, two-lane road with frequent turn-outs near Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. Red cliffs surrounded us on this otherwise empty desert plateau. We saw a raven dive down and carry off what looked like a squirrel. We started keeping a weather eye open for cows on the road after seeing a sign warning drivers of “Free Range Cattle”. And when we saw a sign that Green River would be the last services for 110 miles, we pulled over there for gas.

Red hills blue sky driving on 191 Moab, Utah. — *Red hills and blue sky as we drove North on 191 out of Moab, Utah.*

Americana in the Book Cliffs

The landscape became scrub grass on hills, sometimes with mountains like wrinkled grey elephant legs standing in the background. Empty land stretched for miles, with a high ridge of cliffs running beside the road. In a few hours, we passed through Wellington. The 50 & 6 Diner was closed, a school bus sat “for sale” on the roadside, several shops had “for rent” signs, service stations were boarded up, and ragged houses sat close to the road like they were about to thumb rides out of town.

Later we’d pass through Helper, Utah: a railroad / mining town with modest little houses stuffed into the land between the railroad tracks and the road. The traditional main street was empty. The playground was empty. Stores were closed. Old-fashioned Christmas decorations hung from light poles on Main Street. Were they recently hung, or had they been hanging for since the 1950s? A town fading into a ghost town. Or was it? The delightfully-named Pick and Rail Supermarket was open. What must it be like to live in this small, old town? How I’d love to spend some time in these old towns, exploring the buildings, the history, and what once was.

LaSalle Hotel and Fine Food on Main Street in Helper, Utah. — *LaSalle Hotel and Fine Food Family Restuarant. Classic Americana found on the empty streets of a railroad town called Helper, Utah.*

Snow on the mountains just south of Salt Lake City, Utah. — We saw many grey houses with yellow trim, and grey horses with black manes and tails. Maybe they mimicked the colors of the grey mountains and the black cows hidden in yellow sage grass along the roads. Just south of Salt Lake City, Utah.

Salt Lake City and the Great Salt Lake

Our plan was to do a slow, scenic drive through Salt Lake City before having a late lunch at a restaurant on Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake. We drove around Temple Square and the Mormon Tabernacle, the Utah State Capitol, and stumbled upon the Family History Library where FamilySearch.org lives. I’ve done a good bit of family research, and this is another place I would love to park for a few days to explore.

The Great Salt Lake is big…75 miles by 35 miles. I’ve seen it from the air, an awesome size, at the foot of the mountains and outlined in white and green brine. The lake is similar to the Dead Sea, so salty that swimming is like floating. While fish can’t live in the lake, the surrounding wetlands support thousands of migratory and nesting birds. We wanted to stand on the shores of the lake and see it’s expanse. Antelope Island was the place to do that.

We turned left at Syracuse, and headed towards the causeway out to the island. Antelope Island State Park has dry, native grasses that support herds of bison and bighorn sheep. The island has limited facilities, and is accessible via a seven-mile causeway into the lake. We were the only car on the road to the toll booth, and learned that “everything out there is closed for the season.” Before paying the $10 toll or park entrance fee, we pulled over to consider our options. We were hungry. While we had a few snacks in the car, we were running low on water. It would be at least a two, maybe three, hour excursion–driving out there, site-seeing around the deserted and desolate island, and driving back. We decided to skip it in favor of getting to our Ogden hotel before dark.

Buffalo statue at the entrance to Antelope Island, Great Salt Lake, Utah. — *Buffalo statue at the entrance to the Causeway out to Antelope Island, Great Salt Lake, Utah.*

November 9: Ogden, Utah to Nampa, Idaho. Starting mileage: 35,623.

In the morning, we drove out of Ogden, Utah past the top part of the Great Salt Lake. Today’s road would take us kitty-corner across the bottom of Idaho’s L towards Boise. It was a day of driving through land that looked uninhabited. But the roadside signs suggested times could get interesting around here:

“Dust storm area”
“Game Crossing”
“Deer Migration Area”
“Report Wildfire”
“Frequent High Winds”
“Blinding Blowing Snow”
“Drowsy drivers – Pull off ahead”

The Great Salt Lake as seen from I-15 North in Utah. — *The Great Salt Lake as seen from I-15 North.*

*Clear skies and an old barn in North Utah.*

Tall blonde grass and wide blue skies. Utah. — *Sometimes we’d see black cows nearly hidden in the miles of tall blonde grass under wide blue skies. Utah.*

Clouds hay barn near border of Utah and Idaho — *Near the border of Utah and Idaho, clouds gathered over fields and hay barns.*

Desolate road idaho blacktop telephone poles — *We watched for potato fields along the desolate roads in Idaho.*

Hey Idaho, where are the taters?!

Now, I’m a big fan of potatoes–perhaps their biggest cheerleader. I love potatoes any way they’re prepared and swear I could eat them day-in and day-out, morning, noon, and night. Add a little cheese and a cup of coffee, and well, that’s about all I need to survive. So I was pretty excited about having a few potato dishes when we passed through Idaho. Unbelievably, this was not to be.

We pulled over for a diner lunch after seeing a sign for the Fudge Factory Cafe in Glenn’s Ferry. My mouth was already watering, as my brain vividly imagined a homemade cheesy hash brown casserole or a twice-baked potato loaded with cheese and veggies. This was another of those quiet, ghosted little towns sitting along railroad tracks. We drove around empty streets until we found the Fudge Factory Cafe, which also looked eerily empty. Nope. We kept moving.

Old building Glenn's Ferry near Boise Idaho. — *Old building in Glenn’s Ferry, Idaho.*

Just about an hour later, we pulled into the Black Bear Diner in Boise, Idaho for a late lunch. Would you believe they didn’t serve baked potatoes until after 5 p.m.? In IDAHO?! We sadly went to bed that night…potato-less…in Idaho.

November 10: Nampa, Idaho, through the northeast corner of Oregon, and on to Washington state. Starting mileage: 35,946.

We got back on the road in the morning in a dense fog, or maybe it was smog from the Ore-Ida factory near the border of Oregon. Silly me, only then did I realize where the frozen hash brown king gets the name! On this 39 degree morning, four people sat smoking on a front porch of a tumbling down house near the border, a tiny neighborhood street stuck there amidst the factory setting. Like so many places we’d see on this trip, we relished seeing the different landscapes–sometimes empty land for miles with hard rocks and ridges for textures, or soft, colorful fields cloaking the hillsides and valleys. And sprinkled throughout, these old houses and old Main Streets sit, with old ways of life slowly fading away.

Hills somewhere in Eastern Oregon. — *Hills and valleys of Oregon and the Pacific Time Zone.*

Mama Lucy writing travel notes in Oregon — *We crossed the 45th Parallel just after the quaint little town of Baker City, Oregon. We were halfway between the Equator and the North Pole.*

Oregon from above at the Deadman Pass Look-out area. Those are clouds below in the valley. — *Blonde grass in Oregon at the Cabbage Hill / Deadman Pass Lookout area. Those are clouds *below* us, covering the valley.*

Grass, rocks, and clouds in the valley below. At Deadman Pass Lookout, Oregon. — Grass, rocks, and clouds in the valley below. At Cabbage Hill / Deadman Pass Lookout, Oregon. Our road continued down through those clouds and into a fertile valley of corn and hay, and into Washington State.

Soon, we’d pass through a beautiful pass with blonde grass in Oregon, high above the valley and high above the clouds. We could have stayed up there for hours watching the wind ruffle the grass and listening to the silence.

For more about our road trip across the big USA, please see my blog. Select photos are also available for sale. Please email me or check out my Etsy site.

Road Trip: Arches National Park

Posted November 8, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

November 6: Grand Junction, CO to Moab, UT. Starting mileage 35,144.

Back in Denver, we’d gotten advice on places to see and things to do. One strong recommendation was to fill up the gas tank as often as possible once we got out into the more remote areas of the wild west. Like the possibility of snow in Rocky Mountain Novembers, this wasn’t something I’d thought about, but of course, it made sense. So, near the turn-off for Moab, we pulled into Papa Joe’s for gas…and quickly pulled out again. $4.99 a gallon! That was more than $2.00 a gallon higher than anywhere else we’d seen so far. Outrageous!

No worries, we soon found a reasonably-priced filling station and continued on into Moab. We stopped first thing in Arches National Park Guest Center to get familiar with what to see and how to see it. We decided that given the time and our hunger, we’d save the park for tomorrow. But we did whet our appetite by pouring over the postcards, picking up park maps, and watching the introductory video. This place was going to be amazing!

Finding our Brand New Hotel

After dinner at the Moab Grill, we went to check-in at our second Springhill Suites by Marriott Hotel. We had an address for Siri, but she never said a word. We drove out of Moab. Where was the hotel? It was supposed to be the closest hotel to Arches National Park. We drove back in to Moab. Nothing. We turned around and drove more slowly back the other way, out of Moab. And, back in again. What the heck? We pulled in to a parking lot and made a phone call for directions. The lady on the phone described the building, and the turn off just past the river. The hotel had only been open for four days, and they hadn’t put the sign up yet.

A few minutes later, we pulled into the right parking lot and drove around the unmarked building looking for a lobby door. Lucky for us, check-in was easier than finding the place, or the door to get in. The fireplace was lit in the lobby, and we lingered there for a minute before finding a luggage cart to take our bags up. We’ve never stayed in such a new place! Our room had never been slept in. Everything smelled new and clean–from the woodwork, dry wall construction and fresh paint, to the brand new sheets and towels, and spotless carpeting. What a treat!

Laundry soap bleach softeners laundry detergent supplies vending machine at hotel — *Thank goodness hotels have coin-operated laundry rooms and vending machines of detergents.*

Doing Laundry on the Road

We had left Chicago and Nashville about 10 days ago and we were running out of clean clothes. Thankfully, the hotel had a coin-operated laundry room for guests. For $10.00, we did two loads of laundry, while catching up on journals and photo downloads. Not a bad way to spend an evening, considering the crazy days of driving we’d had recently.

November 7: Arches National Park. Starting mileage 35,264.

We were up and out early the next morning. Today, we were using our National Park Annual Pass for the first time. Arches would be the first of many national parks we’d see on our road trip.

National Parks

In 1872, President Ulysses S. Grant signed a bill that created our first national park, Yellowstone. The National Park System was established 44 years later by The Organic Act of 1916: “to conserve the scenery and the natural and historic objects and wildlife therein, and to provide for the enjoyment of the same in such manner and by such means as will leave them unimpaired for the enjoyment of future generations.” Today, the U.S. National Park system contains 60 National Parks and a number of national monuments and historical sites.

Our National Parks are treasures. They are sweeping and majestic scenery preserved for us, and native animals. They are history saved and remembered for us. And as Ken Burns and PBS say, they are America’s Best Idea. An annual pass is just $80 and allows a carful of people to enter any of our national parks. I cannot recommend the parks or the pass enough.

Arches National Park

We proudly showed our National Park Annual Pass to the Park Ranger at the entry gate that morning. I smiled and stared at his Smokey the Bear hat as he handed down a newspaper map with the formations, roads, and trails. And then we began our drive into the park…up, up, up. The road twisted and turned, doubling back on the mountain’s ridge as we climbed into the park and the Ranger’s station got smaller and smaller below us.

Originally named a national monument in 1929, Arches was re-designated a full-on National Park in November 1971. In its 76,000 acres, Arches National Park contains more than 2,000 natural sandstone arches and unique rock formations with descriptive names like Balanced Rock, the 3 Gossips, and Sheep Rock.

On the morning we entered, the sun turned the rocks orange against a blue, blue sky and a full white moon lingered in the horizon just above the rocks. Arches was a complete surprise to us. We hadn’t planned to be here and we were blown away by the place. Just a few minutes into the drive, Mama Lucy asked that we stop to clean the windows for better viewing opportunities.

Arches National Park moon over mammoth rocks and sandstone formations — *Near the entrance to Arches National Park, the moon sets over mammoth rocks and sandstone formations.*

Mama Lucy cleans car window for better viewing. Arches National Park. — *Mama Lucy cleans her window for better viewing. Just inside the entrance to Arches National Park.*

A Day in Arches National Park

It appeared that we were the first car into the park that morning, because when we pulled over at La Sal Mountains Viewpoint, all we heard was the wind in the desert. The sun warmed us as we looked out at stone formations called the 3 Gossips, Sheep Rock, The Tower of Babel, and The Organ. My-oh-my, what an astonishing view!

We spent the day like this…driving a little way, hopping out to walk a bit and photograph a lot, and gawking and expressing our happiness that our changed plans had allowed us to see this place. The park is easily accessible and you can see a lot from the car, or from short, easy walks. There are longer and more intense hikes for people who can do it. Overall, we were thrilled that Mama Lucy could experience so much without very long or too strenuous walks. Another reminder of what the National Parks System has done to preserve and to share the nation’s great beauty for all of us to see and enjoy.

Courthouse Towers The Three Gossips and Sheep Rock, Arches National Park. — *The Three Gossips and Sheep Rock, in the Courthouse Towers area of Arches National Park.*

Mama Lucy sitting under Balanced Rock, Arches National Park. It is said that the rock is the size of 3 buses. We looked with awe and a little fear at the boulders sitting around us. From which rock pedestal had they fallen?

One of the double arch windows in The Windows Section of Arches National Park. — *A man in one of the double arch windows in The Windows Section of Arches National Park.*

Walks, Lunch, and Taking Care of the Parks

We took short, easy trails to sit beneath Balanced Rock, to walk on the eyelids of the windows that form the Double Arch, to see the sand dunes arch, and to have a picnic lunch among the scrub jays, crows, and tiny chipmunk-like critters near The Devil’s Garden.

I was glad we’d packed lunch and could sit in the sun to eat. We had left over croissants and fruit from breakfast, plus salty snacks, and fresh water in our own Rubbermaid water vessels filled up at the Park’s visitor center. We were very careful to dispose of trash in the ample trash bins along the park’s main road. The parks are a brilliant reminder of how pristine the land can be when humans take care.

A dollop of rock dots a ridge, Arches National Park — *Everywhere you look in Arches National Park, there’s a dollop of rock dotting a ridge, or a window opening to a wide vista.*

Sandstone formation vista on the road north into Arches National Park. — *A vista on the road north into Arches National Park.*

Clouds over the Fiery Furnace Area in Arches National Park. — *Cloud formations over the Fiery Furnace Area in Arches National Park.*

*A road through Arches National Park. This part seemed like an intermission, or a palate cleanser before moving on to the next course.*

Dried mud ground in salt wash arches national park. — Arches National Park is on top of an underground salt bed. At one time, a mile-thick layer of rock covered the salt beds. But over time, the unstable salt beds repositioned under the weight, causing rock fins to jut up. Faults and erosion on these fins or ridges resulted in the arches and formations we see today.

Clouds Melting pancaked rocks along the walk to Delicate Arch, Arches National Park. — *Melted, pancaked rocks along the walk to Delicate Arch, Arches National Park.*

Water in Salt Wash creek runs near Wolfe Ranch in Arches National Park. — *Salt Wash Creek runs near Wolfe Ranch in Arches National Park.*

Carol walking to the Delicate Arch. Arches National Park. — Carol walking to the Delicate Arch, Arches National Park. Thanks to the elderly lady on the trail returning from Delicate Arch who stopped me for a photo. She carefully composed this shot, asking me to turn and walk on in an “active moment.”

At the end of the day

As the day wore on, we wore out. We crammed in as many of the short trails as we could muster. The temperature warmed up and the light changed so that the formations we’d seen in the morning looked different by afternoon. And of course, we had to stop again for more, different photographs.

Follow me. A Pilot car escorts us through an area where road work is happening. Arches National Park. — *Follow me. A pilot car escorts us through an area where road work was happening. Arches National Park.*

Sand Dune arch in Arches National Park. — *The bird-beak Sand Dune Arch in Arches National Park.*

*Vista to the Landscape Arch area in Arches National Park. At the time we were there, this trail was closed.*

The Organ, in Courthouse Towers area of Arches National Park. — *The Organ, in the Courthouse Towers area of Arches National Park.*

Park Avenue from the Viewpoint. Just inside Arches National Park. — *Park Avenue from the Viewpoint. Near the entrance to Arches National Park.*

*Near Park Avenue Viewpoint and Trailhead, Arches National Park.*

*Cloud and rock detail, Park Avenue in Arches National Park.*

Late in the afternoon, we stopped back by the Visitors Center to buy, write, and mail postcards from Arches while we were still in the park. We’d decided on a car wash and dinner at McStiff’s –both seemed an appropriate splurge given our and the car’s busy and physically exhausting day. Alas, neither was available…no car wash to be found in all of Moab, and McStiff’s was closed “for 2 days for Rest and Projects”. We ended up at Moab Diner, and not long afterward, fell into our brand new bedsheets to sleep like babies.

For more information:

Interested in visiting the National Parks? Read more about them here.

Select prints are for sale on my Etsy site. You can also email me for more information about photographs not on Etsy.

And finally, thanks for reading!

Road Trip: The Rocky Mountains

Posted November 6, 2017 by carol.fletcher@rocketmail.com

November 5: The Rocky Mountains. Starting mileage 34,885.

Seeing friends in Denver

We arrived in Denver in a fever, desperate to get the oil changed before the Chevy dealer closed for the weekend. And we did. The car was happy and cared for. We, on the other hand, were still a little antsy from the worry adrenaline when we met up with Denver friends. As we told the story, we started laughing about it–the oil warning light fright, the speedy three hours of driving, and the unexpected encounter with wild-west tumbleweeds. Our first telling was over a home-cooked dinner at Denice’s house, then a late-night evening and breakfast at Lew and Ann’s, and followed by telling the tale over a mid-morning coffee with Jen before we left town,

Snowing on the roads ahead / Change of plans

With our friends, we also highlighted our travels so far and discussed plans to head north to South Dakota’s Badlands before turning west through Wyoming’s Yellowstone, and on to the Pacific coast. We had a National Parks Annual Pass burning a hole in its envelope, just waiting to be used.

I’d been checking the weather. It was snowing in both South Dakota and Wyoming. The forecast called for more snow too. Despite all my destination and route planning, I had not planned on snow. I brought this up with my Colorado friends. Should we try it or re-route?

“Wyoming is 80 mph and usually clear enough…well, except that stretch around Cheyenne.”

“Up there, it’s the wind you have to worry about. But they’ll close the roads if conditions get too bad.”

“You should be ok when you put on chains. You have chains, right?”

Chains!? Mama and I are Southern girls by birth and I have to say I hadn’t ever even considered the need for tire chains. Sure, I live in Chicago now, but I don’t own a car and it’s flat land anyway. As our Denver hours passed, I grew more nervous as another realization sunk in. Crap. Not only do we have to cut out The Badlands, Mt. Rushmore, and Yellowstone, we have to cross the Rockies…in November, maybe in snow. THE Rocky Mountains. The Continental Divide. IN NOVEMBER. What was I thinking?

Making new plans

By the time we met Jen for coffee, a re-route was firming up. The first step was getting over the Rockies. Today. In Colorado. We shouldn’t wait any longer, or go any further north before crossing. I made a reservation at a hotel in Grand Junction, Colorado. It was about four hours away, on the western slope of the Rocky Mountains. Once we got there, we’d assess our options.

After a milky, hot coffee at a jam-packed, nook-and-cranny-cozy Stella’s Coffee Haus, we walked slowly back to the car. It was still fall here. Orange, red, and yellow leaves dotted the ground and were still clinging to the trees in this delightful old neighborhood. The sun was out. “It’s going to be a fine day for crossing the Rocky Mountains”, I repeated to myself, “Just fine.”

Getting over the Rockies

We headed out of Denver on I-70 West just before noon. After a little way, we stopped to fuel up in Georgetown. The air was a bit cooler, the trees more of the evergreen variety here. And some clouds were gathering in front of us.

3-German Shepherds in a truck Rocky Mountains Colorado — *Three German Shepherds waiting in a truck in the Rocky Mountains, Colorado. I took this as a good omen.*

Near Loveland Pass (elevation 11,990) we passed through the mountains. The Eisenhower Tunnel (elevation 11,158) is nearly two miles of unnerving white concrete and freaky yellow lights entered through a mouse hole. When we exited, the clouds were dense and low, and snow patched the mountainsides around us. Skiers were on the mountain slopes.

It started spitting snow and sleet. We saw signs cautioning “Icy Roads”, and just before Silverthorne, one sign read “Trucks, you are not down yet. One more mile of steep grade.” Runaway truck ramps appeared frequently.

We stopped for a scenic overlook after Frisco. Actually, it was a pull-out place designated for putting on tire chains. But it was pretty here by a creek in the cool, fresh alpine air. The road curved onwards around and under mountains. We saw signs for ski towns–Vail (elevation 10,666), Breckenridge, Steamboat Springs, and Independence Pass. Towns included their elevation. The snow sprinkled down, sometimes turning parts of the road white as it blew across. Slow and steady, slow and steady.

Uh oh, a little snow in the Rockies. — *Uh oh, a little snow in the Rocky Mountains. Between Frisco and Copper Mountain, Colorado.*

And then, the road plateaued. The snow became drizzling rain. We breathed again, and I loosened my grip on the steering wheel. We just crossed the Rockies, in November!

The Rocky Mountains’ Western Slopes

We stopped for lunch in Eagle, Colorado, elevation 6,600. In keeping with our road trip lessons, we went for diner food. The Eagle Diner was warm and welcoming with its pink and blue 1950s-themed decor, and the rock-around-the-clock music pumping into the parking lot. Tasty comfort food grilled cheese and tuna-melt sandwiches go so well with hot fries and relief and joy! We’d made it over the Rocky Mountains!

Lucy at eagle diner eagle colorado — *Just after passing over the Rocky Mountains and the Continental Divide, we stopped for lunch at the Eagle Diner in Eagle, CO. Road Trip Lesson #6: Whenever possible, eat at the local diner.*

Back on the westbound road, towns’ elevations were in the 5,000-6,000 range now. Still a mile high, but the threat of poor weather started to fall away. Mama got back to making notes in our travel log as we passed through more tunnels, and saw an exit called “No Name.” As it neared the hour of sunset, we entered Glenwood Canyon as I-70 ran alongside the Colorado River. In the dimming light of a cloudy day, this mighty canyon land was spectacular to see. What beautiful country the mountains are.

Somewhere after crossing the Rockies, the sun came back out for a few minutes. — *Somewhere after crossing the Rocky Mountains, the sun came back out for a few minutes.*

near Glenwood Canyon, Colorado the clouds returned. — *And as we neared Glenwood Canyon, the clouds returned.*

In Glenwood Canyon, Colorado — *In Glenwood Canyon, Rocky Mountains, Colorado.*

Small car ahead, Big Mountain ahead. Colorado. — *Small car and big mountain ahead. Rocky Mountains, Colorado.*

Reassessing in Grand Junction

We arrived not long after dark to our hotel, Springhill Suites in Grand Junction. Our plan was to take a little time to re-plan the next few days. And really, we needed time to just slow down. I think we both slept like babies that night in our comfy, quiet room.

Mama Lucy's make-up bag, parked on the sink in our spacious and lovely Springhill Suites room in Grand Junction, CO. — *Mama Lucy’s make-up bag, parked on the sink in our spacious and lovely Springhill Suites room in Grand Junction, CO.*

November 6: Grand Junction, CO to Moab, UT. Starting mileage 35,144.

The next morning, we enjoyed the free breakfast buffet at the hotel. Great coffee, and Mama’s favorite–a waffle machine! We ate our fill, and took coffee refills back to relax in our suite. Unlike most days on our trip, we weren’t in a hurry to hit the road today. Mama settled in with her iPad and I got busy making some new plans online. We liked our hotel so much, that we stayed until the noon check-out time, and booked another Springhill Suites in our new, next destination: Moab, Utah.

*The road, the clouds, and a view for miles. Western Colorado.*

Utah…Life Elevated!

And we headed out into a beautiful, crisp day. This Colorado-into-Utah part of I-70 is big sky country. Clouds look painted into the bluest-of-blue skies. Roads go on forever. Desolate land. Big land. Roadrunner beep-beep land. This was going to be all right after all.

And thus, Road Trip Lesson #9: Changes happen. Don’t stress, just adjust and go. Every road has something to see.

Our new plan was to break-in the National Parks Annual Pass at Arches National Park. A previously unplanned stop. But hey, we were in the neighborhood. We were over the Rockies. And life is good.

Welcome to Utah sign, clouds — *Welcome to Utah. Life Elevated.*

*What a gorgeous view at a rest stop in Utah.*

Wow Utah. Speed limit 80. — *Wow Utah. Speed Limit 80. Why the hurry?*

*The road is long and stretches out before us. Utah.*

Clouds and cliffs, Utah. — *Clouds, sky, and cliffs, Utah.*

Interested in reading more about this trip? Check out these blog posts about our crazy ride into Denver, about Elvis and our road trip playlist, and about our decision to GO!

Select photos are available on Etsy.

If you are interested in joining the mailing list, please message me.
Thanks for reading! Safe travels!

November 30: Mt. Carmel Junction, UT to Kayenta, AZ. Starting mileage: 39,425.

Best Friends Animal Society

Into Arizona

Monument Valley

Kayenta

December 1: Kayenta, AZ to Four Corners. Starting mileage: 39,700.

Another Photo Not Taken

Four Corners

Into Colorado

Thanks for reading!

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November 29: Bryce Canyon National Park. Starting mileage: 39,261.

Through Red Canyon and Dixie National Forest

Bryce Canyon

Sunset Point

Inspiration Point: 8,100 elevation

Bryce Point: 8,300 ft elevation

Fairview and Ponderosa Points

Rainbow Point: 9,115 ft. elevation

After Bryce Canyon

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November 28: Grand Canyon to Zion National Park. Starting mileage: 38,969.

Through Navajo Nation

Marble Canyon

Desert Landscape

Zion National Park

The Tunnel

The Scenic Zion Canyon

Zion Details

Good people

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November 8: Moab to Ogden, Utah. Starting mileage: 35,334.

Leaving Moab’s Desert

Americana in the Book Cliffs

Salt Lake City and the Great Salt Lake

November 9: Ogden, Utah to Nampa, Idaho. Starting mileage: 35,623.

Hey Idaho, where are the taters?!

November 10: Nampa, Idaho, through the northeast corner of Oregon, and on to Washington state. Starting mileage: 35,946.

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November 6: Grand Junction, CO to Moab, UT. Starting mileage 35,144.

Finding our Brand New Hotel

Doing Laundry on the Road

November 7: Arches National Park. Starting mileage 35,264.

National Parks

Arches National Park

A Day in Arches National Park

Walks, Lunch, and Taking Care of the Parks

At the end of the day

For more information:

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November 5: The Rocky Mountains. Starting mileage 34,885.

Seeing friends in Denver

Snowing on the roads ahead / Change of plans

Making new plans

Getting over the Rockies

The Rocky Mountains’ Western Slopes

Reassessing in Grand Junction

November 6: Grand Junction, CO to Moab, UT. Starting mileage 35,144.

Utah…Life Elevated!

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